Beall buffing RPM

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gad5264

gad5264

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Joined
Feb 29, 2008
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Location
Columbus, Ohio, USA.
I have been considering a Beall Buffing System for a while and finally got pushed over the edge yesterday when the mailman delivered a 15% off coupon on a $50 purchase for Woodcraft.

I keep reading that the optimum speed for buffing is 1725 RPM. I was planning on using an older variable speed lathe to mount the Beall wheels on. The range of RPM's for the older lathe is 1020, 1500, 2100, 3000RPM.

So, I guess my question for the veterans is as follows.

Which is better......slower or faster?
 
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Depends on what finish you are applying.

A friction polish will require enough speed that the pen/bowl gets hot enough to actually melt the finish onto the surface. This is just about the hottest that you can hold your hand on to. That's pretty hot! :eek:

Other finishes require a drying period and then you buff the project until it has the shine you are looking to achieve.

A variable speed lathe makes these selections easier than a belt driven lathe. Just don't be in a hurry and test your finish techniques out for a bit. Your results will vary from wood to wood and of course with whatever finishing product you are applying.

Experience is a great teacher when it comes to finish work. Be sure to post your results and see someone can assist you further. :smile:
 
Slower. I have used the buff. It is a nice system. I don't use it much anymore, but it will put a shine on anything.
 
I don't think I've ever buffed past 1000 rpm. It's real easy for the buffing pad to rip the pen or other item right out of your hands at high speeds. Hold on!!!

Marc
 
I also recommend holding the pen at a 45 degree angle to the buff wheel. Ease it gently into the wheel. As stated earlier, the buffing wheel will grab an expensive wood or acrylic pen body and slam it into the table or floor before you know it. Not that it ever happened to me.:biggrin:
 
marcruby said:
I don't think I've ever buffed past 1000 rpm. It's real easy for the buffing pad to rip the pen or other item right out of your hands at high speeds. Hold on!!!

Marc
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QFT. The Beall setup has nice diameter wheels and over 1000 is not needed. If you were using smaller wheels then you would raise the speed to compensate for the smaller wheels.

before I got the Beall I would sand with MM to 12,000 then use auto cleaner, then polish and finally wax. With teh Beall I sand to maybe 4000mm then let the buffing setup do the work. Easily saves me 20 minutes per pen. Also, the buffing system works wonders for finishes like Enduro if you just use the white wheel with a light touch. Like glass.:smile:
 
Mikey said:
QFT. The Beall setup has nice diameter wheels and over 1000 is not needed. If you were using smaller wheels then you would raise the speed to compensate for the smaller wheels.
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Forgive me, But I thought the further out you went the slower the rotation was. Thus with smaller wheels you would want a slower speed to compensate.
 
No, smaller wheels = less diameter = slower speed on the outside of the surface for any given RPM. A larger wheel turning at 1000 RPMs with spin at the outer edge more feet per minute than will one half the diameter spinning at that same 1,000 RPMs
 
hewunch said:
Forgive me, But I thought the further out you went the slower the rotation was. Thus with smaller wheels you would want a slower speed to compensate.
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Naw. It's like a car. Your top speed will be higher with larger tires. If you throw skateboard wheels on your car, your top speed will max out much earlier.
 
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