Turning between centers - another way

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I was just informed that there is another thread where folks are having dead centers made and I don't want to step on any toes so I will refer anyone interested in having centers made to: http://www.penturners.org/forum/show...ht=dead+center

I was really just doing this as a favor for those with no means to make their own rather than start a little dead center making operation. :)

Thanks for understanding.
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I thought he was doing just the dead centers? I am looking for the steb drive as well. If he is doing both then I guess I can wait for a few more months to get them from him.
 
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I don't think your stepping on toes. No offense to Paul, but we know he's busy enough with his Vise list and now the pen press. I think he should just focus on those.
 
Texatdurango said:
I was just informed that there is another thread where folks are having dead centers made and I don't want to step on any toes so I will refer anyone interested in having centers made to: http://www.penturners.org/forum/showthread.php?t=55016&highlight=dead+center

I was really just doing this as a favor for those with no means to make their own rather than start a little dead center making operation. :)

Thanks for understanding.
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Hey, I wear steel toed boots, so step away! Actually, all I did was volunteer to turn down a carbide tipped center to see if it could be done and what it would take. Got it done, and may do another, but with my vises and presses, I don't do well keeping those in line let alone adding another project. I will be trying something soon on a center project, but that is on the back burner at the moment. So turn away, George, and thanks.
 
George,

Thanks for the awesome tutorial.

When you have time can you include the steps you take to buff it up. I'm sick of going through micromesh and making a mess over the lathe with the slury build up. Looking to purchase a buffing wheel soon....already ordered Johnny's bushings for TBC operations and can't wait to get off the mandrel blues.
 
barrysj said:
Thanks for the awesome tutorial.

When you have time can you include the steps you take to buff it up. I'm sick of going through micromesh and making a mess over the lathe with the slury build up. Looking to purchase a buffing wheel soon....already ordered Johnny's bushings for TBC operations and can't wait to get off the mandrel blues.
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I'm in the process of working up a little tutorial on making a cap for a kitless pen. It will be acrylic so I'll be sure and include some buffing sequences rather than just end it at the sanding stage.

In the mean time if you didn't catch it, I started a thread about buffing supplies a few weeks ago; http://www.penturners.org/forum/showthread.php?t=55476. It's not a step by step type discussion, rather a discussion on different things that can make a difference with your buffing.

I always believe there is room to go outside the realm of "pen turning" supplies. White diamond buffing compound is a perfect example, it's a middle of the road buffing compound just a few notches up from fine sand paper never intended to produce a lustrous shine like a fine plastic polishing compound does but it's all we know because it's all the pen making supply companies sell us. Buffing wheels are the same, we apply very fine scratches with the junk buffing wheels we are sold then complain that buffing doesn't work.
 
Hi,

Nice tutorial!

Just curious before having a go! Do you ever have any problem with rounding the blank over slightly at the ends, mainly when sanding either with or without the finish? Just I know most kits look better with a crisp joint between barrel and part and didnt know if you use a block or just the sandpaper in hand?

Cheers PHIL
 
philbaldwin said:
Hi,

Nice tutorial!

Just curious before having a go! Do you ever have any problem with rounding the blank over slightly at the ends, mainly when sanding either with or without the finish? Just I know most kits look better with a crisp joint between barrel and part and didnt know if you use a block or just the sandpaper in hand?

Cheers PHIL
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Actually I keep a diamond sharpening card near my lathe and will quite often use it, laying the sanding paper against the back side but more often than not, will just use the folded sandpaper strips.
 
I think I need to start using a caliper to check measurements after finishing. I'm building up too much of a finish, and not skewing or sanding it down enough, and my finish is a bit proud of the hardware.

Any other tips for getting a perfect fit after finishing?
 
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turbowagon said:
I think I need to start using a caliper to check measurements after finishing. I'm building up too much of a finish, and not skewing or sanding it down enough, and my finish is a bit proud of the hardware.

Any other tips for getting a perfect fit after finishing?
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I don't know about a perfect fit but have learned one thing. I used to write the pen part dimensions on the instruction sheet so I would know the EXACT dimensions when using calipers to check the blank(s).

That all ceased when I learned that many kit tolerances are horrible. A part could be .512" in one kit and .514" in another. So now when I do a pen, I lay out the parts and check them instead of assuming they will be a certain diameter!
 
Very Cool method. I have not gotten a chance to read through the whole thread yet but i am working on it. If you already covered these i am sorry for asking
So to try this i need to part that goes into the headstock and special bushings?

where did you get the tool rest and lathe drilling supplies
 
Texatdurango said:
That all ceased when I learned that many kit tolerances are horrible. A part could be .512" in one kit and .514" in another. So now when I do a pen, I lay out the parts and check them instead of assuming they will be a certain diameter!
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George; Yes! Especially the cigar style pens are all over the place depending on the supplier. I have had bushings and pen fittings differ by .018

With a digital caliper, set the caliper on the fitting and press the "Zero" button. Now the caliper will show how much material you need to remove to make a perfect fit (plus finish).
 
I' personally take the bare wood about 0.007-0.010" past the hardware diameter. Then, I build up a finish 0.010-0.015" larger than the finished diameter. Once I get to about 0.007" from final diameter, I go into my final sanding routine with MM. That gets me close enough that you can't feel the transition. If you're going to be off, the worst thing you can do is to be short of the final diameter. Better to be 0.008" larger than 0.004" too small.

P.S. these are for a CA finish. I find that whan I'm doing acrylics, I have to start final sanding aroun 0.010", as it's a bit softer and will reduce facter than the CA.
 
Great tutorial

I lookied at the tutorial and that did help, I am just getting into turning between centers. That was one of the better tutorial I have viewed so far.
 
RyanNJ said:
Very Cool method. I have not gotten a chance to read through the whole thread yet but i am working on it. If you already covered these i am sorry for asking
So to try this i need to part that goes into the headstock and special bushings?

where did you get the tool rest and lathe drilling supplies
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You can get the dead center and bushings from JohnnyCNC, who also offers a very high quality short tool rest. Rherrel also offers a very nice rest too.

As for lathe drilling, there is a tutorial that should show you ever thing you will ever need to know. You can find that tutorial here: http://content.penturners.org/articles/2009/lathedrilling.pdf


Hope this can help.
 
Great tutorial -- I think I will try this soon as I keep getting a random problem going out of round with the mandrel. It drives me nuts. I can never seem to track down what the issue is, this looks like a great method to use to get rid of that problem.
 
Wow!!
I'm impressed...
Just 1 question (at least right now)... when you were measuring your blank with your calipers... how did you know what diameter you needed to have (the final diameter)? What do you compare it to on the kit?
 
jbeyer said:
Wow!!
I'm impressed...
Just 1 question (at least right now)... when you were measuring your blank with your calipers... how did you know what diameter you needed to have (the final diameter)? What do you compare it to on the kit?
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I measure the mating kit components to get their diameters, at the point where the blank touches the kit component. Notice I didn't say measure the bushings, that's because from one kit to another, the actual diameters can vary as much as several thousandths.

In the past I would measure the bushings and just have the dimensions written down for reference, then one day I turned the blank to the bushing dimension only to find I had a mismatch because the kit part was a little fatter (probably a plating buildup), only a few thousandths but when the blank is undersized it's very noticable!
 
Tried to order a pen pal today, they are not being made any more BUT they may get some in in a few months. They have a waiting list.:redface:
 
Padre said:
Tried to order a pen pal today, they are not being made any more BUT they may get some in in a few months. They have a waiting list.:redface:
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I contacted them six months ago telling them that they could easily sell a hundred or more of these things just here on the forum let alone elsewhere and that was their story back then. Looks like they have other concerns rather than fixing their equipment. I would look elsewhere!

Seems like I recently saw someone making and selling something similar here on the forum, made from acrylic, might look around the classifieds.
 
Great tutorial, thanks for all of your hard work. I have one question though, can you do this on acrylics also or is it just for wood.

This may have been already asked and answered and I missed it.

Thanks again!:eek:
 
Exceptional tutorial!

I just wanted to thank you for your exceptional tutorial on between centers turning. I have used a mandrel in the past, but now I want to step up my game. I am hoping to learn all I need to know regarding between centers turning, by articles such as this shared by seasoned professionals on these forums. I'd love to get three or four good recommendations on the best sources for bushings, live, and dead centers, and anything else related to turning out the highest quality turnings I possibly can.
Once again, thanks for sharing your experience. I learn best with pictures, which makes your tutorial that much more appealing to me.
 
Texatdurango said:
Padre said:
Tried to order a pen pal today, they are not being made any more BUT they may get some in in a few months. They have a waiting list.:redface:
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I contacted them six months ago telling them that they could easily sell a hundred or more of these things just here on the forum let alone elsewhere and that was their story back then. Looks like they have other concerns rather than fixing their equipment. I would look elsewhere!

Seems like I recently saw someone making and selling something similar here on the forum, made from acrylic, might look around the classifieds.
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Member cnccutter has been selling these: http://www.penturners.org/forum/f164/2012-thumb-square%A9-shipping-sale-101106/



Ken
 
Wow George all these years later this is still going. You did do a good job on this. Hope you still reading once in a while.

Lin.
 
..and still this thread lives:)

I am just getting in to turning and initially plan on mainly pens and brushes. My original plan was to use a mandrel but after finding this excellent tutorial I have decided to go the TBC route from the outset.

I watched a couple of JohnnyCnC videos on You Tube last night but it seems he has no website any longer to order parts from.

I have printed the article out and saved the pdf for my ongoing reference. For some reason the images will not show in my browser at work or at home.:mad:

I plan on getting a 60degree LC/DC for my lathe as soon as I can locate a RELIABLE supplier - there are plenty around but it is not always apparent that they are carbide tipped nor how accurate they are made.

Many thanks for taking the time to share your process

Alan
 
Try double clicking the "paperclip" on the main page and then click the "minimize" button on your browser and there should be links with the pics. Hope this helps :biggrin:

Rod
 
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RKB said:
Try double clicking the "paperclip" on the main page and then click the "minimize" button on your browser and there should be links with the pics. Hope this helps :biggrin:

Rod
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Thank you for this tip. I had no idea that could be done if the pics didn't show up!
 
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