What is your favorite stabilization medium?

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Fiberglass resin, when mixed to cure properly, sets up too fast for stabilization I'd believe. Most will begin to set in 5-15 minutes. That is unless someone knows of a slow setting hardener. Also, this type of resin isn't clear, at least most that I have used in automotive work isn't.
 
Ok so i was not so detailed in my description. Yes i would check the flash point of the liquid/ solvent being used and i wasnot going to heat it directly on a hot plate. I would use a waterbath and according to the article that guy used boiling water. Thats 212 degrees also the flashpoint for any solvent will most likely be lower in a vaccum. The aceatone method boils off the aceatone fast. I do believe that heat is the key. I dont want to blow up either. I have not found any liquid that will penetrate verry far into a blank that doesnot stay liquid or soft in the center.
 
Gadget,

I read and used that article. As noted above, I used hot water as he recommended. I used a heavy duty canning jar. If you must try this method, one that I personally consider foolish, be sure to wear full face mask protection. Also remember that pen blanks are usually a bit thicker than knife scales.
 
Also remember that pen blanks are usually a bit thicker than knife scales.
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Good point Cav(what are you doing up so early?oops I forgot, Switzerland time[;)])
Stabilized knife scale are sold as 3/8ths inch thick pieces.From teh ones I have seen they seem to be much harder than the stabilized pen blanks I Have seen.Is this because the penetration of the solution is because they are thinner?HMMMMMMMMMM?

Here is what I have figured out after 2 years of stabilizing with acetone and plexi, with hand bleeder pumps and the $10.00 venturi pump from HF.
1.I won't get a piece of wood that is the same compareable hardness as a commercial set up.(I am not in the business of stabilizing woods I would rather spend the bulk of my time making blanks and turning pens)
I initially got into stabilizing for a less expensive alternative to CA for my corn cob pens and the aacetone plexi filled that bill.
I have since found other uses for my acetone plexi method and the biggest benifit is the process changes the properties of some woods that allows me to use certain species for my blanks and it makes glue ups easier, but the woods themselves would turn just fine without the process and stabilizing them with CA would be far simpler and faster.

2.For the most part, even a commercially stabilized blank will need a finish.It is NOT 100% plastic no matter what anyoneone claims.They may shine like a newborn babies butt after polishing but will lose that shine in short time.

3.I use my stabilizing process as a convenience but it does not preclude the use of sharp tools and the use of CA.
There is no panacea in a home stabilizing set up.
The process of finding the correct combination of solution and technique is time consuming.If your goal is to duplicate a process that is alredy available and enjoy the pursuit of tinkering with it, GO FOR IT and I hope for your success.
I for one have found what works for me, realize its' limitaions and am happy with my results.
 
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