Buffing-- kicked up a notch!

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Texatdurango

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If you like your buffing finishes on your CA finished or acrylic pens and are content with the shine they give you then read no further.

However if you want to kick the gloss up a notch you might consider trying this.....

1. Visit Caswell plating
2. Order a few Canton flannel buffs. These are GOOD, HIGH quality buffs, not your run of the mill Harbor Freight buffs or those found at Lowes or Home Depot.

3. Order a stick of "Plastic" buffing compound (fine)
4. Order a stick of "Plastic-Glo" (ultra fine - dry grade)

Take your tripoli and white diamond and set them in a drawer somewhere out of the way where they will be safe for a long time, because you probably won't use them again! Well, I actually still use mine, I have two buffers sitting side by side and have all four compounds set out with their respective buff. With the buffers sitting side by side, it's easy to see the difference when you do a pen with white diamond then move over to the Plastic-glo ultra fine compound!

I have been using these buffs and compounds for over a year now and am tickled pink with them and think they have improved the shine of my pens tremendously. Another thread about buffing reminded me that someone asked me a while back about the buffs I used.

Edit: To clarify, I use the plastic-glo "ultra-fine" before the plastic "fine" compound. Sounds backwards but after calling Caswell, they confirmed that the plastic "fine" gives a finer polish than the ultra fine. Different manufacturers naming their compounds is a bit confusing.
 
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hilltopper46 said:
George,

I got to wondering about something ... before you apply this technique, what treatment has the surface received? MM up to 12000 or ??????
Click to expand...
This is not a technique, it is not a step as in part 4 of 5, it is just mentioning alternative buffing supplies that members may not be familiar with.

I don't use micro mesh so I usually buff right after sanding. Depending on what I am finishing, I might stop sanding at 600, 800 or 1,000.

I just posted this because when most members think of buffing, they think of tripoli and white diamond just because that's what most pen making sites and woodworking stores sell.

There are better alternatives, this is just one!
 
Just to bring this up again, Caswell is currently out of the 8" Canton flannel buffs. The girl I spoke to was unsure when they would be in again, but it looks to be late January or early February. They are refunding my order and I asked to be notified when they would be back in stock again. Just a heads up for anyone that orders as I believe their website does not show whether an item is in stock or not.
 
George,
Thanks for the info. Received my buffs and polishing compounds on Friday. Just in time to use over the weekend. Much better then the white diamond that I had been using.
Also, started using your technique for my CA finishes (letting them sit overnight before sanding and buffing).For once, I am not sanding through the finish and getting high gloss shines every time. Your step by step pen turning post is one of the best even for those of us who have been turning for years.
 
Looks good. Does anyone know where I can get the arbor hardware required to screw into the single-wheel 2MT mount that comes with the Beall system?
 
Buffing BAM!

I kinda feel like Flip Wilson. Except he said "The devil made me do it" and I way "George made me do it." Works so far!
 
jleiwig said:
Didn't work for me when I told the wife. :biggrin:
Click to expand...

It doesn't work with wives! With the wives, you have to say things like... "Well, all the other guys are doing it" or "All the other guys have one" or the best one.... "I'm probably the only guy who doesn't have one yet".

The last one you say as you are dropping your head and walking off slowly. If you do it right, 9 times out of 10 she'll say something like... "Well, how much is it anyway?" To which you ALWAYS reply... "I don't know, probably not much though" :biggrin:
 
Lately I've just been living by the motto: It's better to ask forgiveness than permission. :biggrin:

It's been chilly in the house a couple times, but nothing too bad after I do something manly and "save" her. LOL! :biggrin:


Texatdurango said:
It doesn't work with wives! With the wives, you have to say things like... "Well, all the other guys are doing it" or "All the other guys have one" or the best one.... "I'm probably the only guy who doesn't have one yet".

The last one you say as you are dropping your head and walking off slowly. If you do it right, 9 times out of 10 she'll say something like... "Well, how much is it anyway?" To which you ALWAYS reply... "I don't know, probably not much though" :biggrin:
Click to expand...
 
jleiwig said:
Lately I've just been living by the motto: It's better to ask forgiveness than permission. :biggrin:

It's been chilly in the house a couple times, but nothing too bad after I do something manly and "save" her. LOL! :biggrin:
Click to expand...

Hey, nothing wrong with that approach. A movie and dinner, and they forget all about it! "Course, you have to factor in the cost of the movie and dinner in with the tool(s) to determine if the overall cost is worth it!

Le't not discuss too many details on a public forum though, there are a few of "Them" on the forum and we don't want them learning all our secrets! :wink:
 
George,

How do you mount the buffs? Do you have it on a dedicated buffer/ grinder, or on a lathe system like the Beall?

Also, how much material does the polish take off? I'm getting pretty good on getting a near-perfect fit on my finishes, but a higher gloss is always welcome!

Lastly, you said you buff straight from 1000 grit?

Thanks,
Travis
 
Texatdurango said:
Hey, nothing wrong with that approach. A movie and dinner, and they forget all about it! "Course, you have to factor in the cost of the movie and dinner in with the tool(s) to determine if the overall cost is worth it!

Le't not discuss too many details on a public forum though, there are a few of "Them" on the forum and we don't want them learning all our secrets! :wink:
Click to expand...

George,

You have it wrong. The ladies on this forum already know the tricks we use. But, they have an advantage. I bet when they want to add something to their shop, their spouses are all in agreement. I have never seen a man turn down the opportunity to get a new tool!:)
 
Just curious, how long has it taken you guys to get stuff from Caswell? I ordered on the morning of the 22nd, and I haven't heard anything yet as to processing, shipping, or anything. The only thing I know for certain is that my money is out there.
 
I only recently found the advantage of buffing pens rather than Micro Meshing them. I have wanted to get a better finish than what I have been seeing. So I just placed a $66 order for compounds buffs and all that other stuff you never meant to buy. So if this does not work I'm giving my wife Georges e-mail address. Just kidding. I never did get around to actually getting tripoli and white diamond compounds so I fixed that, I also got the compounds for plastic and am anxious to see if it gets closer to what I am looking for. I am becoming a bigger and bigger fan of acrylics for a lot of my pens so hopefuly this will help me stay in that jewelry store look range with my finishes. Buffing sure beats the tar out of all that sanding time wise. even if the finishes do not get better I don't think I will go back.
 
BigguyZ said:
George,

How do you mount the buffs? Do you have it on a dedicated buffer/ grinder, or on a lathe system like the Beall?

Also, how much material does the polish take off? I'm getting pretty good on getting a near-perfect fit on my finishes, but a higher gloss is always welcome!

Lastly, you said you buff straight from 1000 grit?

Thanks,
Travis
Click to expand...

I have two dedicated buffers. One the left of one is metal buffing, the right for tripoli. The other has two different buffs, one using plastic compound, the other using high gloss plastic compound. I do have the Beall setup that I removed the center buff from but it's covered in plastic hanging on a wall peg somewhere since I haven't used it in about a year.

As fine as these compounds are, I doubt the material removed is even measurable.

Yes, I buff straight from 1000 grit, sometimes I will buff ebonite after 800 grit sanding.
 

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Those grinder guards are a great way to remove those unwanted fingers.
Not to mention not being able to get to the portion of the wheel you should be buffing on. That has got to be uncomfortable and no way to get a good stroke (cut or color) either.
 
DozerMite said:
Those grinder guards are a great way to remove those unwanted fingers.
Not to mention not being able to get to the portion of the wheel you should be buffing on. That has got to be uncomfortable and no way to get a good stroke (cut or color) either.
Click to expand...

And yet it works just fine for me and feels so comfortable! :tongue:
 
I've got an old 6" grinder that I took both sides of the sheilds off. I'm going to mount the 8" buffs that I ordered to it, and mount it on a spacer so the buffs will clear. I need to go turn a pen tonight because they are supposed to be delivered tomorrow!
 
What RPM are those buffers- 3400, or 1100-1700? I think the dedicated buffer is the ideal way to go, so you don't have to bother swapping out the mandrel for the beall system...

Texatdurango said:
I have two dedicated buffers. One the left of one is metal buffing, the right for tripoli. The other has two different buffs, one using plastic compound, the other using high gloss plastic compound. I do have the Beall setup that I removed the center buff from but it's covered in plastic hanging on a wall peg somewhere since I haven't used it in about a year.

As fine as these compounds are, I doubt the material removed is even measurable.

Yes, I buff straight from 1000 grit, sometimes I will buff ebonite after 800 grit sanding.
Click to expand...
 
According to most sources the 3450 rpm motors, like a grinder, are preferred over slower 1725 rpm motors. If I remember correctly you ideally want to be in the 7000-8000 surface feet per minute category. I have an old old arbor setup and a 1725 motor, but I'm going to use the 6" grinder for the extra rpm.
 
Texatdurango said:
If you like your buffing finishes on your CA finished or acrylic pens and are content with the shine they give you then read no further.

However if you want to kick the gloss up a notch you might consider trying this.....

1. Visit Caswell plating
2. Order a few Canton flannel buffs. These are GOOD, HIGH quality buffs, not your run of the mill Harbor Freight buffs or those found at Lowes or Home Depot.

3. Order a stick of "Plastic" buffing compound (fine)
4. Order a stick of "Plastic-Glo" (ultra fine - dry grade)

Take your tripoli and white diamond and set them in a drawer somewhere out of the way where they will be safe for a long time, because you probably won't use them again! Well, I actually still use mine, I have two buffers sitting side by side and have all four compounds set out with their respective buff. With the buffers sitting side by side, it's easy to see the difference when you do a pen with white diamond then move over to the Plastic-glo ultra fine compound!

I have been using these buffs and compounds for over a year now and am tickled pink with them and think they have improved the shine of my pens tremendously. Another thread about buffing reminded me that someone asked me a while back about the buffs I used.
Click to expand...


George

Do you have a link for the buffing materials you are talking about??? :confused: I too would like to give this a try. I read Daniels report and I too may give up micromeshing and go right to buffing. Will it take out small swirls that may have occured when wiping on the CA in wood blanks??? Thanks.
 
jttheclockman said:
George

Do you have a link for the buffing materials you are talking about??? :confused: I too would like to give this a try. I read Daniels report and I too may give up micromeshing and go right to buffing. Will it take out small swirls that may have occured when wiping on the CA in wood blanks??? Thanks.
Click to expand...

I really can't answer this because I don't know what kind of swirls you are talking about. Once I get to 1000 grit, the entire blank has already been leveled out and is already starting to take on a sheen. You shouldn't see any swirls at all by then.

Last year I bought a good supply of Novus plastic scratch remover #2 and #3 and need to use it up so I don't always go straight from 1000 grit to buffing. I might just leave it on the lathe and use the #2 and or #3 depending on the blank and the mood I'm in.:)
 
I agree with what George says in that the surface of my blanks are sanded and already smooth. I started with sanding to only 400 grit. the Buffer with Tripoli and it still did a good job of removing any scratch marks most of hte time. But not always, and always is much better than most of the time. Since I still own lots of MM I started sanding to 400 grit then hittng the blanks with the first three grades of MM. Much better results at removing all scratches all the time. The polish is very nice even though I think it could be better still. My only other concern is how well it will wear. but that is a concern I have with any polish.
 
George, The bars of compound that are under the buffs in your photo. Are those the bars you get from Caswell? and if so are they the regular or jumbo bars?
I was thinking they where expensive but I was also picturing bars like the little green one you have there.
 
jleiwig said:
According to most sources the 3450 rpm motors, like a grinder, are preferred over slower 1725 rpm motors. If I remember correctly you ideally want to be in the 7000-8000 surface feet per minute category. I have an old old arbor setup and a 1725 motor, but I'm going to use the 6" grinder for the extra rpm.
Click to expand...

Really? I thought I remember people saying that a slower speed is better. Otherwise, I have an old HF grinder I can add the buffs to and be done with it...

Also, The buffing doesn't add a film polish, does it? I thought the puprose of buffing was to abraid the surface with a finer pattern and that is what creates the shine. So the finish that's left is a CA surface that's ultra smooth and free of scratches... Is that incorrect?

Thanks,
Travis
 
Daniel said:
George, The bars of compound that are under the buffs in your photo. Are those the bars you get from Caswell? and if so are they the regular or jumbo bars?
I was thinking they where expensive but I was also picturing bars like the little green one you have there.
Click to expand...

On the left machine are the bars from Caswell plating. They are about 2x2 and about a foot long, a lifetime supply for the average turner.
 
Texatdurango said:
On the left machine are the bars from Caswell plating. They are about 2x2 and about a foot long, a lifetime supply for the average turner.
Click to expand...

Sorry for the questions, but this interests me a lot. It looks like you have a sewn buff and a loose buff- is that correct? do you find the sewn on better for the regular polish and the loose for the ultra polish?

Also, what RPM is your buffer?

Thanks,
Travis
 
Texatdurango said:
On the left machine are the bars from Caswell plating. They are about 2x2 and about a foot long, a lifetime supply for the average turner.
Click to expand...

Now that all depends on whether I can figure out how to get the cord on my buffer to reach all the way to my Lincoln setting in the driveway!!!!
Honestly I was shocked to see the size of them in reference to something. Since I have that same orange buffer I know just what I am looking at. I'm gonna have to reinforce my work bench.
 
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I also have a sewn buff on the tripoli side of my buffer, mainly because that is what tripoli says to use with it. I have a non sewn buff on the other side because that compound says to use it with a loose buff. I have not yet tried to find out things like what using tripoli with a loose buff woudl do. I just follow directions. Mainly the one from my wife that says don't screw it up.
In practice I see it as the sewn buff that has the backbone to remove scratches, it is the loose buff that puts the shine to everything.

BigguyZ said:
Sorry for the questions, but this interests me a lot. It looks like you have a sewn buff and a loose buff- is that correct? do you find the sewn on better for the regular polish and the loose for the ultra polish?

Also, what RPM is your buffer?

Thanks,
Travis
Click to expand...
 
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