fisherhahn
Member
I SOOO wish I paid the $8 for expedited shipping. I want to start playing! Thanks for those videos Keith very helpful.
Chinese Laser Engraver
- Thread starter mecompco
- Start date
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jsolie
Member
So has anyone tried the 1000mw version on Alumilite or PR yet? Did it actually engrave, or did the pen say "Nice try...better luck next time" to the laser?
Shane - You asked about sanding etc.: I sanded out to 600 grit, then applied one coat of Myland's Sanding Sealer, then sanded out to 600 grit again, repeated the cycle a second time, then burned with the laser engraver, then did 3 applications of Myland's friction polish without sanding in between - just "friction polishing" between coats at higher rpm with a Scott's shop towel (as usual):
Hope this clarifies it.
- Bob
Yes, perfectly clear now. Thank you Bob!
mecompco
Member
Just performed an experiment. Put an un-turned PR blank (PR from Woodnwhimsies) flat-side up in the engraver. At a burn speed of 60, which is plenty for wood, there were no results visible and the burn took about three minutes.
I then bumped the burn time all the way up. It took over 17 minutes. Yes, there is a very slight impression in the PR. Unless you know what it issupposed to be, you would probably be unable to read it.
So, I would say "no", 1W is not enough to engrave PR. I suspect Alumilite, acrylic, etc. would also not work.
Regards,
Michael
Turned Around
Member
Well now I'm curious what it would take. I'd like to be able to have something deep enough in PR and Alumilite to fill in with paint
40W CO2 laser to start. You're looking at around $350 investment in the machine for the Chinese ones and I've put about $200 into mine to make it what I would call usable.
But it burns and cuts acrylics, alumilite, pr, ebonite, wood, etc... like butter.
Turned Around
Member
Do you know of an example for one like the one you are using?
Eddie123
Member
Hey.
I am looking to maybe buy one of these. But I have a couple of questions, maybe someone here can asnwer :
On one of the ebay ads Ive found, it has some information, in Chinglish, so I am not sure if I understand it correctly. This it what it says :
Quote :
The difference between the Neje 300/500mW and the 1000mW :
300/500mW: High pixel, suitable for carving image at wood, bamboo, card etc.
1000mW: Higher energy, suitable for carving seals, PCB, leather, ivory, bubinga, paint metal etc.
So, does this mean that the 300 or 500mW will have a higher resolution than the 1000mW ? If so, will the lower watt machines be better suitable for pen engraving ?
Thank you
Vegard
I am looking to maybe buy one of these. But I have a couple of questions, maybe someone here can asnwer :
On one of the ebay ads Ive found, it has some information, in Chinglish, so I am not sure if I understand it correctly. This it what it says :
Quote :
The difference between the Neje 300/500mW and the 1000mW :
300/500mW: High pixel, suitable for carving image at wood, bamboo, card etc.
1000mW: Higher energy, suitable for carving seals, PCB, leather, ivory, bubinga, paint metal etc.
So, does this mean that the 300 or 500mW will have a higher resolution than the 1000mW ? If so, will the lower watt machines be better suitable for pen engraving ?
Thank you
Vegard
keithbyrd
Member
Carl,
I have one of those machines and it does cut nicely. However not being an engineer I struggle with some of the set ups and and sometimes takes 10-12 efforts to get the cut/burn in the correct alignment. Do you have any tricks/tips etc that you would be willing to share?
I have one of those machines and it does cut nicely. However not being an engineer I struggle with some of the set ups and and sometimes takes 10-12 efforts to get the cut/burn in the correct alignment. Do you have any tricks/tips etc that you would be willing to share?
mecompco
Member
I agree it is confusing, but from the examples given they all seem to do pretty much the same thing. I "suspect" that the main difference is in speed. All three of them use DVD drive mechanisms for the XY moves, so the maximum resolution (500 pixels X 500 pixels) would, I think, be the same. Remember that these burn each pixel one at a time.
I basically figured that for a few dollars more, 1W would be better that 500 or 300mW.
yes and yes but I really don't want to take over the OPs thread. Maybe we could spin up a new one to discuss the bigger machines.
I don't believe that is what they are saying. The 1000 should be just as good resolution as the smaller ones as long as you make sure your focal point is right. If your focal point is off, you will lose resolution no matter which power laser you are using.
mecompco
Member
Either way is fine with me! I'd like more info on the bigger engravers as well. It would be way cool to be able to do acrylic, etc.
Nick Rocco
Member
Carl,
I assume that you have the 40W Chinese laser that they sell on e-bay. If yes, do you know if it will run on Windows 10? I have not been able to get a good answer from some of the sellers.
Yes I have one and nope it does NOT work with Windows 10
I started with my main laptop which is Windows 10 thinking how bad could it be. Boy was I wrong. CorelDraw doesn't play well with Windows 10 and the CorelLaser Chinese software overlay that interfaces with the laser hasn't been confirmed to work on X6 or X7 which are the latest and greatest of CorelDraw.
I end up taking an older laptop and putting Windows 7 on and paid for CorelDraw X5 ($99) and now it works like a champ. The CorelDraw 12 that they give you on the disc is unstable and quite possibly an illegal bootleg.
BTW, I did spin up a new thread just so this one didn't go too far away from the original NEJE discussion.
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First impression
Well, I got mine a few days ago and did some quick testing. The instructions are a 1 page sheet with the specs and the location to get the software. IT will need 2 SB ports to connect to your PC (one for power, one for transferring the design).
My biggest issue was getting the software to download (my protection software had to be turned off to get it, and it still flags a Trojan virus has been blocked every time I run it). The interface is simple and it took almost no time to get the engraver up and running.
I set it up to engrave my name on a wooden blank and was surprised by how small a 16 point letter was. Bumping it up to 36 point was better, but still a little on the small size. I then took our logo and imported that in. I took about 5 minutes to engrave it (wasn't timing it, so could have been 3-7 minutes). When it was done, it was a very good representation of the design on the wood.
It comes with some sunglasses that you use to set the focus on the surface, but you should invest in some type of shield to use while it is running, especially if you are still using the computer it is hooked up to. I placed a folded piece of paper over the top and front and that was enough to keep me from seeing the laser in action.
Overall, I am pleased with the early results. I have not tried it on a round surface yet, but I think it will work just fine for small lettering.
Thanks
Well, I got mine a few days ago and did some quick testing. The instructions are a 1 page sheet with the specs and the location to get the software. IT will need 2 SB ports to connect to your PC (one for power, one for transferring the design).
My biggest issue was getting the software to download (my protection software had to be turned off to get it, and it still flags a Trojan virus has been blocked every time I run it). The interface is simple and it took almost no time to get the engraver up and running.
I set it up to engrave my name on a wooden blank and was surprised by how small a 16 point letter was. Bumping it up to 36 point was better, but still a little on the small size. I then took our logo and imported that in. I took about 5 minutes to engrave it (wasn't timing it, so could have been 3-7 minutes). When it was done, it was a very good representation of the design on the wood.
It comes with some sunglasses that you use to set the focus on the surface, but you should invest in some type of shield to use while it is running, especially if you are still using the computer it is hooked up to. I placed a folded piece of paper over the top and front and that was enough to keep me from seeing the laser in action.
Overall, I am pleased with the early results. I have not tried it on a round surface yet, but I think it will work just fine for small lettering.
Thanks
mecompco
Member
John, I turned my AVG anti-virus off for the install. Once installed, I let AVG remove the "Trojan" and the software continues to work. YMMV.
Regards,
Michael
Akula
Member
Following this thread, I ask now for those that have one of these setups, will they burn antler? I might have asked before because I have been thinking of this route for some time (memory not what it used to be 
)
)
mecompco
Member
Following this thread, I ask now for those that have one of these setups, will they burn antler? I might have asked before because I have been thinking of this route for some time (memory not what it used to be
I dunno, but I'll try it when I get home this afternoon and report back. Looking forward to the smell (not!).
Regards,
Michael
jsolie
Member
Thank you very much! Still waiting for mine to arrive.
pianomanpj
Member
Following this thread, I ask now for those that have one of these setups, will they burn antler? I might have asked before because I have been thinking of this route for some time (memory not what it used to be
I dunno, but I'll try it when I get home this afternoon and report back. Looking forward to the smell (not!).
Regards,
Michael
That will probably smell like a burning toenail. :bulgy-eyes:
Michael,
I was able to get it downloaded finally, and I just need to remember to have the AV software remove it next time I run. I added that just so people who get it know that it may take some work to get it up and running.
Bob in SF
Member
Clean Burn onto Polymer Clay
Nice clean burn onto (heat cured) copper metallic color Sculpey Premo polymer clay, rolled in a pasta roller to 3/64" thickness - opens up some nice possibilities.
I haven't tried uncured poly clay yet - but will (soon).
I burned this outside (noxious fumes):
- Bob
Nice clean burn onto (heat cured) copper metallic color Sculpey Premo polymer clay, rolled in a pasta roller to 3/64" thickness - opens up some nice possibilities.
I haven't tried uncured poly clay yet - but will (soon).
I burned this outside (noxious fumes):
- Bob
Attachments
Sylvanite
Member
[size=+1]DO NOT LASER ENGRAVE POLYMER CLAY![/size]
Polymer clay is composed of polyvinyl chloride (PVC) which is one of the materials one should never laser engrave. It releases corrosive and potentially toxic gasses, including hydrogen chloride. They can etch your laser's lens, rust the metal parts, and burn your lungs.
Avoid PVC!
Sincerely,
Eric
I agree. Always look into the makeup of what you are applying the laser to. There are several big NO GO materials that release toxic gasses that can be lethal.
PVC or anything that contains chloride is a huge red flag.
PVC or anything that contains chloride is a huge red flag.
Bob in SF
Member
Thanks, Eric and Carl - your thoughts are well taken and appreciated.
As noted, I burned it outside (and was not nearby).
I also cure my thin-rolled PVC in a toaster over (275 degrees, 7 min, depending on thickness) outside.
I certainly agree that closed space - and even well-ventilated spaces working with PVC and an array of other materials can be hazardous.
I'm grateful to hear that PVC-engraving can damage the engraver lens - did not know about that.
Best regards, and thanks again, Bob
PS: I also do my pyrography and airbrushing (with a good quality respirator mask) outside eg: Mom and Pop on the Prairie
Agree - stay safe
As noted, I burned it outside (and was not nearby).
I also cure my thin-rolled PVC in a toaster over (275 degrees, 7 min, depending on thickness) outside.
I certainly agree that closed space - and even well-ventilated spaces working with PVC and an array of other materials can be hazardous.
I'm grateful to hear that PVC-engraving can damage the engraver lens - did not know about that.
Best regards, and thanks again, Bob
PS: I also do my pyrography and airbrushing (with a good quality respirator mask) outside eg: Mom and Pop on the Prairie
Agree - stay safe
Attachments
Bill in Buena Park
Member
I've been following this thread, and this looks interesting to me. I don't see in the specs what the maximum thickness of material is that this will work on. I'm guessing from the Gearbest photos that an 1 to 1-1/4 inches may be the max, but would appreciate if anyone has this info or could test.
Thanks!
Thanks!
The test blank I used was close to 1" and there was still more room to go bigger and still focus the laser eye.
An on point article for those interested in lasers.
What's a Laser Engraver, and What Can You Do with One?
What's a Laser Engraver, and What Can You Do with One?
pianomanpj
Member
There have been some warnings about what NOT to cut with a laser, and there is a link to a comprehensive list on the page that Carl provided above. For the sake of ease, here's a direct link to that list: Laser Cutter Materials - ATXHackerspace
mecompco
Member
Following this thread, I ask now for those that have one of these setups, will they burn antler? I might have asked before because I have been thinking of this route for some time (memory not what it used to be
So, yes, antler seems to be no problem. Did this burn at "60". The lines are pretty thin in the graphic. More time would have made more of an impression. And yes, it does stink.
Turned Around
Member
Holy crap. want one more than ever now. soooooooo many hunter friends that have already bought a handful of my bolt action antler pens would love to get their name, cabin or land name on a pen
A quote from the article: "Finally, it should go without saying, but you should never put naked flesh in the path of the cutter's laser beam."
Well, there goes my idea of giving myself a laser engraved tattoo. Wonder if it is too late to cancel my order? ... :laugh::laugh:
low_48
Member
Following this thread, I ask now for those that have one of these setups, will they burn antler? I might have asked before because I have been thinking of this route for some time (memory not what it used to be
So, yes, antler seems to be no problem. Did this burn at "60". The lines are pretty thin in the graphic. More time would have made more of an impression. And yes, it does stink.
I've seen some engravings posted that I would not be able to charge for because of quality issues. This one doesn't appear to be successful to me, yet you claim no problem with antler. I'm confused?
wood-of-1kind
Member
Rich, we are talking about an $87 machine (laser). Temper expectations relative to "quality" results/price. As they say YMMV.
low_48
Member
So if you sell an engraved pen to a customer and they ask why some of the letters are missing, crooked, misshapen, or illegible, you can tell them it's because you used an $87 dollar laser and that's the best it can do. They'll say that's okay? I know these are experiments, but I don't understand the enthusiasm based on some of the results shown. If everything shown was perfect, heck I would plunk down the $87.
As I understand it, people are posting pictures of their testing results, not of "sale-able items." Michael acknowledged that the burn on the antler wasn't perfect, but was showing proof of concept that yes, it will burn just fine with this unit. He said he burned for 60 seconds, but that it would have been better if it went longer.
Personally I appreciate that so many people are willing to post results like this. It helps to minimize the fine tuning I will need to do once mine arrives.
mecompco
Member
Following this thread, I ask now for those that have one of these setups, will they burn antler? I might have asked before because I have been thinking of this route for some time (memory not what it used to be
So, yes, antler seems to be no problem. Did this burn at "60". The lines are pretty thin in the graphic. More time would have made more of an impression. And yes, it does stink.
I've seen some engravings posted that I would not be able to charge for because of quality issues. This one doesn't appear to be successful to me, yet you claim no problem with antler. I'm confused?
I grabbed the image, dropped it into the laser software and burned it. I did no adjustments to the image, no focusing of the laser, or tweaking of the burn time. This was simply a test to see if it would burn antler. Yes, it burned it successfully, and with some adjustments, I have no doubt I could have gotten "sellable" results.
Regards,
Michael
mecompco
Member
You've been turning pens for many years. How did your first pens turn out? I've probably spent an hour or two total with the engraver. Yes, there is a learning curve. :biggrin:
Regards,
Michael
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low_48
Member
Can't see how my turning skills and abilities compares to using a computer controlled machine. Missing and illegible text shouldn't take skills to correct. I've never seen that issue before with a laser engraver. That's my point. At this price point you really get what you pay for. For several hundred more, you'll get all the text that you have on the screen. You might still have a lot of issues with no support from the supplier, but you get all the letters burnt in if it fires. Maybe you guys are saying it's a celebration that it even fires? That should be a given if you buy something.
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