Spirals

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2005222173141_spiralctr Model (1).jpg
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Bruce:
I'm not a machinist, but, it's my unserstanding that a knurling tool does it's thing by displacing metal rather than removing it. The Sorby tool removes the wood.

Since you are the machinist, go by Highland Hardware or your local Woodcraft on Holcombe Bridge Road and check the Sorby tool out. I have every confidence that with your obvious aptitude and a CNC machine, you could make these things and improve on the design, functionality and ease of use. Then we can all buy a Boone Spiralling tool. Additionally, I believe you could make the concept work in conjunction with the CNC and do wonders in both wood and metal.

I know you need more things to fill all that spare time you have. Glad I can be of assistance.[:D]
 
Yes, I certainly appreciate that Fred! [:D] I've been working for the last few days straight and my number of rings has only gotten larger! Calgon, take me away!

Paul, your machine looks somewhat similar to what I had in mind. I found that on my Dremel, the plastic tip comes off, exposing some threads, so the whole Dremel tool can screw down to the nut block and can be held much closer in to the pen axis, so it should be stiffer that way.
 
Paul--the software for loading pics into posts only allows .jpg files up to 90kb and the filename must not include special characters, like the parentheses.
 
Unless I've severely misjudged you, you're gonna be kicked back in that tub of Calgon (or more probably sweatin' in the shop) and those little spiral making gears are gonna be turning in your noggin figurin' ways to do funky things on pen barrels with all of these ideas in this thread.[:p][:p][:p][:D]
 
Originally posted by btboone
<br />Yes, I certainly appreciate that Fred! [:D] I've been working for the last few days straight and my number of rings has only gotten larger! Calgon, take me away!

Paul, your machine looks somewhat similar to what I had in mind. I found that on my Dremel, the plastic tip comes off, exposing some threads, so the whole Dremel tool can screw down to the nut block and can be held much closer in to the pen axis, so it should be stiffer that way.
Click to expand...
I kinda thought this was close to what you had thought about. The threads on the end of the dremel are odd sized. I made a tap for one to try to screw it into some aluminum on an old patern for a pantograph from a 50's Popular Mechanics project. May have to dig it out and check it. Have to figure out a depth adjustment of some sort.
 
Came across this link from YoYoSpin's Pikes Peak Woodturners Club page (http://www.yoyospin.com/ppw/how.html), and thought it was interesting. I wonder if something like this might not work for our purposes. Just need to get different thread ratios. Obviously, it will give you the 8TPI look, if you like it. Maybe having the handle also pull the cutter in closer as the blank is pushed forward would accomplish this?

http://www.jeanmichel.org/thread.htm
 
Hi Paul---Not sure if you're referring to my 2 layer spiral pens. If so, I take the first layer of pen blanks and turn them evenly a little over the size of the bushings. Then I drill the 2nd layer to fit over the first blanks and glue them on. Then I do my spiral layout and cut by hand with a rasp.
 
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