Tail Stock DRO

[joefyffe]

Danny: Further research would tell you, these can also be purchased in 24" lengths. It wouldn't take but two (not six) for your 40" axis. Simple math will make it obvious the cross slide could be handled with one 12" which is also available. So, that's only four displays instead of one. That gives you three extra places to hang lights next Christmas!! :wink: It's just kinda like my daddy used to say about the man that kissed the cow. Everyone to their own notion. I'm pleased that your satisfied with your unit and it seems as though the participants on this thread are satisfied with ours.

And if you look at my post I wasn't stating any thing about what folks should get, or how one is better, but just giving information of another type of unit, yes its more, but it's more for a reason, and it's also more compact, and easier to mount since from the picture it looks like the scale is large on that grizzly unit.

It helps to know what is out there when ya buy something.

Guess it all depends on what your going to use that machine for, I dont turn pens on my metal lathe that often don't see the need to. I machine other items, and do a little gun smithing on the side. along with some small production runs of parts from time to time.

You want to compare I have DRO on my machines at the machine shop that run in the thousands, and I use a $600.00 unit on my home machine (which was $575.00 and is 3 axis not 2). But I'm not holding tollerances of plus-minus .00025" at home.

Take my statements any way you want, just trying to educate about other options.

Maybe some want to advance from the hobbiest side to something beyond that at some time or another.

O.K.

 

[Paul in OKC]

DRO's are great on metal lathes. I had them at my old shop, they will spoil you. The thing to think about is usable travel distance. A 12" lathe will not need a 12" scale, you are only working generally on a little more than half that, and a 40" bed could get by with about a 24" scale. Just thoughts for reference. I had a 60" lathe and put a 48" scale on it and never ran out of travel. Things are not usually run full length of the bed, and the tail stock takes up some room at the end.

 

[Gilrock]

I think a couple different questions were being asked or argued here. One was why do we need DRO's at all....and the other was why do we need a tailstock DRO. I've seen the suggestion about drilling using the carriage in this thread and another thread and no offense to the suggestion but I don't like that idea....not saying I will never try it. But I'm already going over in my head all the alignment issues of centering the drill bit when placing the drill chuck in a tool holder clamped into a QCTP. My QCTP is famous for getting rotated if my tool digs in when parting steel. So I would have to worry about rotational alignment of my QCTP and lateral alignment of the cross slide each time I wanted to drill. Plus if I'm drilling anything denser than aluminum I'm not sure I want to be doing that with a moving carriage assembly. Justin if I had you're lathe it might not be a problem but my lathe is not as solid as yours.

 

[jd99]

Gil:

Thats a very good point, the stability of the lathe will come into play, the lathe I have and I'm sure justin's lathe are very solid machines, I have even used my boring bar holder to hold endmills to do counterbores in parts on my lathe before.

I personaly don't see the requirement for a DRO on a tail stock, I know the vernier scale on my tail stock is good to at least .005" to .010" , if I need to control the depth of a hole closer then that I would bore the hole either on the lathe or set it up on the mill.

For me I know I would keep hitting the DRO scale if it was on the front of my tail stock sticking out like that and eventually knock it out of calibration or break it some how, but that's just me I put tools and items on top of my tail stock all the time, I even have a platform on the top of mine where I store my tool holders for my tool post, when I'm turning. Or my Beer :biggrin:

For those that need the DRO on the tail stock by all means if you feel you need it then do it. To each their own.... :wink:

 

[Texatdurango]

I think a couple different questions were being asked or argued here. One was why do we need DRO's at all....and the other was why do we need a tailstock DRO.......

Gil, I have a third question. Why were the first two questions even brought up at all?

I went back and reread the first post just to see if I overlooked something and sure enough nothing had changed, it was just Mike wanting others to know what a bang up job his dad did installing his DRO.

I don't understand why every thread these days has to decay into debates and arguments. Can't we just be happy that others are happy and leave it at that?

I liked Fred's idea of putting a caliper on the tailstock so today I'm taking an extra caliper and mounting it on my tailstock. When installed, I won't have to rely on depth marks on my drill bits anymore and that's the only reason (well, that and it would be fun to do)! There are those who would argue how worthless this is when it's cheaper to just keep using Sharpies to put depth marks on the bits but those people are really missing the reason for most of us even having shops in the first place.

 

[Gilrock]

I liked Fred's idea of putting a caliper on the tailstock so today I'm taking an extra caliper and mounting it on my tailstock....

You know that's exactly what I was about to say before you posted this message. I really liked the installation I saw in BigShed's photo...I had to look back to see if his name was Fred.

So Fred did you make any drawings for those parts you made to install that caliper or did you just wing it? The only tricky part I see is how to make that plate match up with the caliper coming in from the side.

 

[IPD_Mr]

We had to take a break and bring a load of purchases up from the show and catalog them so I thought I would see if anything new was on the IAP. And this thread keeps rearing it's head.

I think a couple different questions were being asked or argued here. One was why do we need DRO's at all....and the other was why do we need a tailstock DRO.......

Gil, I have a third question. Why were the first two questions even brought up at all?

I went back and reread the first post just to see if I overlooked something and sure enough nothing had changed, it was just Mike wanting others to know what a bang up job his dad did installing his DRO.

This was the intent of the post. I wanted to show off the new tool and publicly thank Dad for installing this for me while I had to fill orders all day.

I don't understand why every thread these days has to decay into debates and arguments. Can't we just be happy that others are happy and leave it at that?

Debates and discussions are fine when appropriate. This would have been better to have a new thread started with a subject of why do we need a DRO on a tail stock and what are the options.

I liked Fred's idea of putting a caliper on the tailstock so today I'm taking an extra caliper and mounting it on my tailstock. When installed, I won't have to rely on depth marks on my drill bits anymore and that's the only reason (well, that and it would be fun to do)! There are those who would argue how worthless this is when it's cheaper to just keep using Sharpies to put depth marks on the bits but those people are really missing the reason for most of us even having shops in the first place.

The main reason I wanted a DRO on the tail stock was for making sections, and caps. When you need to drill a certain diameter at a depth of .825 and it needs to be accurate, a sharpie mark on a drill bit doesn't cut it. First of all I have never been able to get the sharpie mark set exactly where I want it on the bit. So once I mark the bit I remeasure the length on the bit end then have to watch if I need to drill just short of the mark, half way through the mark or just past it. Nor do I have to worry about the mark washing off when using cutting and lubricating fluids. One of the reasons I opted for a single DRO and not a multiple axis DRO is that I like the readouts seperate. If I am looking at the tail stock then that is where the readout is and my focus is there not at a readout pannel and trying to remember which line is what. Besides after spending what I did on the lathe I was not about to put several hundred dollars into a DRO system. For what I am doing I did not need that high end of a product.

So now that all this is cleared up, thanks again Dad for the work you did on my tail stock. You did a great job and I really appreciate you taking your time and equipment to do this for me. If anyone wants to do this for their tail stock, please ask my Dad about how to do this. I know how it is done in theory but since I did not do it, you are better off to ask him.

 

[joefyffe]

We had to take a break and bring a load of purchases up from the show and catalog them so I thought I would see if anything new was on the IAP. And this thread keeps rearing it's head.

I think a couple different questions were being asked or argued here. One was why do we need DRO's at all....and the other was why do we need a tailstock DRO.......

Gil, I have a third question. Why were the first two questions even brought up at all?

I went back and reread the first post just to see if I overlooked something and sure enough nothing had changed, it was just Mike wanting others to know what a bang up job his dad did installing his DRO.

This was the intent of the post. I wanted to show off the new tool and publicly thank Dad for installing this for me while I had to fill orders all day.

I don't understand why every thread these days has to decay into debates and arguments. Can't we just be happy that others are happy and leave it at that?

Debates and discussions are fine when appropriate. This would have been better to have a new thread started with a subject of why do we need a DRO on a tail stock and what are the options.

I liked Fred's idea of putting a caliper on the tailstock so today I'm taking an extra caliper and mounting it on my tailstock. When installed, I won't have to rely on depth marks on my drill bits anymore and that's the only reason (well, that and it would be fun to do)! There are those who would argue how worthless this is when it's cheaper to just keep using Sharpies to put depth marks on the bits but those people are really missing the reason for most of us even having shops in the first place.

The main reason I wanted a DRO on the tail stock was for making sections, and caps. When you need to drill a certain diameter at a depth of .825 and it needs to be accurate, a sharpie mark on a drill bit doesn't cut it. First of all I have never been able to get the sharpie mark set exactly where I want it on the bit. So once I mark the bit I remeasure the length on the bit end then have to watch if I need to drill just short of the mark, half way through the mark or just past it. Nor do I have to worry about the mark washing off when using cutting and lubricating fluids. One of the reasons I opted for a single DRO and not a multiple axis DRO is that I like the readouts seperate. If I am looking at the tail stock then that is where the readout is and my focus is there not at a readout pannel and trying to remember which line is what. Besides after spending what I did on the lathe I was not about to put several hundred dollars into a DRO system. For what I am doing I did not need that high end of a product.

So now that all this is cleared up, thanks again Dad for the work you did on my tail stock. You did a great job and I really appreciate you taking your time and equipment to do this for me. If anyone wants to do this for their tail stock, please ask my Dad about how to do this. I know how it is done in theory but since I did not do it, you are better off to ask him.

Oh, Thanks Mike! See if I do your X (cross slide) Axis for you!! You know I will! That's an easy one. I may go ahead and make that bracket this week and attach it to your other scale. Then, it's just a matter of drilling and tapping three holes and putting screws in them. Sure does add a level of accuracy when cutting tenons. Sure will be nice when I start on Mels 50 keyrings to keep them the same size and not have to be picking up the calipers all the time, plus a nice straight side to put their business logo decals on. Besides! with tools comes clout! :tongue: arty: arty:

 

[Texatdurango]

I liked Fred's idea of putting a caliper on the tailstock so today I'm taking an extra caliper and mounting it on my tailstock....

You know that's exactly what I was about to say before you posted this message. I really liked the installation I saw in BigShed's photo...I had to look back to see if his name was Fred.

So Fred did you make any drawings for those parts you made to install that caliper or did you just wing it? The only tricky part I see is how to make that plate match up with the caliper coming in from the side.

I thought everyone knew Fred, he's the one with the cleanest shop and the cleanest machines. I often wonder how he gets anything done in such a sterile environment!

 

[bitshird]

I agree with the DRO on the tail stock, But I also agree with Danny, I got used to working with the 2 readouts in one place on a lathe and all 3 in one place on a mill, But the Mills had Acu-Rite or Mitutoyo, both of which are above my current pay grade, I've seen several ways to mount Digital Calipers to lathes, but Decent digital calipers that are coolant proof are still in the 100.00 range. and Dial Calipers would foul the tracks with swarf. I heard all kinds of complaints from the students at school about the Harbor freight calipers draining the battery, I bought a pair from Advance AUTO PARTS, $19.95 and gave them to a couple of kids that couldn't afford them. I have to say I detest Digital Calipers and Mics! But I realise that in a production environment. I wouldn't suggest showing up to work in a real shop with tools like that but!!
Getteing back to the point, I think having a DRO on your Tail Stock sounds like a good Idea, and there are plenty of semi decent digital calipers from places like Enco. The ones I bought at the car place are now 39.00 but they are still at the school and that was about 4 or 5 years, Walmart has the batteries for 3.50 and they last quite a while.

 

[OKLAHOMAN]

Joe, how about I send my tail stock to you to do mine:biggrin::wink:......hell I forgot your Mikes FIL not mine:frown:

 

[Texatdurango]

Hmmmmm, My hip was giving me fits today so no standing up working on my lathe as planned. I wonder if my tailstock would fit into a large flat rate mail box?

Joe, you don't mind coming out of retirement do you? :wink:

 

[BigShed]

I liked Fred's idea of putting a caliper on the tailstock so today I'm taking an extra caliper and mounting it on my tailstock....

You know that's exactly what I was about to say before you posted this message. I really liked the installation I saw in BigShed's photo...I had to look back to see if his name was Fred.

So Fred did you make any drawings for those parts you made to install that caliper or did you just wing it? The only tricky part I see is how to make that plate match up with the caliper coming in from the side.

Basically I winged it:wink: I wanted the caliper at 45deg for easy reading, would have preferred it on either the top of the tailstock or at the rear.
On top wasn't possible because of the quill lock knob, at the rear the caliper fould the camlock lever, so front it was.
I then milled the bracket first out of some aluminium (aluminum to you guys:tongue and made up a plate to attach the caliper, I wanted to be able to remove it.
I originally had a much larger front mounting plate on the quill, but the angle was derived from attaching the caliper and marking it off.
I reduced the bulk of the quill plate as much as I could, then in use found that the slight rorational movement of the quill when drilling could at times affect the movement of the caliper. I then saw on a metal working forum (HSM I think) that someone used a ball link from a remote control helicopter to overcome this problem, once that was installed it was fine. It also allowed me to reduce the bulk of the quill plate even further.

As for fouling on my QCTP, that is still possible even with the reduced shape, but where this is a (rare) problem I just undo the little Allen screw on the rear of the quill plate and then the quill plate remains at the tailstock end.

Oh and as for my "sterile" shop:biggrin:, I might just go and take a current photo, the previous one was taken after I installed the DRO and had the whole lathe off the cabinet and a good chance to do a proper clean.
Just now it isn't quite so clean!

Looking forward to seeing some pics of what you finish up with George.

 

[hanau]

Can any of you post some pics of your setups?
and how you mounted the dros?

 

[joefyffe]

Can any of you post some pics of your setups?
and how you mounted the dros?

John: If I copied and pasted correctly the link below, you should be able to look at three pics of how I did mine as well as the opening picture of this thread of how I set up my son in laws.

http://www.penturners.org/forum/f166/x-axis-dro-97765/#post1403627

 

[joefyffe]

Joe, how about I send my tail stock to you to do mine:biggrin::wink:......hell I forgot your Mikes FIL not mine:frown:

Roy: You and George are just too easy! I just wish that you's and Mike and I, and the Mikes and Chuck in Florida were close enough that we could all get together and play. I know tonight, while drilling three different sizes of holes in a 1.650" long writing tip, 1.ballpoint tip, 2. spring pocket, 3. clearance for bottom of Parker bbl. I was able to shoot right down to the thousandths. and NO ink marks on my drill bits.

 

[joefyffe]

Hmmmmm, My hip was giving me fits today so no standing up working on my lathe as planned. I wonder if my tailstock would fit into a large flat rate mail box?

Joe, you don't mind coming out of retirement do you? :wink:

George, see my response to Roy. Brother, you are going to LOVE your new DROs!!!!! I know about those hip and lower back issues. Sitting here now looking at a fresh box of Lidoderm Patches. They do seem to help. I, sometimes pull a stool up to the lathe but it still is not a comfortable way to turn. However, the DROs do help for that because you can sit there with your hand on the drive lever and when you get to the end of that .500" pass, take it back and do it again. :biggrin::biggrin::biggrin:

 

[BigShed]

Posted a WIP of my tailstock DRO project here

 

[OKLAHOMAN]

Joe I just don't think one small area of the country wouldn't be safe if the seven of us were able to hang out on week ends.

Joe, how about I send my tail stock to you to do mine:biggrin::wink:......hell I forgot your Mikes FIL not mine:frown:

Roy: You and George are just too easy! I just wish that you's and Mike and I, and the Mikes and Chuck in Florida were close enough that we could all get together and play. I know tonight, while drilling three different sizes of holes in a 1.650" long writing tip, 1.ballpoint tip, 2. spring pocket, 3. clearance for bottom of Parker bbl. I was able to shoot right down to the thousandths. and NO ink marks on my drill bits.

 

[bluwolf]

Can any of you post some pics of your setups?
and how you mounted the dros?

My pix are not as helpful as Fred's because he took the time to take them as he was machining. But here are a couple I did. The first one is mine. Then Chuck's 7x12 and last PTownsubbie's woodlathe tailstock.

I'm almost done with Chuck's 9x20 TS DRO but I really want him to paint the lathe blue before we do any more to it:biggrin:

 

[Texatdurango]

...... I just wish that you's and Mike and I, and the Mikes and Chuck in Florida were close enough that we could all get together and play. I know tonight, while drilling three different sizes of holes in a 1.650" long writing tip, 1.ballpoint tip, 2. spring pocket, 3. clearance for bottom of Parker bbl. I was able to shoot right down to the thousandths. and NO ink marks on my drill bits.

Well, let's see, I could hop on I-40 and head east and just past Ok City make a slight detour and pick up Roy and his tailstock then head northeast on I-44 till I pick up I-70 at St. Loius then take I-70 which will take me right into Indianapolis/Zionsville. Just a hair over 1600 miles, no problem, I can pick up some donuts on the way, just make sure you have some coffee on when we get there!

The Florida guys can just head Northwest for a little ways.

If your shop can hold six guests, we're good to go, just set the date!