Laser Inlay Pen Kits

[edstreet]

If it is truly stabilized wood then the wood will not move when wet, least it SHOULD not move anyways. Same with the 'soften' remarks made. At most the soap, water, etc. would help lubricate the parts scraping together as they are moved into place.

I forgot to correct this one earlier... I think there's some confusion as to use of the term "stabilized" here. I believe Constant is using it to describe wood that has been kiln dried to a known %MC, but it can change its MC based upon ambient conditions. When most of us use the word here on IAP, we're thinking of resin-infused wood, which is not affected by moisture. The laser kits do not (to my knowledge) use resin-infused wood, so we're talking about raw wood.

I see. My assumption was that stabilized context here is well stabilized wood; not kiln dried lumber. There is a HUGE difference and yes my meter does indeed read 12% MC on many/most raw woods down here in Georgia/Alabama.

I do know that one of the other vendors does indeed use stabilized wood, i.e. the true stabilized woods as in resin-infused.

 

[tjseagrove]

I prefer the almost indetectable break to the very visible kerf, but that's just me.:laugh:

Off the wall idea, but what if you placed the small pieces (but not the main body) in the oven at lowest temp for about 10 minutes? If there is any residual moisture making the pieces swell, this would bake it out of them and shrink them, even if only for half an hour (long enough to get them all inserted).

It would certainly rule out swelling of the wood causing the issue...

Another option would be to place all the parts in a bag with a desiccant pack for maybe an hour or so...

 

[Constant Laubscher]

Humidity is most likely not the problem.

 

[brownsfn2]

I have had kits from both sources and think both are good.

I think this thread does need something though:

Constant - I have watched that same pen being made on that CNC lathe over a dozen times now. Can you do another video?

I love watching that thing work.

 

[CabinetMaker]

Breaking a piece before installing it actually makes for a better pattern. If you cut it with a laser there will be a burn line. On light colored woods this will be particularly noticeable. On the other hand, if you carefully break it and then press the two pieces in the break line will be invisible in the finished pen.

 

[76winger]

I use soapy water. I don't soak the parts but dip it in then insert it into the cutout. Works well for me.

I do the same process only I leave the soap out and still get good results.

Sent from my iPad using Forum Runner

 

[Bear-31]

I have assembled quite a few laser kits from Kallenshaan Woods and Lazerlinz. The tighter the kit the better the finished product will look and the harder it can be to assemble. They work a fine line keeping the balance. I actually like the kits that require a break because it has more of the "how did they do that" look to it. The kits that I have done that require a break when finished you could not see the break ...even under magnification. It requires patience as well as clean hands to make sure the color of the wood isn't changed while handling.

The 2 vendors I mentioned have their specialties and they are both very good at them. I like some of each of them. I also note that both vendors have superb customer service and have been very helpful to me in the past...both with instructions and replacement parts/kits when things went wrong.

I also use the soap and warm water on the tight parts. On those kits, once assembled without glue, I wrap masking tape (blue painters) around to hold all the pieces in and set asside for a few days to dry before gluing tube in. Before gluing the tube in I roll the tubes gently....but firm between 2 pieces of wood to ensure all pieces are in as far as they will go and haven't shimmied out. Remove tape and coat/saturate entire assembled piece with thin CA to lock everything in place.

While turning I will occasionally dribble more thin CA into any spot that it might not have gotten into on the first saturation.

I know most of this has already been mentioned, but I just wanted to put my experiences with the kits. I hope it helps out a little.

 

[Golfbuddy45]

Besides Ken's excellent laser kits, I've also made a lot of Constant's kits (Lazerlinez.com) and have had great results with them as well. After a failed stars & stories attempt a couple years ago I learned to dip all of the parts in warm water during assembly. They go together MUCH easier when softened by the water on the surface. Sent from my iPad using Forum Runner

I have done lots of laser inlay kits and like them very much for the specialty topics they represent but the GEARS KIT is terribly difficult to get together - I destroyed two complete kits and still did not get one right.

Could you give a little more details about wetting the parts before assembly? Soaking them or just a little damp? How long to dry before finishing?

Thanks,

GB45

 

[76winger]

I dip in warm water for about 10 seconds the bring the part over and place in it respective place in the main body. Once all pieces at assembled I pull the brass tube back out and leave setting overnight at least before saturating with thin CA to bond everything together (no tube at this point). After the assembled an glued assembly dries for a few more hours ill then paint the inside, usually black, to block any possibility of the brass tube showing through a slight gap. Leave that to dry overnight and then your ready to glue the tube in place and saw/sand the ends to match the end of the tube. Don't use a barrel trimmer or you end up with a busted inlay after all this work!

 

[GDGeorge]

As long as we're resurrecting the thread, I'll plug the Wood-n-Whimsies kits. They come pre-assembled which is a huge benefit in my world. The only other ones I've tried are Contant's from Laserlinez. They are really nice looking but rather complex to assemble in some cases. (I'm thinking the EGA and the Navy emblem specifically. My patience runs out!) They are really nice looking though.

Tthe really nice thing about Constant's kits (aside from the looks) is that there is a huge selection. WoodNWhimsies is slowly increasing theirs but Laserlines has a much larger selection. (Not to mention his periodic sales... Thanks Constant!)

Not affiliated in any way with either company... Just my $.02.

 

[JCochrun]

Has anyone done the herringbone inlay kit? I've got it and the puzzle piece kit to make. The herringbone looks like it might be quite challenging.

Jim