No Bubbles casting

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burgerman said:
Don, Thanks for the great tutorial. Will be very helpful. Your snakeskin blanks look great.
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You're quite welcome and thanks for the good words about my snake skin blanks. I appreciate the comments.
I'm working on label casting. This is probably a dumb question, but what exactly does the ultrasonic cleaner do?
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The ultrasonic cleaner helps expel the air that is captured in the resin. As it operated I can see little air bubbles rising to the surface. I think it helps a lot. Others don't use it and get excellent results also. I'm just not ready to give it up, yet.

How long do you let it sit in the cleaner before mixing in the MEK? What temp. setting do you have it on?
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I start the ultrasonics when I start getting ready to cast. I let it run while I get everything set up. It probably runs for 20 minutes or so. I remove the PR, add the MEKP and pour. What temp? I don't know. I use hot tap water and turn on the heater on the cleaner. It only has one setting with no temp info.

Are you able to re-use your glass jar?
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Yes, for a couple of times until the residual builds up and reduces the amount of resin I can put in the jar. I usually use them twice and chunk. We go through several jars each week from the kitchen. I cast in spurts so the jars tend to pile up.

Always glad to help. Happy casting.
Do a good turn daily!
Don

 
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Nice! The pics make a difference. It's one thing to read about it, it's another to
see it. Thanks for the tutorial.
 
Thanks guys and gals for the comments and for actually commenting. The "no pressure no vacuum"casting is working great for me....and for others too I suppose.
Do a good turn daily!
Don
 
Thanks for the pdf file and the great info. I think I'll try this way, before going to the pressure pot and so on.... My wife just ordered an Ultrasonic cleaner.

The $ is going up... But it's a blast...
 
Nitelord said:
I think I'll try this way, before going to the pressure pot and so on.... My wife just ordered an Ultrasonic cleaner...
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Does anyone here have any recommendations for any certain type or brand of ultrasonic cleaner;....... i.e., the one that is the best compromise between utility and cost?
 
One thing I do know is that the $19 plastic one at HF is crap. Mine broke. Until I get a replacement I've been using the vibrations from my bandsaw. Seems to work pretty good!
 
Ok...I never cast PR. I have skinned and tanned plenty of snakes, then I just gave them or traded them away to others. Well I got a few snakes from the neighbors pond, tanned them, got a can of Silmar 41, brass blacked my tubes, glued on skins, rubber stoppers, in silicone molds I put the skins. Heated the resin for 10 min at 150, 3 drops per ounce of catalyst, no pressure, just poured the resin, masaged the blanks with a scrollsaw blade that I bent into a j hook and the blanks look really great except for one that I didn't do that pretty of a job gluing on the skin. Never did this before with PR and Don's system really rocked them out!!! I like it. It is slow..but I think it must be that PR takes forever to cure which has nothing to do with the technique itself, and it really doesn't matter if it takes an entire day for the resin to cure..what's the hurry? Thanks Don.
 
For those that don't have an ultrasonic cleaner , you can heat the resin (and mix in your pigment if you are using it) then let the heated resin sit for awhile so the bubbles will rise to the top and pop . Then when you mix in your catalyst be careful not to create any new bubbles and carefully pour into one end of your mold again being careful not to create any bubbles and follow the rest of Don's instructions . You really don't need a pressure pot for PR .
 
You're welcome Jeff. I'm glad it worked for you. Not using vacuum and pressure sure make casting snake skin blanks a lot more fun and easier.
Now, show us a pen.
Do a good turn daily!
Don

workinforwood said:
Ok...I never cast PR. I have skinned and tanned plenty of snakes, then I just gave them or traded them away to others. Well I got a few snakes from the neighbors pond, tanned them, got a can of Silmar 41, brass blacked my tubes, glued on skins, rubber stoppers, in silicone molds I put the skins. Heated the resin for 10 min at 150, 3 drops per ounce of catalyst, no pressure, just poured the resin, masaged the blanks with a scrollsaw blade that I bent into a j hook and the blanks look really great except for one that I didn't do that pretty of a job gluing on the skin. Never did this before with PR and Don's system really rocked them out!!! I like it. It is slow..but I think it must be that PR takes forever to cure which has nothing to do with the technique itself, and it really doesn't matter if it takes an entire day for the resin to cure..what's the hurry? Thanks Don.
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Ok that does it. Once I can get some money saved up I am getting some Resin Saver Molds. Just need to get that job first. :(
 
I notice this is a older thread but what a great thread. This is what this forum is all about in my opinion. Thanks to those that are so willing to share their experiences and knowledge. I intend to try some casting this fall and I will save this thread for reference.


Thanks to those that contributed.
 
Just came across this thread after seeing a demo of mold making last weekend at Southeast IAP Chapter meeting.

Ordered some Resin Saver molds from NewLondon88 and looking forward to PR casting (Hope you come out with a mold for the Polaris pen soon Charlie).

Looks like I can save the cost (and aggravation) of the pressure pot or vacuum chamber.
 
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