Bob in SF
Member
Hi Erik - I ordered mine last week (non-express) - should arrive this week - will post first efforts this weekend.
Best regards, Bob
Best regards, Bob
Chinese Laser Engraver
- Thread starter mecompco
- Start date
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mecompco
Member
Sorry I've not had much of a chance to experiment with mine yet--just got a laptop set up for the shop to run it. All I can say at this point is that it works, and was quite easy to set up. I plan to turn some hard wood spindles to test for the best font style/size on a curved surface. Will post as soon as I have results to share.
Regards,
Michael
Erik831
Member
Thanks for the reply. I'm not tech savvy, would it be hard to operate for someone like me?
mecompco
Member
I don't think you'd have a problem. You install the software that comes with the engraver, plug in the two USB cables and it is usable. You'll need some sort of image manipulation software. I use Photoshop Elements, but any would do.
I'm looking forward to having time to fine-tune my text engraving this weekend. I made a pen holder to sit on the bed this morning (drew it in Sketchup and printed it on the Makerbot Replicator).
low_48
Member
I don't think you'd have a problem. You install the software that comes with the engraver, plug in the two USB cables and it is usable. You'll need some sort of image manipulation software. I use Photoshop Elements, but any would do.
I'm looking forward to having time to fine-tune my text engraving this weekend. I made a pen holder to sit on the bed this morning (drew it in Sketchup and printed it on the Makerbot Replicator).
LOL Make your V block on a 3d replicator? That's a hoot! Didn't it take a few hours? I've done some assembled pens, and the clip can get in the way in a V block. I added a notch on one side to clear the clip. But, I made the block on that old fashioned table saw and used a chisel, of all things, to make the notch.
DigBaddy72
Member
I will be setting up for an "official" engraving later tonight. Haven't been active since Friday (threw my back out).
I like the V-block idea. I just use some folded paper towel to hold the rounded pen blank.
I like the V-block idea. I just use some folded paper towel to hold the rounded pen blank.
low_48
Member
Be careful placing paper around a laser burn, you might just end up with a fire! No need to lock it into the v, the weight of the blank does just fine. Unless these little machines get a little jerky.
chet0213
Member
has anyone had a chance to try these on an acrylic blank yet?
mecompco
Member
I don't think you'd have a problem. You install the software that comes with the engraver, plug in the two USB cables and it is usable. You'll need some sort of image manipulation software. I use Photoshop Elements, but any would do.
I'm looking forward to having time to fine-tune my text engraving this weekend. I made a pen holder to sit on the bed this morning (drew it in Sketchup and printed it on the Makerbot Replicator).
LOL Make your V block on a 3d replicator? That's a hoot! Didn't it take a few hours? I've done some assembled pens, and the clip can get in the way in a V block. I added a notch on one side to clear the clip. But, I made the block on that old fashioned table saw and used a chisel, of all things, to make the notch.
Ha ha, yeah, I could have done it old school. I did it on "company time". Took a few minutes to draw and an hour and a half to print. If the clip is a problem, I'll take the Dremel to it. :biggrin:
mecompco
Member
This unit is not rated for acrylic, and I'm pretty sure it won't work. Just messing around with it, I tried a Sharpie marker and it sort of worked, but I think acrylic is just too hard. I will try it, though, and share the results.
low_48
Member
Be careful running something like a sharpie in the laser. If it has a PVC body, you will be making chlorine gas. Highly corrosive and deadly! PVC= polyvinyl chloride
mecompco
Member
I think he meant coloring the blank with marker before lasing. One of the YouTube videos shows that technique with a what looks like a clear plastic container. Container probably styrene.
Bob in SF
Member
Mine arrived this afternoon - cute - simple setup and operation - won't have time to fiddle with it until this weekend - but pleased with first burn onto an unsanded 1/4" square dowel from Lowe's - not regretting purchase so far - has potential - pic:
Best regards - and will keep you posted - Bob
Best regards - and will keep you posted - Bob
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Erik831
Member
DigBaddy72
Member
Mine arrived this afternoon - cute - simple setup and operation - won't have time to fiddle with it until this weekend - but pleased with first burn onto an unsanded 1/4" square dowel from Lowe's - not regretting purchase so far - has potential - pic:
Best regards - and will keep you posted - Bob
Looking at the burning, I would suggest you play around with burn time and maybe fiddle with the focusing on the laser. I found that increasing or decreasing burn time can have an affect on how fine or blurred the burning ends up. I haven't done enough testing to say it is fact. But I have played around a bit. I have to get a pen engraved tonight for a client for tomorrow. I will be shooting a video on the whole thing and will have my son touch it up all purty like and put it on youtube.
Thanks for sharing your experience.
Bob in SF
Member
Keith - Thanks - fine tuning suggestions are most welcome.
Looking forward to your video.
- Bob
Looking forward to your video.
- Bob
Bob in SF
Member
Played with it a bit more - my logo, which I created in 1994, Adobe Illustrator - converted to jpeg, my name done in warped 36pt text and saved as jpeg - burned at normal speed into un-sanded basswood (after focusing better than the first try above) - total image is about the size of my thumbnail - should work as inlays on some wooden trumpet mutes that I'm making (will soon quick-turn and 600 grit-sand a few hardwood pen blanks and see how they work out):
- Bob
- Bob
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mecompco
Member
I, too, messed about with the engraver a bit today.
The first blank is pine. I first left it set to the default 60 burn time as shown by my name at the top. Then I cut the time in half to 30 and liked the results much better (all other burns are set to 30).
The second blank is walnut, just to try a harder wood. Left the burn time at 30.
Also tried one of my cast blanks, which did pretty much nothing.
I think this is going to look great on lighter woods (I'm thinking BOW and the like), as well as Bamboo pen boxes.
PS: This does make some smoke--not sure if that interferes with the laser or not. I'm thinking I'll mount a little computer fan to pull the smoke away. Oh, and I tried a piece of tan leather and had to bump the time back up to 60 to get a good image. It seems that some trial and error with various materials is par for the course to make the most of this device.
The first blank is pine. I first left it set to the default 60 burn time as shown by my name at the top. Then I cut the time in half to 30 and liked the results much better (all other burns are set to 30).
The second blank is walnut, just to try a harder wood. Left the burn time at 30.
Also tried one of my cast blanks, which did pretty much nothing.
I think this is going to look great on lighter woods (I'm thinking BOW and the like), as well as Bamboo pen boxes.
PS: This does make some smoke--not sure if that interferes with the laser or not. I'm thinking I'll mount a little computer fan to pull the smoke away. Oh, and I tried a piece of tan leather and had to bump the time back up to 60 to get a good image. It seems that some trial and error with various materials is par for the course to make the most of this device.
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Bob in SF
Member
Michael - Followed your lead and found that both time and smoke matter -
30 speed on the left is too faint and has a "smoke cloud"
45 speed (name only, without logo) is crisper and cloud-free thanks to a little fan
The initial 60 speed on the right is too dark.
Conclusion for this episode: speed 45 with fan.
- Bob
30 speed on the left is too faint and has a "smoke cloud"
45 speed (name only, without logo) is crisper and cloud-free thanks to a little fan
The initial 60 speed on the right is too dark.
Conclusion for this episode: speed 45 with fan.
- Bob
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I am curious about this working on steel, as there seems to be mixed and conflicting information available.
Do any of you current owners have the ability/willingness to test this? If it does work, that will definitely seal the deal for me.
Do any of you current owners have the ability/willingness to test this? If it does work, that will definitely seal the deal for me.
low_48
Member
If someone does this test, for God's sake WEAR LASER PROTECTION GLASSES. You'll be bouncing a laser beam around the room! My 25 watt will NOT etch steel, unless I use Cermark coating. Then it is just a coating on the surface.
Bob in SF
Member
Getting there - quickly (and partially) turned this hard wood blank (on a 7mm tube) - sanded with 600 grit - Lithos Pro 48pt typeface in Photoshop, saved as jpeg - burned at a speed of 60 with a little fan blowing smoke away:
- Bob
(for $87.00, it works surprisingly well)
- Bob
(for $87.00, it works surprisingly well)
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mecompco
Member
Getting there - quickly (and partially) turned this hard wood blank (on a 7mm tube) - sanded with 600 grit - Lithos Pro 48pt typeface in Photoshop, saved as jpeg - burned at a speed of 60 with a little fan blowing smoke away:
- Bob
(for $87.00, it works surprisingly well)
Bob, that looks nice. The fan seems to make a big difference. I agree with you, I'm happy with the device for the modest cost.
I'll be interested to see how the engraving looks under a finish. Time permitting, I'll make up a couple of pens to test this weekend.
Bob in SF
Member
1st hardwood slimline - burned outside since there was a nice breeze for smoke relief (obvious benefit of burn-anywhere portability) at a speed of 60 after sanding to 600 grit followed by 2 applications of Myland's Sanding Sealer. Finish = 3 applications of Myland's High Friction Polish. So far, so good - and grateful to Michael for starting this thread:
Best regards - Bob
(more tests ahead this weekend)
Best regards - Bob
(more tests ahead this weekend)
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KCW
Member
Got mine last night, can't wait to get it up and running! I know, I know, some people want to beat this thing to death, because it isn't a $5000 laser, but for something I can afford, it looks to do a decent job. I don't believe that it has to be all or nothing, why not start with a bargain basement machine and see where it takes me. If I had to wait until I had 5 grand, to start, I would never start!
1st hardwood slimline - burned outside since there was a nice breeze for smoke relief (obvious benefit of burn-anywhere portability) at a speed of 60 after sanding to 600 grit followed by 2 applications of Myland's Sanding Sealer. Finish = 3 applications of Myland's High Friction Polish. So far, so good - and grateful to Michael for starting this thread:
Best regards - Bob
(more tests ahead this weekend)
That looks awesome!
Just to be clear, did you burn THEN sand and finish... or did you sand to 600, apply 2 layers of finish, and then burn?
mecompco
Member
Bob, you're welcome, and thanks for sharing your experiments. I think that pen looks awesome.
No, this won't do what a $5K engraver will, but for the cost of two or three bags of groceries, I think it's well worth the price.
I think this will be a great way to easily add value to wooden pens, not to mention boxes, etc. I also plan on making customized wooden tags for my pens for the upcoming show season.
Regards,
Michael
No, this won't do what a $5K engraver will, but for the cost of two or three bags of groceries, I think it's well worth the price.
I think this will be a great way to easily add value to wooden pens, not to mention boxes, etc. I also plan on making customized wooden tags for my pens for the upcoming show season.
Regards,
Michael
Turned Around
Member
which one have you guys been ordering? the link that was initially posted takes me to a model that you configure before adding it to the cart.
mecompco
Member
This one: NEJE DK-8-KZ 1000mW Laser Engraver Printer-97.41 and Free Shipping| GearBest.com
$87.99 with free standard shipping, an extra $8.00 for expedited.
Turned Around
Member
OK, for some reason I thought you guys were getting the open looking frame design with the 2500mW laser.
DigBaddy72
Member
mecompco
Member
Keith, that came out great! Did you rotate the blank for the second line?
Regards,
Michael
mecompco
Member
I think most of us have gone for the 1W version. It's kinda weird that all the versions 300mW, 500mW, 1W, and even the 2.5W versions list the same materials that they will burn. I've no idea what the actual difference it. I went for the 1W version as it was only a few bucks more than the 300 and 500 versions.
From what I've seen you really have to get into the higher Wattage versions to do do acrylic and the like (and REALLY high Wattage to do metal) with MUCH higher price tags. I think the biggest advantage of the 2.5W version would be the larger table. The one we have will only do 38mm X 38mm (500 pixel X 500 pixel) images. Big enough for pens!
You've got to hand it to the Chinese, they took a DVD drive innards, hot-glued a laser head to it and made a laser engraver that works.
I'd love to have a high-powered engraver, but being on a rather restricted budget, this one will suffice.
Regards,
Michael
Bob in SF
Member
Shane - You asked about sanding etc.: I sanded out to 600 grit, then applied one coat of Myland's Sanding Sealer, then sanded out to 600 grit again, repeated the cycle a second time, then burned with the laser engraver, then did 3 applications of Myland's friction polish without sanding in between - just "friction polishing" between coats at higher rpm with a Scott's shop towel (as usual):
Hope this clarifies it.
- Bob
Hope this clarifies it.
- Bob
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DigBaddy72
Member
Finally got the Video how-to posted!
THE VIDEO IS UP!!
Finally got around to making a rough how to video on how I use the Chinese laser engraver. My son helped to add the background music and spliced all my mini movies into one video. Because of YouTube limitations I had to break the video into two parts.
Part one is here: https://youtu.be/-ArDaMiy2O0
Part two is here: https://youtu.be/8spPwkeHBRk
I also give IAP permission to add this to the Library if they find it worthy enough.
ANy issues or questions or suggestions, feel free to hit me up on YouTube, Facebook, or even here on private message.
THE VIDEO IS UP!!
Finally got around to making a rough how to video on how I use the Chinese laser engraver. My son helped to add the background music and spliced all my mini movies into one video. Because of YouTube limitations I had to break the video into two parts.
Part one is here: https://youtu.be/-ArDaMiy2O0
Part two is here: https://youtu.be/8spPwkeHBRk
I also give IAP permission to add this to the Library if they find it worthy enough.
ANy issues or questions or suggestions, feel free to hit me up on YouTube, Facebook, or even here on private message.
DigBaddy72
Member
I did rotate manually. Eyeballing it all the way. Was VERY nervous about the second line. I explain it pretty good in the video.
Bob in SF
Member
Nice pointers in the videos, Keith - I like your use of the keyboard arrows and top-viewing to improve alignment.
- Bob
- Bob
DigBaddy72
Member
Thanks Bob. A nice improvement to the frame would be to use some kind of clear plexiglass to make alignment that much easier.
I really can't wait to what others have done with this engraver.
Thank YOU for posting the pre-finish and post-finish results of your engraving. I've been meaning to see how that turns out and I really like your results. I can see that engraving before finishing and then lightly sanding cleans up the details in the text a bit better.
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PapaTim
Member
If someone has the larger version (1600mw and up) could you answer a question please. I know the printing area is relatively small but how about the size of the piece you engrave. For example could you put something like a cutting board or the lid of a box under the larger units to engrave someone's name on it?