Glossy finish on wood

[jrista]

Mark,
You bring up something that isn't talked about much, but many good pen makers are gravitating towards more and more - Not consumed with Speed/Time in making a pen.

I remember several threads over the years, especially 8 or 10 years ago and before - on how fast can you make a pen.

Then there is CA, which is reasonably hard, and it allows a decent finish that "time wise" is in proportion to the construction. 30 minutes to 1 hour for construction and 30 minutes for finish. Even in flat work, in general, most people do not like spending as much time in the "finish" process as the construction process. This is where "Excellent" gives way to "just good enough to get by."

I am seeing more and more posts from very good pen makers/turners who allow for overall longer finish times in proportion to construction time. Granted, for segments of all kinds and in particularly the kind that you make, your finish time may still be less than some of your construction time. However, it is good to see that the longer finish times are getting recognition, as you mentioned, and as "Farmer" has posted in this thread and a few other threads. It has always been a "given" that Urushi finishes take a long time - 10 days minimum to 30 days. But to see a few other finishes with great qualities come to the forefront that are lasting and tough too - is a good sign for quality pen making.

Early days in pen turning here - polys were used off and on but with no great overall results. I think that the mentality was to finish the pen -after "too short of a curing time", and that hurt the finish; OR, using the wrong kind of poly or other finish that did not have enough good long term protective characteristics for pens.

Thank you (and farmer) for your continued hunt for a better finish. While an overall quality finish can had with CA, There are other quality finishes (and sometimes better than CA) that can be obtained if the proper time is put into it.

I want to second the sentiments here. I didn't spend much time on the finishing part of my turnings in my first year or so. I spend significantly more time finishing now...regardless of the kind of turned item, or its size. In fact, with sanding and finishing combined, sometimes I may spend even more time on the finishing than the turning. With sharp tools and an idea of what you want, the turning part can actually go pretty quickly, leaving you with more time to spend on finish.

 

[MedWoodWorx]

A silly question for seasoned penturners: i have heard (and seen) that musical instruments are finished with shellac. Not just shellac but a shellac recipe of some kind. The finish however is deep as if its lacquer. I suppose no craftsman wants to reveal all his secrets so other ingredients might be used also. Is it possible that such a finish to be achieved after many coats of just shellac? Even if its not as hard and sturdy as ca it may worth the effort, cheers.

 

[jttheclockman]

A silly question for seasoned penturners: i have heard (and seen) that musical instruments are finished with shellac. Not just shellac but a shellac recipe of some kind. The finish however is deep as if its lacquer. I suppose no craftsman wants to reveal all his secrets so other ingredients might be used also. Is it possible that such a finish to be achieved after many coats of just shellac? Even if its not as hard and sturdy as ca it may worth the effort, cheers.

https://www.lmii.com/blog/2017/10/07/french-polish-finish/

 

[leehljp]

https://www.lmii.com/blog/2017/10/07/french-polish-finish/

WOW: "The complete French polishing process as outlined here will take 15 to 20 days to complete"

I was surprised to see the 600 SandPaper mentioned as an intermediate step followed by 1200. That is great.

Some 14-15-16 years ago in another thread (don't know exactly when) someone mentioned that MicroMesh 12000 was used on helicopters to polish the scratches out of the polycarbonate windshields and plates. Helicopters stir up dust that produces scratches rather quickly. Super fine Scratches show up quickly on those lenses and can quickly blind the pilot in certain conditions. Therefore, getting the fine scratches that are normally not seen - getting them out becomes a necessity. That said, I learned that taking a finished pen outside, even in an overcast day can reveal super fine scratches.

I have read of the French Polish method on this forum numerous times, but never looked the full process up as John linked. THANKS John. I have a new respect for the French polish process now. I don't think I have ever taken more than several days to finish a pen, although 30+ years ago, I spent three weeks (by accident - unintentionally doing a T.O. the right way - because I could not read the the Japanese language instructions at that time) in a Tung Oil finish process that to this day is still hard and satin smooth. Time does help in the finish process.

 

[farmer]

Oh...I think I see what you are saying now. My apologies for the misunderstanding.

Yeah, I think poly will be one of my go-to finishes, and Pens Plus the other. I've tried lacquers, water based finishes, and haven't really enjoyed working with them or the results I get. I'm not really a fan of water-based in general, for any wood items. Water based poly, or polycrylic, for example, just don't seem to penetrate the wood like an oil based poly, or any oil based finish, and I've not cared for the look of them in the end.

No issues

My go to finish is epoxy .
works every time as long I have the proper climate control .
My lathes will be rotating for about a week non stop.

I have dabbled using a UV finish Solarez .
most durable finish I have seen and really shines up like glass
I like it but another different kind of learning curve ..

My favorite is Emron automotive clear .
I don't have paint booth and is illegal in a few states to sale or use . extremely toxic .

 

[Fotoman]

I dry sand my wood pens with micro mesh up to 12000, then I put some BLO on a blue shop towel and hold it to the rotating (approx 1000 rpm) pen while I drop about 3 drops of CA onto the pen. I wipe the shop towel back and forth quickly until it dries. I repeat for 8 coats. I get a glass like surface that lasts a long long time.

My 2 cents worth.