Opinions on using Alumilite for inserts on wooden kitless pens

[egnald]

Hello IAP Membership,

As I am starting to venture into kitless, I have a question....

I know many, maybe most, kit-less folks use ebonite as an insert for their wooden kitless pens, however, since I can make my own blanks from Alumilite (Alumilite Clear Slow), I've been wondering what you think about casting Alumilite for the purpose of making inserts.

And, I'm thinking about using 1/2 inch Schedule 80 for 13.36mm blanks, which would let me make cap threads using a 13mm triple lead die and 3/8 inch Schedule 40 which would leave me with almost a perfect tenon for a 12mm triple lead die at 12.01mm or is this cutting things a little too close?

0.403" (10.24mm) = 3/8 inch Schedule 80 PVC mold
0.473" (12.01mm) = 3/8 inch Schedule 40 PVC mold
0.526" (13.36mm) = 1/2 inch Schedule 80 PVC mold
0.602" (15.29mm) = 1/2 inch Schedule 40 PVC mold

Regards,
Dave

 

[Hippie3180]

Alumilite blanks work well. We make ours approx 3/4" but smaller would mean less to turn off obviously. I'm also thinking those blanks may make your walls pretty thin, but of course try it.

 

[duncsuss]

Instead of drilling and gluing a sleeve into the wooden barrel, another option is to drill the wooden blank first and then pour the alumilite (or your resin of choice) into the bored out barrel. Build up a collar at the top using some kind of tape so you can overfill it and you'll have a single piece that can be threaded internally and externally.

(I wish I could remember who posted this method do I could give them credit.)

 

[Hippie3180]

Instead of drilling and gluing a sleeve into the wooden barrel, another option is to drill the wooden blank first and then pour the alumilite (or your resin of choice) into the bored out barrel. Build up a collar at the top using some kind of tape so you can overfill it and you'll have a single piece that can be threaded internally and externally.

(I wish I could remember who posted this method do I could give them credit.)

I've seen this as an option, but because I feel resin pouring is inherently messy, I opt to pour a separate blank. Also, if I want to have matching section etc, it's easier to pour one long blank for me personally.

In addition I would think that any moisture in your wood may cause a problem. Alumilite does not like moisture at all, just something to consider.

 

[Penchant 4]

Hello IAP Membership,

As I am starting to venture into kitless, I have a question....

I know many, maybe most, kit-less folks use ebonite as an insert for their wooden kitless pens, however, since I can make my own blanks from Alumilite (Alumilite Clear Slow), I've been wondering what you think about casting Alumilite for the purpose of making inserts.

And, I'm thinking about using 1/2 inch Schedule 80 for 13.36mm blanks, which would let me make cap threads using a 13mm triple lead die and 3/8 inch Schedule 40 which would leave me with almost a perfect tenon for a 12mm triple lead die at 12.01mm or is this cutting things a little too close?

0.403" (10.24mm) = 3/8 inch Schedule 80 PVC mold
0.473" (12.01mm) = 3/8 inch Schedule 40 PVC mold
0.526" (13.36mm) = 1/2 inch Schedule 80 PVC mold
0.602" (15.29mm) = 1/2 inch Schedule 40 PVC mold

Regards,
Dave

Go for it! You have obviously done some research into the viability of mold types. I have had good success threading Alumilite Clear Slow, going carefully and keeping the cutters and surface lubricated with either canola oil or, more recently, Anchorlube...easier to clean off than the canola, though the canola was not really difficult.

Good luck.

 

[d_bondi]

Hi Dave,

I use ebonite, but plan to begin using Alumilite blanks for sleeving soon. Many of the folks making sleeved wood pens are using alumilite for sleeves. I am not concerned about the durability of the material. I do feel like the ebonite has a warmer feel to the touch, and I know that some folks find this appealing, especially in a wood pen.

As for the sizes, I think you may be cutting it a bit close. A few points...

• I do all the machining on my sleeves before gluing into the wood blanks, so you need enough diameter on the material to safely accomplish this. On the cap sleeve, the major of the threads for an M13 tap is 13mm, if you want a full mm thickness beyond that, you need a trued up 15mm blank, if you feel comfortable with less, say 0.75mm, then you need 1.5mm on top of the 13mm, for 14.5mm. For the barrel, you will need to cut the 13mm tenon to cut the threads into, so you have to start with a bare minimum of a 13mm trued to round blank. Neither of these examples account for enough material if you want to have an Alumilite shoulder/ring at the end of the wood. I hope this makes sense.
• You can't count on them being true right out of the mold, so you will loose some turning them to truly round
• You need to turn them down anyway to fit into the hole you drill in the wood blank.

 

[d_bondi]

Instead of drilling and gluing a sleeve into the wooden barrel, another option is to drill the wooden blank first and then pour the alumilite (or your resin of choice) into the bored out barrel. Build up a collar at the top using some kind of tape so you can overfill it and you'll have a single piece that can be threaded internally and externally.

(I wish I could remember who posted this method do I could give them credit.)

It was @Fred Bruche. HERE is one of his posts.