Removing Morse taper adapter

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J

jbg230

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Just purchased a new Laguna 12/16 lathe. My $89.00 Harbor Freight lathe got me started 10 years ago, but it was time to upgrade! Since my HF lathe is a Morse taper #1, I bought a pair of #2 adapters for my chucks and centers. I guess one question is, should I have figured in the cost of buying all new #2 accessories or are the adapters okay for a non-professional like me (assuming they turn true).
I thought everything was going great, but then I used one of them just to see how it would work.
The issue is removing the darn adapter from the chuck or center. I slid the #2 adapter over a Jacobs chuck #1 Morse taper and inserted it into the tail stock. I used a knockout bar as I usually do to remove the chuck. But how do I get the adapter off the chuck? I finally did, but it's certainly not efficient. Not only that, but I realize I can't use a draw bar now. So that's no good! (and the draw bar diameter is a tad wider than the stem at the end of the adapter, so I can't just tap out that stem) Did I buy the wrong type of adapter? Do I cut the stem off the adapter where it flares and tap out the base so I can use the draw bar? Stop being frugal and start over again with #2 devices?
Thanks for help.
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I would bite the proverbial bullet and buy MT2 accessories. You'll be much happier in the long run if you do that. Using adapters adds to complexity and increases the risk of excessive runout due to particles building up in the tapers. The inability to use a drawbar on the part inside the adapter can be an issue depending on what you're doing. The normal way of ejecting the MT1 device from the adapter is by driving a wedge through that slot in the side of the adapter to push against the bottom of the item in the adapter. (A very large "slot" screwdriver blade will work in a pinch.) Sorry, that's kinda fragmented but I hope it answers your questions.
 
I had a similar problem many moons ago. The adapter would not fit into the MT taper because it was too long and would not "seat" properly. The tang is hardened and tempered so you will have to use a grinding / cut-off wheel to remove the tang.

Does your chuck have an MT taper on it? If so, I would replace that first with a proper threaded mount. Figure which pieces you use most, or are cheapest.
 
I was going to say that your adapter has a slot cut in it which is made for using a Drift Key, but Rick (rherrell) beat me to it. Also called a Drift Suit or Drift Tool, it is a common tool for removing Jacobs Chucks from drill presses).
Dave
 
Two options for you

1 buy the right taper SLEEVE Mt adaptor eg 30478BD1-CB08-4EA9-A354-32D2B149B34B.png

2 buy different 2Mt arbors for your chuck. I'd go down the latter route as you use a drill chuck a lot .
 
rherrell said:
If you want to use the drawbar then you have to buy new chucks with drawbar ends, you can cut the end off the adapter with an angle grinder but that's a Mickey Mouse way of doing it.

If you want to remove chucks from that style of adapter you'll need a wedge like this...

REMOVAL WEDGE
Click to expand...
Ohhhh! Man-o-man- thank you! A wedge tool, a drift tool! Who knew? Well, I guess you guys did! I did search the web for this, but probably didn't use the correct search terms. So thank you Rick, Garrett and others for the answers and options. At least I know for now, but I'll start to collect #2 accessories.
 
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