IM done with CA

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I use VIVA paper towels, starting with 2 coats of thin CA then swap to the delrin bushings, then between 6-8 coats of medium CA, using aerosol accelerant. I sand with a sanding block for the first 2 grits (320 and 400) then go to hand sanding from there out.

only problem I tend to have is sanding thru, but haven't done that in a while. :rolleyes:

don't give up.
 
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now I can't tell which one to try, but if you try all these suggestions, one by one then you are bound to get better at one of them by the time your done. Practice makes perfect.
Good luck. Wait 'til I start turning then you'll see that my head is going to spin not on my neck probably on the lathe. We have way too many techniques that members have developed here. And if one notices it's coming down to individual style.








http://www.sweetim.com/s.asp?im=gen&lpver=3&ref=12&p={43775E35-E640-4A49-80C4-83B7E68B9580}
 
CA finish

Caden, try several of the procedures that have been given to you. I always use Bounty paper towels. If you are still having difficulty, we could work on it when the Washington group meets in September.

Craig Chatterton
Puyallup, WA
 
It took me 2 years to find one that works consistant for me. I'm not even going to tell how I do it because everyones way is different. Mine would be no better way than the other guys.
Just keep on trying.
 
I use the blue paper towels or shop towels they can be found in the automotive sec at your local wal-mart. they work great no lint and will not stick to your work. I cut mine about a inch wide and fold three or four times. I also use the blo-med CA but remember it only takes a drop of blo.[ that is boiled linseed oil.] apply that till it heats up then go with the med CA about 3 or 4 drops and go back and fourth until it heats up then go back to the blo and so on until you have the rite gloss that you want..
 
Butch's description of "the only CA finish that works" is priceless. Some of the techniques that I have seen posted on this site come very close to his description.
 
How high is the humidity in your area?

Ours is about 7% except during monsoon when it gets up around 30% or so. I've been using medium CA and blo and haven't had any problems, but is there a better way in the very low humidity?
 
PenMan1 said:
I finish only with medium CA in the summer. The humidity gets up near 100% and the temperature is nearly 100 degrees daily. While the temperature DOES affect CA glue, the humidity is much worse for the finish.

In the winter months when the humidity is around 45 percent, thin CA works wonderfully, But during the summer months it is impossible to use here (lake environment).

How high is the humidity in your area? If it gets above 65%, you may just want to try your current method using medium CA.

I hope this helps.
Click to expand...

Andy , this just goes to show that CA finishes work differently for everyone. I use only thin CA and my weather conditions are very close to your. I live just a block off the Tennessee river and we've had temps hovering around 100 and high humidity. My application of thin CA doesn't change with the seasons...granted it takes a few minutes longer in the winter. My shop is heated in the winter but not cooled in the summer.
 
Let me add a positive note to this discussion - I think I'm gradually learning how to do a CA finish.

Sand from 150 through 800 grit. Wipe down with DNA
.
Wearing a rubber glove, apply a coating of BLO using a small strip of blue paper towel with the lathe running at its lowest speed. Then, put a couple of drops of thin CA onto the oily patch on the paper towel and apply to the turning with the lathe at its lowest speed. Rub briskly along the length of the turning. Wait a couple of seconds, then apply a few drops of BLO on another bit of towel, put a couple of drops of CA on top of that, and apply to the turning. Repeat the process 6-8 times. Finally, polish the surface using a plastic polish (something I bought at the automotive store).

Seems to work very well with most woods - does not work well with cherry or rosewood - they seem to simply soak up the CA with no obviously buildup.
 
Butch, Mark and others will tell you I was were you are at about 1 month back. I was so done with CA finishing I couldn't see straight. I got several suggestions, and even experimented on my own. I then came to a finish I am now happy with using on every pen I do. Yes it can be improved on, but that will happen over time. I have tried other finishing methods and I find while challenging CA is the way to go for me. Just practice, try various methods, mix n match them. And don't be afraid to try something if you think of it. Hang in there and give it more time, I personally know how frustrating it can be.
 
I agree with robutacion

I went to the same website http://www.cafinish.com/, got the DVD and followed Eric's instructions. I made three pens using his techniques and holy cow, what a perfect and consistent CA finish. Talk about a perfectly clear super high gloss finish. You won't get a better finish. CA/BLO sucks compared to this finish.
 
I'm using the white micro mesh papers you can get for cleaning glasses. It doesn't suck the CA up like a towel and it's extremely smooth.
 
Something I've not seen mentioned.....

...and this made a big difference for me..... I started off trying to apply CA as described in most of the articles and videos and it went ok but it was a crap shoot whether the paper towel would stick or the glue would dry smooth or clear.... I finally took the "walk before you run" approach and tried with the lathe off. I folded up a paper towel so the glue doesn't soak thru, I put quite a few drops of thin CA on the stationary blank, then spun the lathe by hand with one hand and wiped the CA on with the other. Once I'd made one or two revolutions gently wiping the CA on I'd let it dry without accelerator. Then I'd apply another coat same way till I was done.... then MM and polish. Having a good feeling for how the glue dries and spreads and smooths at low speed did WONDERS for how well I could work with it at high speed.

HTH
 
hagsmich said:
I went to the same website http://www.cafinish.com/, got the DVD and followed Eric's instructions. I made three pens using his techniques and holy cow, what a perfect and consistent CA finish. Talk about a perfectly clear super high gloss finish. You won't get a better finish. CA/BLO sucks compared to this finish.
Click to expand...

I have been very happy with my BLO/CA finishes, except for the occasional dull spots. I just ordered the DVD out of curiosity. I am open to anything that is better, ...period.

Lauren
 
As has already been stated over and over "THERE IS NO SINGLE WAY TO APPLY A CA FINISH THAT WORKS FOR EVERYONE EVERYTIME" . There are way too many variables to be considered . If you have a system that works for you then stick with it .... until "IT" happens and your system goes south , big time . Don't worry , it will happen .
Start with the simplest method and then adjust it until you are happy with it . Some use Bounty and Blo , some use Viva and thin CA . There really is no rocket science here , no voodoo , no magic chant , it's just a matter of practice and patience .
My favorite is still the simplest method of 3 coats of thick with a little time between each coat . No BLO or accelerator or yellow socks . If you are just starting out , try it then complicate the hell out of it if you want or stick with simple and just get it done .
 
OK, got the DVD, watched it and tried the technique. It is indeed flawless, easy, and consistent. Check the photos I posted this evening, on the "showoff" forum and member's photos to see examples. I will not go back to BLO! This is me after looking at my finishes. :biggrin:
 
I got the DVD too. I have yet to try his method, but I have learned some very valuable tips (like turning between centers instead of on a mandrel). I can't wait to try it out. I am not as concerned about the gloss of the finish as I am about the chatoyance of the wood. I like the BLO/CA look, but if this is better I will switch!
 
I agree with DCBluesman's recommendation to try lacquer, but I think that if you are having problems with CA glue, you may also have problems with lacquer.

My methods for using CA is described with words, photos, and videos on my website at:

http://www.woodturner-russ.com/PenPages-FinishingPens-CAglue.html

I use this method because it is simple and it works every time for me. If you choose to change the methds described, you are on your own.

The 2 most common problems with hardwoods are moisture and natural oils in the wood. The vendors do not sell dry wood. Hardwoods take a long time to dry, and the center of the piece is the last to dry. Turn the pen a bit over-sized and then let it sit for a month. Your problem should go away.

Another common problem is natural oil in the wood. Always remove the surface oils with a lacquer thinner before applying the CA glue.
 
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I started with CA in the Spring. The method I use now is completely different, gets better, more consistent results, and I don't use micro-mesh any more.

I have my lathe on at full speed, smear on a drop of BLO with paper towel, then do the same with a drop or two of medium CA. I repeat this sequence 8 to 10 times. I'll post a couple pictures later.

I experimented with BLO and CA on the paper towel at the same time, and I got a lot of splattering with that method.
 
I tried the method from the DVD. I don't think the quality of the finish is any better than BLO/CA but it is not worse either. The application seems easier but not by much. There is more sanding but again not much. I tried it on a pre-turned tube that wouldn't take a BLO/CA finish. It looks great!

I'm not going to stop using BLO/CA but I am definately adding this method to my bag of tricks.

Please note, I am a beginner. I can produce consistantly good results with BLO/CA. This is the only time I have used the DVD method. However, I cannot see any reason why it would not be repeatable.
 
When I use the BLO/CA finish I used blue shop towels and usually apply 3-4 coats of thin and then 3-5 coats of med. learned via phone from RAdams. most times it seems like I don't have to sand after. But if I do there is not much sanding I have to do.
 
CA glue finish has got to be the most discussed topic in the penturning community. I've had both brilliant successes and devestating failures with it. With soft burls and spalted lumber CA glue is almost required IMO.

A hard shiny CA finish has become the halmark of quality penmaking craftsmanship.

With that said I sure love a EEE Ultra shine and Shellawax finish. It's fast and easy. It looks good. The pen feels wonderfully silky smooth and luxurious in the hand and it even smells good. It just isn't as durable.
 
I am curious about the DVD. I did some searching and found out that Eric Anderson was a member of IAP around Jan 2010 (Builderguy) and has made about 22 posts. His current status with IAP is "banned". A good percentage of his posts involved asking questions about CA finish, CA/BLO finish and between center turning.

My question concerning the DVD is: It the technique for applying CA fundamentally new or just a rehash of methods discussed on IAP? I know he sells the DVD for around $20 so I am not asking anyone to reveal specifics.
 
I watched the four videos he put on You Tube before the DVD came out. I did not buy the DVD so can't answer that part. I do know that the four that I watched were very well put together and fun to watch. I don't why he was banned though. None of my business I guess. Seen more then one name lately that was banned.
 
CA

I use only CA for my finishes. Here's how I do it that works every time. Use one of the small plastic bags you pen parts come in e.g., the bag the pen tip might be in. Run the lathe at 400-500 rpms. Put a couple of drops on the pen blank and run the bag across several times quickly. It will not stick like paper. Do this a couple of times and accelerate. Sand and your good to go.:)
 
I used to be able to do a CA finish reasonably well-- it would turn out beautifully smooth and slick and even.


But. There would be hazy spots.

I did this in an air conditioned room, on many days. Humidity was the issue that was most often thrown around.... but I can't see how an air conditioned room, over the course of the 6 months I tried the CA finish, could always be the culprit.


Either way, after wasting several bottles of CA (through several brands and thicknesses) I said "to hell with it".


Got out my spray gun and conversion varnish (a catalyzed lacquer product used by production cabinet shops). Viola, problem solved.
 
It seems like 1/2 of the members of this site use almost as many different methods for finishing with CA glue because it works for them. The other 1/2 don't use CA glue because none of the methods used by the others will work for them.

There are four ways to apply a CA glue - CA glue by itself, CA glue followed by BLO, BLO followed by CA glue, and a complex application of CA glue and a bunch of other things. I personally use CA by itself when I want a high gloss finish on the pen. I use one of the CA and BLO applications when I want a satain finish with no gloss because that's the only way it works for me. I never use the complicated methods because I can't remember them and they take too long.
 
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