Bushing stuck to blank

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7miles

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Feb 22, 2007
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North Pekin, ILL. USA.
Well,
I got what was my first really good CA finish, nice and thick shine WOW... did it shine. The I went to remove it from the mandrel, the bushing and the blank was stuck together. Upon removing it, I got a big chunk if CA broke away from the blank, stayed with the bushing. So whats the best way to get them apart?? Also what the best way to clean up the bushing from CA build up, when done?? Did I mention that this was my best CA finish to date[V][V][V][V]

Thanks
 
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Some members here have a second set of DELRIN bushings that they use after the blanks have been turned with 'regular' steel bushings. By using delrin for your CA finish, you will avoid the sticky occurence since CA does not stick to delrin.

You may also try, waxing the steel bushings with candle wax and thereby prevent the CA from sticking but it's not as effective as the first method mentioned.

-Peter-[:)]
 
Too late for that one but next time...

1. Either..
a) Apply wax between the bushing and blank. (I use Johnson paste wax)
b) Use Delrin bushing
c) Use Delrin spacer

2. Cut at the joint between tube and bushing with a sharp knife (exacto knife is good) before taking the blank out.

Hope this helps.
 
OR.......do one barrel at a time using a dead center in the headstock and a live center in the tailstock. If you're not real sloppy nothing will stick at all. This is the method I like and it works well for me.
 
Originally posted by 7miles
<br /> So whats the best way to get them apart??
Also what the best way to clean up the bushing from CA build up, when done?? [V][V][V][V]

Thanks
Click to expand...
To get them apart take the barrel off your mandrel and <u>lightly</u> tap the corner on the end of the bushing against something hard like a concrete floor. Make sure you are tapping all around the the outside of the bushing. The vibration should seperate it in a couple minutes. Note don't tap it against you lathe you will chip the paint off.

Soak bushings in acetone to remove excess CA.
 
I have a piece of sponge impregnated with vaseline. I rub the blank ends on the sponge and also put some vaseline on the mandrel.

In addition I have some brass tube lengths about the length of the bushings and after I have turned the pen to size, before sanding, I substitute the brass tubes for the bushings.

You can take the brass tubing segments and press them between the bushings to get a slight flange on the ends. This prevents the tubing from moving the tubes in the blanks.

I also have turned short lengths of corian to use in place of the bushings.

Larry

http://webpages.charter.net/lgottlieb2/
 
The same thing was happening to me. Here is where I post this and advice that I had gotten

http://www.penturners.org/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=29197

I bought steel and derlin bushings from johnnycnc and use the derlin when I use CA and I have no problems now

Chris
 
I also loosen the bushings between coats of CA. This help prevent a large build up between the blank and bushing and is much easier to get them off at the end.
 
Follow Rick's advice and put your CA on off of the bushings and between centers. The great part with that is the ends get CA on and into them which will help protect the wood. The take a look at the sanding mill that Lee has created for cleaning the CA off the ends of the blanks and getting a great flat surface.

Mike & Linda
 
Hi Dale
Delrin is a type of plastic like nylon it is very slippery so CA wont stick to it.
I use Ren wax on my bushings and cut the ca at the end of the blank just before final sanding
 
Here's where I get my Delrin(acetal). http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNSRIT?PMPXNO=1986725&PMT4NO=34550276

6 bucks will get you enough to make at least 50 bushings. I also use it to make pen mill sleeves and bushings for squaring my rifle cartridge pieces after I cut them up. It's pretty versatile stuff and you'll find many uses for it.
 
Hi There, This has happened to me as well in the past and what I do is finish as normal then I score the finish on the bushing side with an exacto knife, skew, or parting tool. Then I take the piece over to a steel block I have (6" Diameter by 2" thick) and I hold the bushing on the steel block, then I lightly tap the other side with a very small hammer I have (you could use a wrench or something) just make sure you only tap on the half of the bushing furthest away from the wood. The bushing will slowly come off. I then finish the end by hand, by sanding with 2400 to 12000 MM to get rid of any sharp edges as well as slightly round over then ends, I find my pens feel much better that way as it is quite hard to get you wood and pen part to match down to the thousands of an inch, and if I can tell the difference, I am sure the customer can too. YOu can give it a try and see what you think.

Sheldon
 
Before I went to the dead center/mandrel-less route, I would use a bit of wax as most people said AND I would use an exacto - kind of knife and score the CA.
 
I made a set of Delrin bushings that are just for finishing on the mandrel. I started with 5/8" dia. Delrin they are cut square on one end and have a 60 degree point on the other, and I drilled them thru to fit over the mandrel.
I just use them for finishing and the CA doesn't stick to them.
They fit any size tube, this way I don't need a bunch of different sizes of Delrin bushings for finishing.
 
i always end up with stuck bushings but all i do is take the mandrel off the lathe, put the bottom of it on my workbench while holding the other end at an angle and tap the bushing (one at a time) lightly while rotating it until it separates. i think only once (the first time i did it) did any ca chunks go with it. since i've done this method countless times and it works every time.
 
I used to have the same problem. What I do is put on several coats of thin ca, sand smooth and the separate the bushing and blank and sand the ends. Reassemble and put on several coats of thick ca and
repeat. If there are still stuck, I slide off the mandrel far enough so the bushing hangs off and I just snap the bushing away from the blank. A little extra work but well worth it.
 
Funny that a little $5.00 dead center would end this entire problem. Better yet, make one from a rod of Delrin and have the "ultimate" CA finishing center. I am seriously debating making a custom head for a 1/2-20 threaded morse taper shaft I have that would basicly be a live center with a Delrin point just for finish application.. I just need to make a new head to hold the bearing.

BTW, this method is pretty fool proof:
bcb-ca.jpg
 
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