Facet-O-Rama lathe-top faceting jig

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PersonMakeObject

PersonMakeObject

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Hello Penturners!

The IAP asked if I would share some information about the simple lathe-top router jig I made to cut facets.

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facet riser.png


The document is a work in progress, but I thought I would share what I have so far to see if there's feedback or suggestions on what I might add as well as general format. There's a working draft of the guide attached as a .pdf or a Google doc HERE.

Since a picture is worth a thousand words, I also made a short video explainer of the jig and how I use it.

Ask questions if you've got them and feel free to make any suggestions you have.

Cheers and Make On!
- kevin from PersonMakeObject

 

Attachments

  • Facet-O-Rama.pdf
    2.2 MB · Views: 46
  • Facet-O-Rama.pdf
    2.2 MB · Views: 50
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This is brilliant, thank you for sharing!

First question is how do you do the tapered sides?
 
Nice jig Kevin. If you have been following any threads on the forum you my notice that there are a few of us who use a router in conjunction with a lathe and use different mounting methods. I am one of those people but I use a platform and a small detail router. Mine as well as your can probably do about the same things but different angles. I come at it from the side as you come at it from the top. You can also make slots in a blank and then fill with materials. Then you could do the hex look. here is mine.

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d_bondi said:
This is brilliant, thank you for sharing!

First question is how do you do the tapered sides?
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Thanks David!

Tapering is one of the things I have to add to the guide. All it takes is an adjustable offset center in the tailstock and setting it up to the taper angle desired. After that the rest is the same as in the video.

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jttheclockman said:
Nice jig Kevin. If you have been following any threads on the forum you my notice that there are a few of us who use a router in conjunction with a lathe and use different mounting methods. I am one of those people but I use a platform and a small detail router. Mine as well as your can probably do about the same things but different angles. I come at it from the side as you come at it from the top. You can also make slots in a blank and then fill with materials. Then you could do the hex look. here is mine.

View attachment 381313View attachment 381314View attachment 381315View attachment 381316View attachment 381317
Click to expand...
Beautiful work John! I did see some side mount jigs, but didn't notice whose and honestly didn't do much research. It was more of an instance of having a problem, getting an idea of how to solve the problem, and rolling with the idea. I can certainly see some advantages and additional applications to an adjustable height, side mounted jig - visibility especially. That said, the solution I came up with has exceeded my expectations functionally, expecially considering the time and materials put into making it.
Cheers and Make On!
 
PersonMakeObject said:
Thanks David!

Tapering is one of the things I have to add to the guide. All it takes is an adjustable offset center in the tailstock and setting it up to the taper angle desired. After that the rest is the same as in the video.

View attachment 381338
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Click to expand...

Ah, that makes sense. I guess having paid attention in geometry class could pay off here. :oops:

I'd like to know more about the adjustable offset center. Is it something you had made or is it readily available somewhere?
 
d_bondi said:
Ah, that makes sense. I guess having paid attention in geometry class could pay off here. :oops:

I'd like to know more about the adjustable offset center. Is it something you had made or is it readily available somewhere?
Click to expand...
The adjustable offset centers are readily available on Amazon and Ebay in MT2 and MT3 tapers.
A search for "lathe taper turning attachment" should get you to many options.
Here's the one I got (free slow shipping from India).
 
jttheclockman said:
How was the bearing on the cone? Did it spin with no friction?
Click to expand...
This one has a dead center. I'm only using it to cut facets on stock that I've previously turned to a taper conventionally, so it's actually beneficial that the center isn't free spinning. There are versions available with live centers but they seem less common.
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Thanks for the info. I may have to pick one of these up and play around with it. I would use wedges on my platform to give a slanted look. This looks like an easier method. Thanks. I love jigs. if you have any other jigs that you use for different applications, please share.
 
I purchased the adjustable offset center and a 1" surfacing bit.

Now I just need to do some math for my Jet 1221VS and dig through my Baltic Birch scraps. I think I may make the top in two layers, 1/4" base and 1/2" with the router base cutout, that way I can cut it out to fit instead of drilling/routing it out.

I also want to noodle on how to work dust collection for it. May have to fire up the 3D printer for that part...
 
PersonMakeObject said:
Hello Penturners!

The IAP asked if I would share some information about the simple lathe-top router jig I made to cut facets.

View attachment 381306 View attachment 381309

The document is a work in progress, but I thought I would share what I have so far to see if there's feedback or suggestions on what I might add as well as general format. There's a working draft of the guide attached as a .pdf or a Google doc HERE.

Since a picture is worth a thousand words, I also made a short video explainer of the jig and how I use it.

Ask questions if you've got them and feel free to make any suggestions you have.

Cheers and Make On!
- kevin from PersonMakeObject
Click to expand...
Thats a very informative and well shot video, thanks for sharing. Is there a possibility to add an indexing fixture to a woodlathe/chuck ? Cheers
 
PersonMakeObject said:
Thanks David!

Tapering is one of the things I have to add to the guide. All it takes is an adjustable offset center in the tailstock and setting it up to the taper angle desired. After that the rest is the same as in the video.

View attachment 381338
View attachment 381339
View attachment 381340
Click to expand...

PersonMakeObject said:
Thanks David!

Tapering is one of the things I have to add to the guide. All it takes is an adjustable offset center in the tailstock and setting it up to the taper angle desired. After that the rest is the same as in the video.

View attachment 381338
View attachment 381339
View attachment 381340
Click to expand...
I tried sending a message to Kevin but got no response yet. Not sure how often he visits this site. But in the mean time I will ask the masses. Has anyone used the tapering jig Kevin shows? If you bought the same one he has like I did, how does it work. I can not get mine to move one way or other. My guess the threaded rods work in conjunction with each other. Screw one in and screw other out the same amount. I can not move the slides at all. tried with plier but no go. Is there a trick or something I am missing?? One of the knobs screws right off when I try screwing the rod out. I feel a little stupid now. Any help?
 
John - theoretical only, I haven't used one - my understanding is you first loosen the nuts along the top, then cranking the handle at the end moves the slide. When it's offset by the amount you want, tighten the nuts again to lock it in place.
 
duncsuss said:
John - theoretical only, I haven't used one - my understanding is you first loosen the nuts along the top, then cranking the handle at the end moves the slide. When it's offset by the amount you want, tighten the nuts again to lock it in place.
Click to expand...
There is no nuts on the non spinning cone. That is the one I have. It is in the first photo he shows.
 
Hello John,

I purchased the one that Kevin shows and linked to. I haven't used it, but the offset mechanism works. The two threaded rods with knurled knobs work against each other. They can push against hex head cap screws in keyways on the back. You loosen one so that the other can push against its cap screw and move the dead center point. I wonder if perhaps the hex head cap screws (in the keyways on the back) on yours are too tight and not allowing the two halves to slide properly.

Let me know if this works. If not, I can take a short video of how mine works.

David
 
d_bondi said:
Hello John,

I purchased the one that Kevin shows and linked to. I haven't used it, but the offset mechanism works. The two threaded rods with knurled knobs work against each other. They can push against hex head cap screws in keyways on the back. You loosen one so that the other can push against its cap screw and move the dead center point. I wonder if perhaps the hex head cap screws (in the keyways on the back) on yours are too tight and not allowing the two halves to slide properly.

Let me know if this works. If not, I can take a short video of how mine works.

David
Click to expand...
David I was hoping you would answer because I saw that you said you got one too. I would much appreciate it if you would do short video. If it is not too much trouble. Not sure how I would be able to loosen those cap screws. I was thinking maybe I try some lube of sort. If I can get it to work I can always epoxy the knob on the rod if I have to. I am not in a hurry so when you get time is fine.
 
jttheclockman said:
David I was hoping you would answer because I saw that you said you got one too. I would much appreciate it if you would do short video. If it is not too much trouble. Not sure how I would be able to loosen those cap screws. I was thinking maybe I try some lube of sort. If I can get it to work I can always epoxy the knob on the rod if I have to. I am not in a hurry so when you get time is fine.
Click to expand...
I'll be out in the shop later today. I'll do the video then.
 
That's a tool to offset the tailstock center; typically used on a metal lathe where the cutting tool travels parallel to the ways. Those setscrews/locknuts adjust the gib inside the dovetail to adjust smooth movement while removing play.
 
I tried some PB Blaster and that did not free it. I tried to loosen the cap screws inside and bent the allen key. Before I send this back I would like to see what others say and see the video. Seems like this should slide easily
 
rixstix said:
They're not left handed by any chance?
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Can not see why they would be. I did give them somewhat of a tug both ways before I tried normal way and now need a new allen wrench. These things are not the best machined tools but for what they are used for no need for high tech.
 
Ok John, here you go. I hope this helps.

I agree, the machining is not awesome, but what do we expect for $46 with free shipping from India. :cool:
 

Attachments

  • IMG_5270 (1).mov
    18.4 MB
d_bondi said:
Ok John, here you go. I hope this helps.

I agree, the machining is not awesome, but what do we expect for $46 with free shipping from India. :cool:
Click to expand...
David first let me say thank you for doing that. I appreciate it. Just the way you show is what I thought. What I may do is take a rubber mallet and give it a little tap with those rods out of the way to see If I can get the pieces to slide. Plus I will get another allen key.

Can I ask you did you have to do anything to it when you got it or did it work out of the box? My box came all broken and tapped.
 
jttheclockman said:
It looks exactly like the one we are playing with. I see they are backordered. Wonder if they are getting from same place. May not be American made. I am going to message them.
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I agree John, I bet that one at LIttleMachineShop is made in the same factory in India.
 
jttheclockman said:
David first let me say thank you for doing that. I appreciate it. Just the way you show is what I thought. What I may do is take a rubber mallet and give it a little tap with those rods out of the way to see If I can get the pieces to slide. Plus I will get another allen key.

Can I ask you did you have to do anything to it when you got it or did it work out of the box? My box came all broken and tapped.
Click to expand...
Hey John, my pleasure.

Mine arrived in a DHL plastic envelope. Inside it was in a beat to heck cardboard box barely held together with brown tape. Inside that it was sealed in a clear plastic bag covered in that typical machine oil to protect it from rusting in transit.

All I had to do was open it up and clean it off.

Sorry that yours isn't working smoothly.

I agree with your assessment to loosen the actuation screws and give it a tap or two.
 
d_bondi said:
Hey John, my pleasure.

Mine arrived in a DHL plastic envelope. Inside it was in a beat to heck cardboard box barely held together with brown tape. Inside that it was sealed in a clear plastic bag covered in that typical machine oil to protect it from rusting in transit.

All I had to do was open it up and clean it off.

Sorry that yours isn't working smoothly.

I agree with your assessment to loosen the actuation screws and give it a tap or two.
Click to expand...
That is exactly how mine arrived. I cleaned it and as I said I put some PB Blaster on it but all failed. Will play with it some more tomorrow now that I am feeling a little better now I will be back in the shop. I just liked the OP idea with this. I have been playing around last year with making wedges for my table top router usage. This would work just fine because I can set it up sideways also. Another toy to play with. Will keep you updated. Thanks again.
 
d_bondi said:
Hey John, my pleasure.

Mine arrived in a DHL plastic envelope. Inside it was in a beat to heck cardboard box barely held together with brown tape. Inside that it was sealed in a clear plastic bag covered in that typical machine oil to protect it from rusting in transit.

All I had to do was open it up and clean it off.

Sorry that yours isn't working smoothly.

I agree with your assessment to loosen the actuation screws and give it a tap or two.
Click to expand...
I just see this morning the price of these went up $7 over night. I sent a exchange notice to them but want to see how they handle that. They are claiming I have to pay for return shipping. The price now makes them as expensive as just about all other outlets. Unless everyone is raising prices.
 
jttheclockman said:
I just see this morning the price of these went up $7 over night. I sent a exchange notice to them but want to see how they handle that. They are claiming I have to pay for return shipping. The price now makes them as expensive as just about all other outlets. Unless everyone is raising prices.
Click to expand...
It says in their listing "we will provide instant replacement or FULL REFUND" hopefully they will do the right thing, it certainly isn't your fault that they shipped you one that is seized up.
 
Just wanted to circle back to this thread and give an update. I contacted the vendor where I bought the offset jig. He was sorry for the inconvenience and told me that he will ship another and that I can keep the old one. Free of charge. Today I got that new one and it works as advertised. I am a happy camper now. It just looks better machines and bolts are not bent and the pieces slide. Just wanted to mention this incase someone else wants to get one this company is legit. He told me they sell under 3 other names that are on ebay too. Have to put pen turning on the side for awhile. I have a few other interesting projects I want to sink my teeth into for some time now. In the process of making a couple jigs for the next project. Will have to do that also for a couple other projects later. When I get a few done I will post photos.
 
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