Boring bar holder for wood lathe

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I will be following this thread to see how well this unit performs. It could be just the ticket for those final cuts on transparent type acrylics to reduce tool marks before painting the inside of the blanks.

I know using a boring head in a milling machine was the cat's pajamas to get precise fits but then again that was using an automatic feed and a much more solid set-up.
 
I will be following this thread to see how well this unit performs. It could be just the ticket for those final cuts on transparent type acrylics to reduce tool marks before painting the inside of the blanks.

I know using a boring head in a milling machine was the cat's pajamas to get precise fits but then again that was using an automatic feed and a much more solid set-up.

A reamer will also work for getting a smooth hole in the blank. Just used one on a semi transparent blank, it left a smooth "clear" finish to the inside. Not polished but smooth.


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I don't have reverse on my lathe. I might try to wire it or maybe I'll make a boring bar that point in the opposite direction with a carbide tip or something...
 
I don't have reverse on my lathe. I might try to wire it or maybe I'll make a boring bar that point in the opposite direction with a carbide tip or something...

You could grind a flat spot on a round bar (12mm) and attach a square carbide cutter. It would cut on both sides for holes and tendons.

Danny
 
It can cut a tenon if you can reverse the direction of your lathe. Another option is to order a shaft and cutter with a diameter that matches the size of your holder, mine was 1/2 inch, then cut the shaft down to 3 inches in length. The you can cut with the lathe turning normally. The only issue is that you can not cut both tenon and holes with the same cutter, if you are using it to make kit less pens, it is to wide for most holes. You will be better off using a drill bit to match the size needed for the tap you are going to use.
 
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