Plastic Polish Comparison

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TonyL

TonyL

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Here's what I compared:

HUTS High Gloss, Novus 2, One-Step (which is the same as Flitz per Olaf of Flitz), Meguiers 105, Meguires 205.

All turned using carbide, finished to 12,000 MM, viewed under a 10X LED light.

Meguires 105, did the best job and removing fine radial scratches. I have not found any to live-up to their claims of "no sanding needed after 400 or 600 grit" I did try this, as well, as sanding up to each progressive grit to 2,000.

I may try the Doctor's 3 step process, once I get rid of all of this polish :biggrin:

This is just my experience.

My best process is MM to 12000, Meguires 105, then 205, followed by Rejex "wax" for protection. I know there are many excellent processes out there. If I live long enough, I may try them all. LOL
 
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I enjoy the experimenting and the excitement of finding something better. I also started using Meguire's first, two weeks after I starting turning acrylic (I used a buffy wheel before that) and knew nothing about plastic polishes - I just happen to have Meguires in my garage for auto detailing. Recently, while browsing through the catalogs, I read the manufacturer/distriutors' claims of these other polishes. I thought I would try them and could possibly eliminate some sanding. With Meguire's, I still have to sand through 4,000. What do you like Bill?
 
Thanks, Tony for doing the "leg work" for the rest of us. I really hope you do manage to try the 3 step Dr's Polish. Would love to know how that compares under the same conditions. So far, I like it. Russ
 
TonyL said:
Here's what I compared:

HUTS High Gloss, Novus 2, One-Step (which is the same as Flitz per Olaf of Flitz), Meguiers 105, Meguires 205.

All turned using carbide, finished to 12,000 MM, viewed under a 10X LED light.

Meguires 105, did the best job and removing fine radial scratches. I have not found any to live-up to their claims of "no sanding needed after 400 or 600 grit" I did try this, as well, as sanding up to each progressive grit to 2,000.

I may try the Doctor's 3 step process, once I get rid of all of this polish :biggrin:

This is just my experience.

My best process is MM to 12000, Meguires 105, then 205, followed by Rejex "wax" for protection. I know there are many excellent processes out there. If I live long enough, I may try them all. LOL
Click to expand...

Fine radial scratches are best removed with longitudinal sanding, without the lathe spinning.
I also like Meguires PlastX.
 
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Tony, How did the other's rate? Maybe rate them from coarsest to finest, probably not the proper terms for polishes.
 
My unscientific experience was this:

From most "scratch removal" to least

1. Meguires 105
2. Meguires 205, Novus, HUTS - tied
3. One-Step

While I do sanding length-wise with the lathe off, I can't say it makes a difference that I can see.
 
I like Meguiar's PlastX also ...

"Diminishing Micro-Abrasive Technology provides powerful yet safe cleaning/polishing action to remove:
* Light Oxidiation
* Sains and Contaminants
* Fine Scratches

This easy to use rich gel formula contains vital conditioning oils, which restore optical clarity to clear plastics and beautifies opaque plastics. Highly water resistant polymers provide long-lasting durable protection. PlastX is non-toxic and does not contain any harsh solvents.

NOTE: NOT FOR USE ON PAINTED SURFACES."

(off the back of the bottle ...)

I started using this when I read about the One-Step plastic polish over at the PSI website and decided to see if this would work. One-Step also touts a "Diminishing Micro-Abrasive Technology" formula, and I can't help but wonder if they're both made by the same company. I only bought the bottle 2 years ago in order to clear the yellowish haze off my headlights so that I could see while driving at night. I have to say, this stuff is magic on a CA finish or acrylic pen barrels alike... It's like my pens have a glass finish. Ultra-smooth, with no visible scratches at all. Everybody who picks up one of my pens just can't help but marvel at how I could get a finish that perfect.
 
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This is great info. When I called Meguiar's, they did recommed PlastX (which I have). And they didn't want me to use 105 and 205 on plastic (CA, acrylic, PR, etc.). However, remember, Meguiars makes products for car, boats, etc. surface....not pens. I think 105 and 205 are too aggressive for Meguiars to recommend for plastics..they also sell a product for plastic as we are all aware of.

I learned from PSI and Flitz that One Step and Flitz are the same, just private labeled (I wish I saved the email). Here's what is funny...according to Flitz (per his email to me), Flitz doesn't remove fine scratches (or any scratches). Who can make sense of this stuff?

I think it comes down to finding something that produces a finish that you and your pen recipients like, and to a standard and level of effort that you one finds acceptable (I am content with no visible scratches under a 10X loop).

I just spent over 200 on a bunch of Caswell stuff for CA finishing. I really don't like introducing moisture to a CA finish which wet sanding does. I tried all of the drying sanding and steel wool sanding techniques mentioned here, and I can't achieve what the other turners achieve using those methods. Although,I have seen some of their work and it is outstanding.

That's what makes this hobby frustra....., I mean fun ! :).

Thanks again for sharing and continued success with your technique!
 
Thats for the testing, much better than what I did. Went to Wal Mart's automotive section and just picked what ever looked good.

I bought Meguiar's PlastX.
 
Tony

Next time you are in Woodcraft pick up a tube of Simichrome. I've used it for years with great results. I sand with 400, 600, 1000, 1500, 2000, 3000 and 5000 and finish off with Simichrome. It is a little pricey, but well worth it.

Ben y
 
Tony,
I have been using Nu Finish 'scratch doctor/scratch remover with very good results. It's also an automotive product.
On my vehicles I pretty much stick to Meguiar products so I'll have to give your finding a try. thanks for doing all that research
 
Tony, thanks for getting this discussion started.

I am however surprised that no one has mentioned the plastic polish that Barry Gross sells. I have been using it for years. Also, I do not turn the lathe on when using this. I apply longitudinally with my finger while rotating the hand wheel by hand. I allow the polish to dry to a haze and then, by hand, buff it off still longitudinally using a piece of clean T shirt material. When I get to the point of polish, I do not want to still be putting rotational scratches on the pen..no matter how fine they may be.

Additionally, there has been no mention of buffing afterwards. Likewise, I use the acrylic buffing wheels by Barry Gross which use the blue rouge on one wheel and then a clean wheel. Again, using these wheels, I buff with the length of the pen. Not in a rotating direction. After this, just a hand wipe with another piece of clean T shirt wiping lengthwise to remove any remaining residue.

I don't have a loupe but it looks top notch to me. A piece of polished black acrylic in direct sunlight will show up any scratches in your process.
I am not a "loupey" guy.

Carry on!
 
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