Segmenting Nothing unique, but....

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Here's the blanks.
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I would suggest, as a kit, the "Blade" from Berea ... 3.71" long brass tube and needs a really classy blank like the one you've shown.

3-sided, eh? ... did you cut the maple with lengthwise cuts at 120 degrees ( using one of your jigs, of course ! ) ?
 
magpens said:
I would suggest, as a kit, the "Blade" from Berea ... 3.71" long brass tube and needs a really classy blank like the one you've shown.

3-sided, eh? ... did you cut the maple with lengthwise cuts at 120 degrees ( using one of your jigs, of course ! ) ?
Click to expand...

I did use one of my jigs, slots for the infill was routed out on my router table.


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Wow, those are absolutely stunning!! o_O
I hope the colours remain as vibrant once turned and finished.
The accuracy and precision of the workmanship is just superb too.
Very well done....(as usual)šŸ‘šŸ‘šŸ‘

I count 103 segments each too.... 3 x 30 checkers, 3 x white parts and 2 x orange ends...and 8 black veneers. ;)
 
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mark james said:
That is might nice Ken. And I love the pairing with the kit - excellent. Superb precision on the blank.
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Thanks Mark, one of the segmented checkers could have aligned a little better, but all in all, I'm happy with it. I tried something a little different with this one. Since it's a 3 sided design, I had to turn it round before routing the slots for the inlay. In order to glue on the end caps I drilled a little way into the blank for a short piece of 1/4 inch dowel and also drilled through the end caps. That made aligning the end caps very easy. Not really necessary on a square blank, but probably be the way I do round ones in the future.


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Your blank is nicely proportioned to suit that pen kit.

Looks great .... brilliant, in fact !!!

Do you remember the size of the little "checkers" in the checkerboard strips ? . They seem pretty small and all very equal in size ... WELL DONE !!

A rough "guesstimate" tells me that the checkers are about 0.120" square, or about an eighth inch ... that's pretty small for cutting on a table saw.
 
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magpens said:
Your blank is nicely proportioned to suit that pen kit.

Looks great .... brilliant, in fact !!!

Do you remember the size of the little "checkers" in the checkerboard strips ? . They seem pretty small and all very equal in size ... WELL DONE !!
Click to expand...

Thanks Mal, the checkers are .102. I make them to fit my table saw kerf.


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magpens said:
Your blank is nicely proportioned to suit that pen kit.

Looks great .... brilliant, in fact !!!

Do you remember the size of the little "checkers" in the checkerboard strips ? . They seem pretty small and all very equal in size ... WELL DONE !!

A rough "guesstimate" tells me that the checkers are about 0.120" square, or about an eighth inch ... that's pretty small for cutting on a table saw.
Click to expand...

Probably a surprise to you , but I built a thin rip jig for my table saw, so I can cut strips way thinner than .102. To be honest I've been able to cut the inlay to whatever I've needed. Am I lucky in this way? I've never really put that much thought into it.


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@KenB259
KenB259 said:
Probably a surprise to you , but I built a thin rip jig for my table saw, so I can cut strips way thinner than .102. To be honest I've been able to cut the inlay to whatever I've needed. Am I lucky in this way? I've never really put that much thought into it.
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I think you meant to say: "Probably NOT a surprise to you .... " .... LOL ! . Nothing you post is a surprise anymore ! . And you seem to work so fast !

No .... I wouldn't say you are "lucky"; I would say you are "skillful" !

And I'll bite on your .... "I can cut strips way thinner than .102." .... .... HOW THIN ? .... and what size table saw are you cutting on ... 10" ??

BTW .... I am working on a pool cue blank .... different technique from yours .... but don't hold your breath for a pic anytime soon !! . LOL !
I work even slower than I think !! . LOL !!
 
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Well tuned machines is what works best Mal. Use a bandsaw and save the kerf and less material. Again a well tuned saw can cut paper thin slices. Can do on a tablesaw as well but lose material because the size of the blade. I use a 1/16" blade if doing thin slices and use a 7-1/4" blade for that. There are a ton of videos of jigs for thin strip slicing on the net.
 
magpens said:
@KenB259

I think you meant to say: "Probably NOT a surprise to you .... " .... LOL ! . Nothing you post is a surprise anymore ! . And you seem to work so fast !

No .... I wouldn't say you are "lucky"; I would say you are "skillful" !

And I'll bite on your .... "I can cut strips way thinner than .102." .... .... HOW THIN ? .... and what size table saw are you cutting on ... 10" ??

BTW .... I am working on a pool cue blank .... different technique from yours .... but don't hold your breath for a pic anytime soon !! . LOL !
I work even slower than I think !! . LOL !!
Click to expand...

I am looking forward to seeing your cue stick blank and method. My table saw is a Jet Proshop. I could not be happier with it. It's 10 inch and performs the nickel test admirably. You got me thinking just how thin I can slice. I ran this test with just some pine scrap, hardwoods would probably work even better. I am attaching pictures. Anyone that segments will need some method of thinly slicing wood though not the extent my pictures show.
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NICE !! . Thank you !!

I am going to have to make up some jigs like you show "to improve my putt" !!!

Need to get some slot guide material and some clamps like you use. . Been doing things in a "haphazard way" for too long.

I like how you are using that gauge.
 
KenB259 said:
I am looking forward to seeing your cue stick blank and method. My table saw is a Jet Proshop. I could not be happier with it. It's 10 inch and performs the nickel test admirably. You got me thinking just how thin I can slice. I ran this test with just some pine scrap, hardwoods would probably work even better. I am attaching pictures. Anyone that segments will need some method of thinly slicing wood though not the extent my pictures show. View attachment 236814View attachment 236815


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Click to expand...
I love the jig! Was this the one you cut the wood for the checkerboard?

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Ok Ken

you posted a picture of your many jigs and gadgets to fascinate us all.

As , (many of us ) are under "supervision" and home , not quite alone , how about a brief picture with caption of what each does. I would never have guessed at the method is using the above jig b might have to make one now.

So how about on your jig thread giving some clues??

Thanks for considering this šŸ™
 
magpens said:
NICE !! . Thank you !!

I am going to have to make up some jigs like you show "to improve my putt" !!!

Need to get some slot guide material and some clamps like you use. . Been doing things in a "haphazard way" for too long.

I like how you are using that gauge.
Click to expand...

Mal, I make my own miter slot guides. Very easy to do, I just cut them so they have a little slop, rout usually 3 slots, then drill through the wide part of the guide. The small slots are not centered. Tap the holes to match the set screws I have. Screw in the set screws and as they push against the thin side of the slot, they tighten up. That's why you need a little slop, gives you the capability for adjustment. I have always made them out of oak, but I would guess any hardwood would work.
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howsitwork said:
Ok Ken

you posted a picture of your many jigs and gadgets to fascinate us all.

As , (many of us ) are under "supervision" and home , not quite alone , how about a brief picture with caption of what each does. I would never have guessed at the method is using the above jig b might have to make one now.

So how about on your jig thread giving some clues??

Thanks for considering this [emoji120]
Click to expand...

I can do that. [emoji52]


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@KenB259

Ken, thanks very much for the details above for your miter slot guides ... very clever !! . Never thought of making wood ones ! . Or using set screws like you show .... the tighter slide would improve things !
 
jttheclockman said:
Well tuned machines is what works best Mal. Use a bandsaw and save the kerf and less material. Again a well tuned saw can cut paper thin slices. Can do on a tablesaw as well but lose material because the size of the blade. I use a 1/16" blade if doing thin slices and use a 7-1/4" blade for that. There are a ton of videos of jigs for thin strip slicing on the net.
Click to expand...

Well John, you made me think of something I already knew. You know me and jigs, I've been wanting to be able to cut thin strips on my bandsaw for awhile and since I can't work right now, what better time. So, just finished it up. I'm using the same stop as I do on the table saw, so heck it was half built already. It's very very simple and works great. The first test run took only 1 adjustment and cut 6 inch long strips that only vary .001 anywhere along the length
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howsitwork said:
Ok Ken

you posted a picture of your many jigs and gadgets to fascinate us all.

As , (many of us ) are under "supervision" and home , not quite alone , how about a brief picture with caption of what each does. I would never have guessed at the method is using the above jig b might have to make one now.

So how about on your jig thread giving some clues??

Thanks for considering this [emoji120]
Click to expand...

Here's one I don't think I've shown before, very simple disc sander jig and it uses the same angle inserts as my main segmenting jig. Could be used to make "GISI" style blanks, but I just cut mine in the table saw. I can make any inserts at any angle that I want and use them in three different jigs.
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Ken I do the same keep it simple. Here is one of those thin strip jigs I made. I have since gone to a pro one with a ball bearing for ease of use.

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jttheclockman said:
Ken I do the same keep it simple. Here is one of those thin strip jigs I made. I have since gone to a pro one with a ball bearing for ease of use.

View attachment 236863
Click to expand...

I have some bearings , I toyed with the idea of using them on this jig. I would only have to make the one part to my jig. Do they really make that much of a difference? Only a very small area of my stop actually touches anything.


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KenB259 said:
I have some bearings , I toyed with the idea of using them on this jig. I would only have to make the one part to my jig. Do they really make that much of a difference? Only a very small area of my stop actually touches anything.


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Click to expand...
Yes because I set them up so the jig runs almost the entire length of the blank. What this does is not allow any walking away from the fence. I do not use a sled like you do which locks the board in place. Just the way I have been doing it. I again do not just do 5" pen blanks so I need to be versatile. I can saw a 24" board with a strip if need be and have at times. Many ways to do this. As I have said I will double side tape to a carrier board and attach my piece I want to cut strip with. So no need for all those clamps which again get costly. You seem to be into that stuff so that is just the way you do things. Me I am even more simple.

One thing I suggest if you can lower the blade guides on the bandsaw and keep that blade tighter because that is a small blade you are using and it will deflect very easily on a bandsaw.
 
jttheclockman said:
Yes because I set them up so the jig runs almost the entire length of the blank. What this does is not allow any walking away from the fence. I do not use a sled like you do which locks the board in place. Just the way I have been doing it. I again do not just do 5" pen blanks so I need to be versatile. I can saw a 24" board with a strip if need be and have at times. Many ways to do this. As I have said I will double side tape to a carrier board and attach my piece I want to cut strip with. So no need for all those clamps which again get costly. You seem to be into that stuff so that is just the way you do things. Me I am even more simple.

One thing I suggest if you can lower the blade guides on the bandsaw and keep that blade tighter because that is a small blade you are using and it will deflect very easily on a bandsaw.
Click to expand...

The blade guard is as low as I can go without the clamp interfering. I didn't know if it would be an issue, but so far it has worked great. I could probably get by without clamp, but we'll see how it goes.


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KenB259 said:
The blade guard is as low as I can go without the clamp interfering. I didn't know if it would be an issue, but so far it has worked great. I could probably get by without clamp, but we'll see how it goes.


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Click to expand...

I thought that maybe the case but to me too high when dealing with thin strips especially heavy grained ones. Been there done that. If you need to do that use double side tape and eliminate the clamps if just for a piece or two.
 
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