Very thin kerf blade question

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leehljp

leehljp

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Even before the "Eagle" post, I have been researching (in Japan) for very thin kerfs (circular saw blades) for the purpose of celtic knots and the kind of kerf inlays similar to that post seen here!

Does anyone have a US link for very thin circular saw blades? I have searched and was not able to get anything on Google.

In Japan, I can get 1.3mm circular saw blades. I started experimenting with celtic knots last month and I wanted the thinnest saw blade that I could find, which is the 1.3mm (.051 in). I saw the post on "Eagle" where Darley, (I think) shows his bandsaw blade thickness as .021).

Second question: Are there smooth cutting band saw blades in thin kerf?

I retire in about 3 years and If I can't get very thin kerf circular saw blades in the US, I will want to take a "rest of lifetime" supply of very thin kerf blades back with me to the States.

I have a bandsaw, but it is the regular vertical kind. The one that Darley had makes me re-think the cutoff bandsaw. It has GREAT possibilites for inlays by making thin kerfs with non-thru cuts.
 
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Lee,

I believe (and I might be mistaken) Eagle uses Dremel scrollsaw on some of his work and last post I read about it (elsewhere), he mentioned using a 0.010" thick blade on some of his detail work. He is looking for a 0.005" thick blade now [:D][:0]

If you are interested in contacting him, let me know...I have his email.
 
for ripping
http://www.amazon.com/Freud-D0724X-Diablo-24-Tooth-Framing/dp/B00006407Q
for crosscut
http://www.amazon.com/Diablo-D0740X-40-Tooth-Carded-Finishing/dp/B00008WQ2H

The kerf on both is .067
 
Lee, 1.3mm is THIN! The older Diablos (like Eagle uses) are a bit thinner than the new Diablos, but I believe they are substantially thicker than that. If I wanted a blade that thin, I'd buy them in bulk before coming back here since I haven't seen anything that thin advertised.
 
The important thing of course is that the kerf must match exactly to the piece you want to stick in it's place or the celtic knot won't work. If you have a particular thickness material that you want to use, then that is the blade you need. Having an ultra thin blade won't help if it's thinner than the material. [8D]
I have a 1.3mm kerf blade and can't find any material to match it properly[:(]
 
Skiprat,

Laminations are your friend. Several pieces of colored paper. Several layers of aluminum can side. Mix. Credit card plus aluminum can side and or paper. Etc.

I need to order a Diablo blade!

The other possibility for really thin kerfs are those "micro table saws" Woodcraft sells. http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?FamilyID=4905

GK
 
How about these?? If I read it right the kerf is .0156



Proxxon Micromot Micro Table Saw Blades

Optional Saw Blades for Micro Table Saw KS115 Tungsten Carbide Saw Blade
2" (40mm) Dia. x 1/64" (,5mm) thick, 13/32" (10mm) Bore, fine toothed, 80 teeth. The blade is ideal for cutting fiberglass sheets, non-ferrous metal, miniature moldings. plastics and other difficult to cut materials.
Item 28011

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Diamond Blade
2" (40mm) Dia. x 1/64" (,5mm) thick, 13/32" (10mm) Bore. This blade is ideal for cutting fiberglass and ceramics.
Item 28012

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Crosscut Super Cut Saw Blade
One included with the saw. 2-9/32" (58mm) Dia. x 1/64" (,4mm) thick, 13/32" (10mm) Bore, fine toothed, 80 teeth. Ideal for use on hard and soft wood, as well as plastic. For fast clean cuts. The 80 teeth are alternately set and sharpened. For superior cutting power.
Item 28014

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Carbide Tipped Saw Blade
2" (40mm) Dia. x 1/64" (,5mm) thick, 13/32" (10mm) Bore, 10 teeth. The blade is great for cutting hard and soft woods, aluminum and circuit boards.
Item 28016

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HSS Saw Blade
2" (40mm) Dia. x 1/64" (,5mm) thick, 13/32" (10mm) Bore, fine toothed, 100 teeth. The blade is ideal for fine precision cuts in non-ferrous metal (aluminum, brass, copper). wood and plastic.
Item 28020

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IF you are looking at a micro saw, TEST it first on the material you want to cut. I used one for stained glass zinc and copper, NO power. Wouldn't come CLOSE to cutting wood, let alone HARD wood.
 
Others have emailed me. The proxxon has a maximum depth of cut of 7/8" and you would need a sled to use it which would eat up some of that depth. They also said its kerf is 1/16" or .0625".

http://www.freud-tools.com/freudd0diabf.html
If you scroll down to the 7&1/4 inch blades you will see the kerf listed as .059.

Your best bet is just a standard table saw with a good blade and a good sled. Vacuum sled is safest. http://www.davidreedsmith.com/Articles/VacuumRipFence/VacuumRipFence.htm#Vacuum%20Rip%20Fence

GK
[edit] oops looks like Nolan has better info on the Proxxon blade widths. Depth of cut is still an issue though.
 
If you have a real need .02" is the smallest. I have the thickness sander, better built then Proxxon.

http://www.byrnesmodelmachines.com/tablesaw.html
 
Machinists use slitting saws that are available in very thin blades. These normally are designed to operate on a lathe, mill or a separate tool rest device. The standard one for my microlathe is a 2 1/2 diameter by 0.032 blade. They do come thinner. At these thicknesses, we are "machining wood" and the wood needs to have increasing uniformity and consistency. Most come without any sort of table and accessories so look for metal working skills to keep thickness to a minimum.

Minature work is done on these scales on a pretty regular basis.
 
I use diamond blades from http://www.dadsrockshop.com/blades.html I havn't cut wood with them, but they work well with metals, stone and all of the plastic blanks. Thinest kerf on the 4" blades is 0.008"
 
Thanks for all of the input. Ron, I could live with a 1/16 inch just fine.

Two months ago, I bought the cheapest 6 in circular saw that I could find (in Japan) with an cast aluminum base rather than a stamped steel base and made a "hobby" saw with a 12 in square table. Then I made a sled. That thing is VERY accurate and tracks perfectly, but just a little stiff in sliding. It is still in the experimenting stage.

I made the base out of some 3/8 plexiglass and the sled is made out of 1/4 cabinet grade ply. This eats up some blade depth. I needed to cut some 2 in for my duck calls but it only went to 1 7/8. It was so accurate that I flipped the Duck Call blank over and finished the cut prefectly.

I picked up some 1/8 in sheet aluminum today and will carry it back to Japan with me to start hobby saw version 2. In Japan 12 in sq 1/8 in thick alum. costs about $60. I got three times that today (as scrap )for free at a sign shop here in Greenville TX - visiting my daughter.

After I get back to Japan, I plan on getting a higher quality saw and starting my second "hobby saw" similar to a Proxxon, only with a larger blade and greater depth of cut. Also in the plans are an adjustable angle bracket that will allow me to put kerfs similar to what Eagle did. I have tried that already and was able to do that, but there was one problem - I need an adjustment screw to move the blank consistently for each cut.

Another purpose of this saw (actually the first purpose in making and experimenting with it) is to make celtic knots with different angles and make them consistent and perfect as possible. I learned on the very first one - on the second cut that <b> the kerf and celtic insert MUST be the same.</b> [:o)][B)]

I hope to get started on this in mid June but have quite a bit of traveling to do once I get back. Could be mid to late August before I get version 2 of the saw made.

I can buy different kerf thicknesses and get different results. But I already see that thinner kerfs allow more variations. There are places that thick does well, but I am looking for thin ones.

Thanks everyone for your input. I am keeping this link on hand.
 
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