Segmenting with aluminum and wood

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I was just showing it go from clamp to lathe to turn off the edges and find the center. I always mark the center at both ends of the blank relative to the segments. This way if I was off at all on the segments I can mark it and then counter sink the ends and turn off the corners of the blank before I mount it in my chuck for drilling.

God Bless
Mike

Frank Nemke sr. said:
Thanks for the pictures. I tried this on bandsaw. Three a temps On the 3rd one the drive belt came off again and I gave up for now. I have one question= the 7th picture doesn't seem to fit the sequence , is that another project?
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mikespenturningz said:
Yes the break is the thickness of the kerf of the blade, but the thickness of the aluminum has nothing to do with it. When you make the second cut you are cutting away part of the first scallop. Then gluing it back in minus the part you cut out because of the thickness of the blade. I know it is hard to see and visualize like I said in an earlier post it too firewhatfire to help me actually see it.
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I think i can help explain whats going on here.....This picture explains it well. To the person who made this pen, Forgive me, I'm not sure who's pen this is, I just downloaded it a while back because I liked it and it helped me understand what was going on.

1st step is cut A. Then turn the blank and make cut B. when cut B is made, a slice comes out of the small piece left, labeled C. This essentially causes piece C to slide down the pen(or up in this picture) when this small slither was cut out because the rest of the pen did not move.
 

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Well this is not exactly what is going on. Step one is just what is in this tutorial. You glue this up and let it sit until dry. Then you take it back to the bandsaw and clean it up so it is a nice square blank again. Then you turn it so the V is on the side and make the cut again. This leaves you will exactly the same pieces that you had in the beginning. Then you add another piece of aluminum and glue it again. I will make one and take images for you.

God Bless
Mike

Briskar said:
mikespenturningz said:
Yes the break is the thickness of the kerf of the blade, but the thickness of the aluminum has nothing to do with it. When you make the second cut you are cutting away part of the first scallop. Then gluing it back in minus the part you cut out because of the thickness of the blade. I know it is hard to see and visualize like I said in an earlier post it too firewhatfire to help me actually see it.
Click to expand...



I think i can help explain whats going on here.....This picture explains it well. To the person who made this pen, Forgive me, I'm not sure who's pen this is, I just downloaded it a while back because I liked it and it helped me understand what was going on.

1st step is cut A. Then turn the blank and make cut B. when cut B is made, a slice comes out of the small piece left, labeled C. This essentially causes piece C to slide down the pen(or up in this picture) when this small slither was cut out because the rest of the pen did not move.
Click to expand...
 
Sorry Mike....I did leave out a bunch of steps in between. The key for me understanding this was when the bottom of the little piece(what I'm calling "C") is basically cut away and then the piece slides down causing the aluminum to misalign. This is what helped my simple mind understand what you have going on. I stared for hours....then it hit me.....just like you said. I didn't intend to jump on your thread, just help us normal folks understand what a genius you are!
 
Ok so here are the images to get you scalloping two colors. It is the same process for a single color..
First here is my new sled. Notice that it has a scale on the left side to change the angle of the mitre.
This is how I get my 60 degree or more cuts. Each hole is 5 degrees plus my V-Block
1_newsled.JPG

First cut the 2 pieces as so.
1_maple.JPG

1_pheart.JPG

1_maplePurple.JPG


All glued up this was only the first cut.
1_b4recut.JPG


OK here is the most important image.
1_recut.JPG


Cut using the exact same setup as in the first step. I just turned the blank 90 degrees and used the aluminum from the previous cut to determine where to start my cut.

Wow I hope this helps you all. Good luck trying it.
 
Mike.. Thanks for sharing your work and your methods. I'm curious about your V-block. What is it? How did you make it? Thanks again.. Larry
 
No I didn't make it I purchased it online. If you just google machinist v-block it should come up with something. It is the basis for all of my cuts. You could just make a wooden one too it is just a 45 degree block.

Mikle

turn4fun said:
Mike.. Thanks for sharing your work and your methods. I'm curious about your V-block. What is it? How did you make it? Thanks again.. Larry
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Very Helpful Mike. I have been working on my sled, but had not thought of the V-block. I like the idea of the metal V block as opposed to the things I was thinking about. The point of the V cut, is critical. One needs to be very sure that the cuts intersect exactly or the eventual join will not work well.

Your pictures illustrate all your steps so well. I appreciate the time you are putting into this, and all others that have chimed in with questions and tips. This thread just keeps getting better.
 
Mike - and all segmenters; I'm thinking about trying the "V" segmenting using aluminum bar stock (3/4 or 1/2" dia) and some species of wood. Any thoughts on how to cut the "V" in the aluminum stock with the precision required?

mikespenturningz said:
Here is a look at the blank after the second cut.

1_rightafter2ndcut.JPG
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Thanks for any sugestions
 
Well Lynn maybe the same way that I do it but with a bandsaw that is made for metal. Mine has multiple speeds so it can do metal and many do? That would be about the only idea I would have about that. I would also consider checking with BradG he is really into the metal work and I bet it would be an easy answer for him.
 
mikespenturningz said:
Well Lynn maybe the same way that I do it but with a bandsaw that is made for metal. Mine has multiple speeds so it can do metal and many do? That would be about the only idea I would have about that. I would also consider checking with BradG he is really into the metal work and I bet it would be an easy answer for him.
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Thanks Mike - I was thinking about the band saw. I'm pretty sure a metal cutting blade can be bought for a 14" Jet bandsaw:confused: WIll have to check it out. As for the speed reduction - I'll have to look at that.

Thanks
 
LL Woodworks said:
mikespenturningz said:
Well Lynn maybe the same way that I do it but with a bandsaw that is made for metal. Mine has multiple speeds so it can do metal and many do? That would be about the only idea I would have about that. I would also consider checking with BradG he is really into the metal work and I bet it would be an easy answer for him.
Click to expand...

Thanks Mike - I was thinking about the band saw. I'm pretty sure a metal cutting blade can be bought for a 14" Jet bandsaw:confused: WIll have to check it out. As for the speed reduction - I'll have to look at that.

Thanks
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No speed reduction needed. It is aluminum. Cuts like wood. Get a metal blade. Let the blade do the cutting. As far as jigs go make something. No need to buy anything fancy. Think outside the box. 1/2" is not wide enough for most pen kits. You can also cut it on a tablesaw. Again a jig is needed mainly to safely hold the piece.
 
I'm revisiting this thread and looking through it and have some questions (I still consider myself quite the unskilled woodworker at many things). 1 - Can you flip that jig over and show a picture of the bottom? I have no idea how it would slide on the band saw...slots...slides..rectangular long hollowed out portions of the band saw table top. 2 - If I don't have a table saw...or a working band saw (trying to fix that) how would I be able to create this/a jig for use on the band saw? That seems like quite the request so if it's too much or already answered in the library just say keep searching and I will (I know there is a treasure trove of info here but I'm almost part of the gimme it all now generation at times).

Thanks
 
Give a try to this one. A Cross Cut Sled for the Bandsaw - YouTube

I have found better articles in the past but couldn't find them quickly this morning. You should look around for more of them. Also there are some very good youtubes about tuning up your bandsaw. I have mentioned this in other threads but the experience you get while you are doing these projects and figuring out how to make thing work the best you can is important to your overall product. There really is no fast way to get experience.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CVzKIAooZhk
 
I love Mike's sled for "V" segmenting using the V block; Thanks Mike. I surrounded my V Block with a holder made of MDF, stabilized it with thin CA. As you can see, I can clamp it to the sled fence and not worry or focus on holding the V block still but I can focus on the vital depth of cut.
 

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