CA broke my heart looking for another :(

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DFerguson777

Member
Joined
Aug 18, 2009
Messages
126
Location
West End, NC
I'm a novice compared to most here, but I need to take a break from CA finishes. I have had some success with it in the past, but I can't break into anything consistant......now the CA is really messing with my eyes and nose. I don't want to go back in the shop...it's that bad...not to mention the bleeding nose...I'm not kidding :eek:.

I love a thick glassy finish. I have read that some of you are using a more eco friendly poly or laquer finish.....are there any tutorials out there? Did a quick search of the library and couldn't find anything.

All help is welcome.

-D- NC
 
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Until I did a CA finish correctly, the fumes used to bother me as well. I no longer "burn in " a CA finish, just build up coats quickly and then sand down. If you don't burn it in, you don't get the smoke and fumes rising from the CA nearly as much, which in turn doesn't affect you that much.

I was a mess for three days after trying a CA finish and swore I would never do it again..you can search my posts for it. I researched all the different options and realized that there really isn't anything comparable to the CA finish overall. Once I studied the process and changed it to eliminate the things that bothered me I have a high quality finish down pat that takes very little time to do.
 
A dust collector (vacuum) is a great investment for any woodturner. For YOU, it sounds like a "MUST".

Fumes get "sucked in" so to speak.
 
Get a respirator, not the cheap dust mask but the kind or respirator with the cartridges on the outside (the kind painter use). I have one for doing finishes and sanding due to some allergy issues. I have had no problems when I use the respirator.

On another note try some other finishes. Belen has a product that works well if built up and then polished. I have not tried the plexi glass method but it does sound interesting.

Good luck and stay healthy.
 
I'm a novice compared to most here, but I need to take a break from CA finishes. I have had some success with it in the past, but I can't break into anything consistant......now the CA is really messing with my eyes and nose. I don't want to go back in the shop...it's that bad...not to mention the bleeding nose...I'm not kidding :eek:.

I love a thick glassy finish. I have read that some of you are using a more eco friendly poly or laquer finish.....are there any tutorials out there? Did a quick search of the library and couldn't find anything.

All help is welcome.

-D- NC

I just received a product that is called liquid glass, is a crystal clear 2 parts water based, odorless, self leveler and quick set product. This stuff represents about 50 coats of a normal varnish. I will making some samples very soon!

Another strong product that will give good results is the clear finish that the car painters use to shine and protect the coloured paints sprayed on those vehicles. This stuff is very strong, totally clear and not as thick as the liquid glass, but has a great gloss to it!

Good luck

Cheers
George
 
Until I did a CA finish correctly, the fumes used to bother me as well. I no longer "burn in " a CA finish, just build up coats quickly and then sand down. If you don't burn it in, you don't get the smoke and fumes rising from the CA nearly as much, which in turn doesn't affect you that much.

This is exactly what I do. I hit each coat with a quick (and I mean quick) spray of accelerator and in seconds I'm ready to apply the next coat. A lot of people don't use accelerator because they've experienced clouding, but I have yet to encounter that. It eliminates the variables like temperature and humidity. I start with the blank just a hair smaller than finished diameter and then build the coats of CA just a hair larger than finished diameter then sand it back. Using calipers, I've never sanded through to the wood using this method.
 
I too have used (and loved) CA, but it does not love me. It almost feels as if I have the Flu! And it lasts for 2-3 days after finishing only one pen. I used a resperator with cartridges for organics and acid vapors, long sleeve shirt, fan behind me and shop vac pulling vapors away. I am going to try some other finishes, but want it to have the deep, glass-like look. I will post any promising results.
 
I too have used (and loved) CA, but it does not love me. It almost feels as if I have the Flu! And it lasts for 2-3 days after finishing only one pen. I used a resperator with cartridges for organics and acid vapors, long sleeve shirt, fan behind me and shop vac pulling vapors away. I am going to try some other finishes, but want it to have the deep, glass-like look. I will post any promising results.

All of these things for me too, and also the 2 - 3 days of strong flu like symptoms. My greatest help was a DC system which was much stronger than my shop vac. And a surround covering around the pen that did not interfere with the turning and sanding or applying of CA. Together, nothing escaped including an occasional MM sheet or Paper Towell! :eek:

I hesitated getting into setting up a DC system because of the difficulties / expenses and noise in my situation (Japan homes are CLOSE.) I studied all of the finishes and their cure time. What I came up with for me was that most great finishes took two to four days of finishing and and final curing. I didn't want to get into that.

I tried the Acetone/Plexi and didn't get it right, but it was my fault. It does have a little learning curve, including temp, thickness/thinness and application methodology. It took me 18 months to perfect the CA for temp, humidity changes, and different circumstances in addition to the kind of CA. But I did perfect it. Then within 6 months of that, the allergies hit me suddenly. I just did not want to go through another learning curve. That was my pet peeve. So I went with the DC custom made for the lathe. I STILL want to learn plexi and will when I get time.

The difference between the CA/Acetone/Plexi versus lacquer/urethane others is the cure time. I can stand a 10 minute hardening but it still takes considerable curing time for sanding on the latter, which takes the pen to a two day to four day project.

To me, this was the primary consideration. I almost went to Acetone/Plexi but decided on a small but strong DC which helped considerably. If that had not worked, I would have gone with the plexi for the finishing time.
 
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I found this at the liquid glass website, regarding the polish/finish:

[FONT=Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular]Liquid Glass Polish/Finish can be applied to any nonporous surface including aluminum, stainless steel, brass, glass, ceramic tile, etc. There are thousands of uses for business or in the home. [/FONT][FONT=Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular]Caution should be used, however, since a long-lasting slippery finish can be dangerous in places (for example, bath tub or shower floor). Do not use on porous surfaces such as fabrics, upholstery, leather, vinyl, etc.[/FONT]


http://www.shopmpt.com/liquidglass/lgpolish.html#inst


It seems to me that wood is porous, and therefore the liquid glass product might not work well on it.
[FONT=Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular][/FONT]
 
I found this at the liquid glass website, regarding the polish/finish:




http://www.shopmpt.com/liquidglass/lgpolish.html#inst


It seems to me that wood is porous, and therefore the liquid glass product might not work well on it.
[FONT=Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular][/FONT]

Hi PaulSF,

Sorry for removing my post answer to your comment above, this post (info) is now posted on its own thread here

Cheers
George
 
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Plexi and acetone do a nice job as well


This is my favorite winter finish. In the summer CA works great. But in the winter, I can't get CA to work consistently no matter what I do. Too cold and dry here in CO I guess. Melted plexi works great.
 
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