Segmenting Nothing unique, but....

Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
I have a jig in mind that I want to eventually build that could help in pen making going forward but just never got around to it. Not sure if i want to build for tablesaw or bandsaw. It will have to wait though. Maybe you will get to the idea ahead of me at the rate you are turning out jigs. :) Then I will just copy yours.
 
Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
I have a jig in mind that I want to eventually build that could help in pen making going forward but just never got around to it. Not sure if i want to build for tablesaw or bandsaw. It will have to wait though. Maybe you will get to the idea ahead of me at the rate you are turning out jigs. :) Then I will just copy yours.

My jig making is about to come to a grinding halt. I'm about out of materials. Can't go buy anything as we are all on lockdown. I have plenty of exotic and domestic pen making stock though. There's a few I'm thinking of, one I want to work on is an easy way to make a diamond pattern.


Sent from my iPad using Penturners.org mobile app
 
Diamonds are easy. Just cut the same strips you did for checkerboard at extreme angles to whatever you want. Mark shows his method all the time.

I need to start doing a few watch part pens that I want to get done. I finally got my mini break cleaned up and want to try it out on some neat material. Need to dial it in I bet. Again material that is available but not being used. I do have those 3 segmented blanks sitting there that need to get cut and proceed with the idea. Cleaned up the tubes that got screwed up with my last casting disaster and I think I figured a way to keep that from happening again. One of those thinking on the fly jigs. Problem comes up and figure a way around it. So will start working on them again. May incorporate one of your designs in the caps end of those pens. Have to see how it works out. Cap on the kits I am using is very thin. so not sure I can segment too much.
 
Last edited:
Yes because I set them up so the jig runs almost the entire length of the blank. What this does is not allow any walking away from the fence. I do not use a sled like you do which locks the board in place. Just the way I have been doing it. I again do not just do 5" pen blanks so I need to be versatile. I can saw a 24" board with a strip if need be and have at times. Many ways to do this. As I have said I will double side tape to a carrier board and attach my piece I want to cut strip with. So no need for all those clamps which again get costly. You seem to be into that stuff so that is just the way you do things. Me I am even more simple.

One thing I suggest if you can lower the blade guides on the bandsaw and keep that blade tighter because that is a small blade you are using and it will deflect very easily on a bandsaw.

Ok John, I revised this jig. Put an inline clamp behind the board being cut, remember , this is for my segmenting, so 6 inch length is fine for me. This lets me lower the blade guide. I also added a bearing to my stop/thickness guide. You were right, that hearing makes all the difference in the world. Didn't even think about it when building this but the entire jig will also work on my table saw. Just have to have the fence to the left of the blade. Made some test cuts and they were within .002 thickness, close enough for me.
IMG_1684.JPG



Sent from my iPhone using Penturners.org mobile app
 
We are going to have to start calling you the jig master. Quick fixes. yes the bearing does mean alot at least I found it to be. What blade are you running in the saw and what size saw is it.
 
We are going to have to start calling you the jig master. Quick fixes. yes the bearing does mean alot at least I found it to be. What blade are you running in the saw and what size saw is it.

The blade, actually the only brand I buy, is Timber Wolf, the one there is a 3/16. Those blades are low tension and cut like a dream. Virtually no drift.


Sent from my iPhone using Penturners.org mobile app
 
I have them along with the wood slicer, and some Olsons, but have settled on a carbide for alot of my sawing needs. (Lennox trimaster) I do use a metal blade alot too for cutting aluminum. Have all sizes and depends if i am doing a lot of cutting then will switch things out. And also depends on how accurate I need to be. For accuracy I found a tablesaw is the king in my world. The blades do not flutter at all. Keep them sharp and they will perform flawlessly. If human error does not show up.:)
 
Back
Top Bottom