Latest Aquisition

[vanngo5d]

I know it can do external theads but it is possible to cut internal threads as well ?

Don

 

[Rich L]

... and wont need my taps and dies anymore. I got sick of the size restrictions you have to live by with taps and dies, or else spend many a few hundred dollars to get many different sizes of triple start taps and dies. I also want to move beyond the triple start thread to the quad start thread like in the old school pens. Try to find a quad start tap and die, and if you can have one made im sure it will cost around $200 to have one size made.

It's a good exercise and very satisfying to single point multi-lead threads on a manual lathe. The recipe is precise and time-consuming. I've baked that cake! Multipy your time by the number of leads and you're well into midnight.

Have fun! :wink:

Cheers,
Rich

 

[Simplex]

I know it can do external theads but it is possible to cut internal threads as well ?

Don

I was wondering about that, too. The smallest internal threading tool I found was 1/4"; however, your minimum bore diameter needs to be 1/2" which would lead to a very large pen. I have a metal lathe, too, but I don't use it for threading for this very reason. Maybe I'm missing something....

 

[Rounder]

Know where to get a 1" thick 5" diameter mild steel plate for cheep:biggrin:

Justin, I know EXACTLY where you could get a piece of 1" thick steel CHEAP!
I can get one from work if you want.

 

[Timebandit]

I know it can do external theads but it is possible to cut internal threads as well ?

Don

Yes it can. This lathe can thread internal and external as well as left hand and right hand threads.

... and wont need my taps and dies anymore. I got sick of the size restrictions you have to live by with taps and dies, or else spend many a few hundred dollars to get many different sizes of triple start taps and dies. I also want to move beyond the triple start thread to the quad start thread like in the old school pens. Try to find a quad start tap and die, and if you can have one made im sure it will cost around $200 to have one size made.

It's a good exercise and very satisfying to single point multi-lead threads on a manual lathe. The recipe is precise and time-consuming. I've baked that cake! Multipy your time by the number of leads and you're well into midnight.

Have fun! :wink:

Cheers,
Rich

Thanks Rich, i have heard others who tried it and didnt like it...im the opposite, im old school even though im really new school. I dont mind a little extra time, im in no rush like most folks are to finish a pen. My turning will go faster, so i will have the extra bit of time for the threading. Im also not sure why people have so much time getting set up and cutting threads. I can set up within 5 minutes and be cutting threads. Not sure why so much extra time for the leads, but i dont forsee doing multiple leads adding more than 5 minutes onto my time. Your just advancing the topslide 1/4 the pitch for every cut and im only cutting 1/4" long so it shouldnt add much time. Already been working on it and i really cant see a problem.

Justin

I know it can do external theads but it is possible to cut internal threads as well ?

Don

I was wondering about that, too. The smallest internal threading tool I found was 1/4"; however, your minimum bore diameter needs to be 1/2" which would lead to a very large pen. I have a metal lathe, too, but I don't use it for threading for this very reason. Maybe I'm missing something....

I have a micro-boring bar that is less than 1/4" diameter and only requires a 1/4" bore to thread. This will allow me to thread everything but the smallest fountain pen feeds on the market.

Know where to get a 1" thick 5" diameter mild steel plate for cheep:biggrin:

Justin, I know EXACTLY where you could get a piece of 1" thick steel CHEAP!
I can get one from work if you want.

I thought about that:biggrin: Might have to do it. What do others think? Should i go with the cast iron or would a nice 1" thick piece of mild steel work?

 

[Rounder]

Know where to get a 1" thick 5" diameter mild steel plate for cheep:biggrin:

Justin, I know EXACTLY where you could get a piece of 1" thick steel CHEAP!
I can get one from work if you want.

I thought about that:biggrin: Might have to do it. What do others think? Should i go with the cast iron or would a nice 1" thick piece of mild steel work?

This wouldn't be cast iron, this would be mild steel or better.

 

[Timebandit]

Know where to get a 1" thick 5" diameter mild steel plate for cheep:biggrin:

Justin, I know EXACTLY where you could get a piece of 1" thick steel CHEAP!
I can get one from work if you want.

I thought about that:biggrin: Might have to do it. What do others think? Should i go with the cast iron or would a nice 1" thick piece of mild steel work?

This wouldn't be cast iron, this would be mild steel or better.

I know, i was talking about the grizzly backplate for $51. Most backplates are made from cast iron, but im wondering if its really necessary, especially given the materials i will be cutting most. Im sure the steel should dampen enough, yes.

 

[rherrell]

Justin, if a D1-3 will work here's one.....
CDCO Machinery Corp.

I just tried that link and it just takes you to the site, do a site search for "D1 Type Adaptors" and you'll find it.

I bought one and machined it to fit an er40 collet plate. I have a D1-3 spindle but like that thread said, you can throw the D1 studs away and drill and tap it to fit what you have.

THE PRICE IS RIGHT!!!

 

[Timebandit]

Justin, if a D1-3 will work here's one.....
CDCO Machinery Corp.

I bought one and machined it to fit an er40 collet plate. I have a D1-3 spindle but like that thread said, you can throw the D1 studs away and drill and tap it to fit what you have.

Thats the thing, im not sure if it will. Also, if i take those bolt out and re tap it, do the bolt holes in my bison chuck line up with these. Thats where im not sure that the D1-3 plate is even needed. Also i got the Set-tru colet chuck so i would need to machine that one to have almost 1/2" lip that recesses into the back of the colet chuck to use the adjustable set screws. Not sure if this plate is thick enough. I need at least 1". Can you tell me the benefit of buying one of those?

 

[Rich L]

...im the opposite, im old school even though im really new school. I dont mind a little extra time, im in no rush like most folks are to finish a pen...

I'm just pulling your leg here but if you want to go old school - try it this way! :wink:

This happens to be an 1816 version of a lead screw. Just one version, anyway. It will definitely slow down the rush.

Cheers,
Rich

 

[PenPal]

Hi Justin,

From over here to you where did you get the micro boring bar under !/4 inch I have longed for one or two to have a back up.

We live on a large Island see my Avartar but our total population would make a medium city in the US plus we are scattered around the seaboard.

Join with the others in sharing your enthusiasm.

Kind regards Peter.

 

[Rich L]

If I might jump in ...

Try MSC part # 09884503 and others related. Also Carmex and other folks make indexable bars for small diameters.

I'm sure some of these folks do island delivery If not, I'd be happy to deliver in person. (!)

Cheers,
Rich

 

[Timebandit]

Hi Justin,

From over here to you where did you get the micro boring bar under !/4 inch I have longed for one or two to have a back up.

We live on a large Island see my Avartar but our total population would make a medium city in the US plus we are scattered around the seaboard.

Join with the others in sharing your enthusiasm.

Kind regards Peter.

Peter, i got the micro boring bar from Grizzly T10248 Solid Carbide Mini Boring Bar - 5mm Shank, Right-handAnd the micro threading bar is a carmex brand, but dont remember where i bought it. Here it is elsewhere for about the same price i paid Carbide Shank Boring Bar, SIR0205H06CB - Indexable Boring Bars - Indexable Tools - 4PMP7 : Grainger Industrial Supply

 

[PenPal]

Thanks Justin, Great starting point thank you mate.

Kind regards Peter.

 

[MattTheHat]

It's funny what you run across searching for stuff. I've been looking at that lathe to replace my 10x22 Grizzly for a few months now.

Just a thought about triple and quad start threading on the lathe (time consuming) versus using a tap (expensive)...

You could always MAKE the tap (and die) of your choice on the lathe and use it while making your pens to save time. Best of both worlds. I was searching for others who might have already done this when I ran across this thread.

I figure I'll just be threading various plastics and wood, so I won't even have to harden the tap and die when done. I have a milling machine, so cutting the grooves for the flutes would be easy. With care, I'd guess it could be done with a stationary belt sander.


-Matt

 

[Timebandit]

It's funny what you run across searching for stuff. I've been looking at that lathe to replace my 10x22 Grizzly for a few months now.

Just a thought about triple and quad start threading on the lathe (time consuming) versus using a tap (expensive)...

You could always MAKE the tap (and die) of your choice on the lathe and use it while making your pens to save time. Best of both worlds. I was searching for others who might have already done this when I ran across this thread.

I figure I'll just be threading various plastics and wood, so I won't even have to harden the tap and die when done. I have a milling machine, so cutting the grooves for the flutes would be easy. With care, I'd guess it could be done with a stationary belt sander.


-Matt

Il be honest, im not looking to save a few minutes. I realize that most people want to make a pen as fast as they can, and then make another, and another. Im in no hurry, and i like doing the hands on old school kind of thing. I dont like taps and dies. I dont like there restrictions. I dont really mind changing the gears that everyone complains about. I also realize that most people dont want to have to think about the math that it takes to cut the threads, not just one, but multiple threads. They just want to slap a tap or die on there and have it cut the threads for them. Its actually really easy, just takes a few minutes to learn. Im actually ordering extra sets of gears so that i can have the sets together and ready to go so that i dont have to change spacers and things. Just pop one set off and pop the other on:biggrin: Also i dont want to spend all the time that it would take to make said taps and dies only to be restricted by them again. The second i want to make a different size pen, i now have to make a new tap and die:frown: No thanks. I could have already made the pen in the time it would take to make the tap and die to make said pen. I want freedom and taps and dies take that away.

 

[MattTheHat]

In that case, you should have a blast! You're 100% correct about the thinking and math part of it. I try to avoid as much of that kind of thing as possible!

It's a very nice machine, I'm guessing you're going to really it.


-Matt