Oils and CA finish

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Stejen570

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Does anyone have advice on oils and CA finish. What's the best oil and any special techniques as to how to apply and get a great grain popping finish. This information would be greatly appreciated as I have only done CA finishes.
Thanks
Steve
 
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I use only thin CA, I find that the grain pops well with nothing else. But if I were to use something I would look for something that penetrates but hardens like danish oil. I'd be hesitant to put CA over an oil that stays wet. Others have reported problems with CA over naturally oily woods -- but I haven't encountered this. Others have recommended a mixture of CA and BLO, though I can't see the benefits over just using straight CA.
 
Clarification on your question: Are you asking about CA and Oil finishes as separate finishes, or oil to pop the grain and then CA over it?
 
I agree with Hank your question needs more detail. If you want to pop the grain than BLO will do that. and top coat with CA. Let Blo cure.
 
Birchwood Casey Tru-Oil. Easy to apply. Produces a protective high quality finish. Please.... wear a respirator. These oil finishes are extremely harmful
 
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I know this is going to sound pedantic, but here goes - - -

We need to be more careful in terms that we use, and in the particular context of this thread, to differentiate between the generic names, proprietary product names, and names that vaguely apply to broad categories of products. Specifically:

Linseed oil, Tung oil, and Walnut oil are specific types of oils. All are derived from plants and are categorized as 'drying oils' in that they will eventually (some faster than others) combine with oxygen to 'polymerize', or cure to a hard, plastic-like finish. Linseed oil may also be called 'flax seed oil' because it is extracted from flax, the plant that produces the fiber used to make linen. There is a special version of Linseed oil called 'Boiled Linseed Oil', or BLO, that is specifically treated to make it cure faster. The name is derived from the fact that originally the treatment involved heating the raw oil, but today is a matter of adding chemical compounds (often heavy metal compounds involving cadmium or chromium) that achieve the same effect.

Tru-Oil is the name of a proprietary product made by one manufacturer. It is a blend of Linseed oil, Stoddard solvent (basically, less-flamable form of mineral spirits), and other unidentified proprietary oils. Similarly, other proprietary product names include AussieOil, OsmoOil, etc.

Teak Oil is a generic marketing name for a finish intended for outdoor application that may include Linseed oil, Tung oil, mineral oil (a byproduct of petroleum refining), and any number of other additives. It is NOT made from Teak, but rather the name was derived from its original use as a finish for items made of teak wood.

Danish oil is a generic name for blends of oils (including Linseed oil, Tung oil, various oils derived from safflower and sunflower seeds, etc), solvents (typically, mineral spirits but possibly turpentine or other solvents), and in some cases, varnish solids. There are as many different formulas for Danish Oil as there are manufacturers making it. Strictly speaking, Teak oil and Tru-Oil could be categorized as Danish oils.

And then there are oil products that also contain wax - the 'hardwax oils', and proprietary products such as Howard's Feed n Wax, and even some of the Teak Oils. Also, there are products that include oils or waxes derived from animals rather than plants - for example, Neetsfoot Oil is a leather preservative based on components extracted from cattle.
 
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Wow very good Louie. All that you said id true. Times where we group names of things and actual product names can get confusing. Boy that last sentence brought back memories. The use of Neetsfoot oil. Man I used that stuff on my work boots all the time as well as my electrician pouches. I must I have some laying around here somewhere.
 
First of all, I want to commend Louie (@monophoto) for his great writeup about oil finishes. You can't argue with what he wrote, but I would like to add minor clarifications about linseed oil.

Reminding you of what Louie said above - He said that linseed oil is one of the ... "'drying oils' in that they will eventually (some faster than others) combine with oxygen to 'polymerize', or cure to a hard, plastic-like finish."

What I want to add is that there are multiple types of linseed oils used for finishes. It is important to know the differences, and not confuse them:

Raw Linseed Oil - This is sold as flaxseed oil and is sometimes used for cooking. I use it to season cast iron pans. You can use it to finish wood, but it takes many weeks or longer to dry, and the linseed oil is likely to go rancid during that time. Don't bother with raw linseed oil as a finish.

Boiled Linseed Oil (Ancient) - Back in Medieval times, people heated linseed oil with a lead compound. The additive helped the wood finish to dry faster. It was called "boiled linseed oil" and the name stuck. It is probably the same stuff they poured on invading marauders from the top of the castle walls. Lead is bad for you, which is why they don't use it in wood finishes any longer.

Boiled Linseed Oil with Toxic Metallic Driers - This type is the common, inexpensive linseed oil finish sold in metal cans and used in many other finishing products. Because of the metallic driers, most linseed oil finishes are not food safe! Do not use it on salad bowls, cutting boards, wood utensils, baby toys, etc! This type of boiled linseed oil finish is safe to use on pens, wood furniture, and other wood projects that do not have direct food contact.

Heat-Treated, Food-Safe, Linseed Oil Finishes - Another type of linseed oil finish relies on special heat-treating processes. Metallic driers and other toxic additives are strictly avoided. The companies that produce these finishes keep their "proprietary" heat-treating processes a secret, like the recipe for Coca Cola or the Colonel's 11 herbs and spices. They are often sold as fancy, expensive, "boutique" oil finishes. Examples include "Tried and True" and "Odie's Oil."

I tried various oil finishes on scraps, and they all look pretty much the same. I use the fancy heat-treated, food-safe finishes on bowls and baby toys, but the cheap stuff with metallic driers on everything else that doesn't need "food-safe" protection.
 
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