Zirnike
Member
Thanks, Rick, added to my favorites for future work. I have to learn a lot about metals, i.e., so many (I guess) hardness', thickness. It also looks to me like it would be worth buying brass tube from a place like Online Metals, wouldn't it, instead of buying the short lengths from a pen kit selling place?
I've gotta work on a kitless myself, because a lot of these look cool (and the rest are good, they just aren't my style). However, I can help with this. If you want to send me a message or something about a particular metal, I have the Bible (engineers and machinist's bible: Handbook of Machinary (I went to look up the spelling, and can't find it right now... But I will is anyone asks. (it's the only other book I've seen that uses those really thin pages)
On the other hand, as a rule of thumb, I'd say carbide + coolent for stainless steel and the harder aluminums, and softer ones you can probably get away with a normal bit (not brad point (and note I didn't say 'cheap'... If you're doing metal, carbide or HSS) and plenty of coolant. Brass, be careful of, because it can 'catch' (a machinist friend knew someone who was trying to mill some brass by hand (not a bright idea...), and it caught and shattered his forearm), so make sure your vice is secure to the table. I'd think the softer aluminums might be like that, too. Titanium, same as Al (it's not strong per volume, but per weight). Gold is way too hard for an amateur to deal with... send it to me. I'll even get rid of the chips for you, and rough it out, free of charge.
For different materials, different speeds are better (like in wood). There's a table in the bible, I believe.
'course, this is a 'theory' engineer's opinion. See a machinist for better advice.