best Forstner bits for salt and pepper mills

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I am in need of some Forstner bits for making some salt and pepper mills.


I need the 1 1/16" and the 1 5/8"

I saw some Maxicut bits on CSUSA's web site, but they were out of stock.

Any use these Maxicut bits? are they worth the extra money?

What bits would you suggest to me, and were id the best place to get them?

Thanks
 
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I bought the Colt Maxi Cut bits from Amazon with the 270mm extension for peppermills. They are extremely sharp and make very accurate cuts. I'm very impressed with them.
 
I go through Forstner's pretty regularly with my mills.... I use the ones sold at Woodcraft.. don't remember the brand name...but at about $10 each, I can use them until they get dull, sometimes touch them up on my 1" belt sander for a few more uses, then toss and replace... I don't use the 1 1/16 myself, but know that WC does carry them.
 
Strongly suggest you avoid the high carbon steel version -- they are cheap, but when they get hot, the edges get softer and softer.....

High Speed Steel is durable and can be resharpened with diamond or cubic boron nitride slips.

Maxicut are awesome -- I think worth the price (at least to me).

They are available in a good range of sizes from internet suppliesr Amazon has it today for a good price (expensive -- but less than list)
 
I do like Chuck I get the Woodriver I believe the name is, from Woodcraft. They can be sharpened, but are cheap enough about 10.00. The Colts are worth the money, particularly on the 1-1/16th since it gets a lot of use.
 
When I am making 6" mills out of a very hard type of wood. Would it be a good idea to drill a pilot hole? say with a 3/4" metal bit?

Would this make the Forstner bit last longer since it would have less to cut through?
 
Chess_Master said:
When I am making 6" mills out of a very hard type of wood. Would it be a good idea to drill a pilot hole? say with a 3/4" metal bit?

Would this make the Forstner bit last longer since it would have less to cut through?
Click to expand...


Probably not worth the bother --

But if you do, the Forstner guide on the outside rim and you should start with the full size forstner to set the guide, then drill out the center, and come back with the forstner.

As a general rule - start big with forstner and work down.
 
Thanks everyone for your help.


I ended up ordering a 1 1/16" maxicut from amazon. Also I ordered both a 1 1/16" and a 1 5/8" of the cheap type from Csusa.

I plan on comparing them.
 
TellicoTurning said:
I go through Forstner's pretty regularly with my mills.... I use the ones sold at Woodcraft.. don't remember the brand name...but at about $10 each, I can use them until they get dull, sometimes touch them up on my 1" belt sander for a few more uses, then toss and replace... I don't use the 1 1/16 myself, but know that WC does carry them.
Click to expand...



About how many blanks would you say you drill, before replacing them?

Thanks
 
Chess_Master said:
TellicoTurning said:
I go through Forstner's pretty regularly with my mills.... I use the ones sold at Woodcraft.. don't remember the brand name...but at about $10 each, I can use them until they get dull, sometimes touch them up on my 1" belt sander for a few more uses, then toss and replace... I don't use the 1 1/16 myself, but know that WC does carry them.
Click to expand...



About how many blanks would you say you drill, before replacing them?

Thanks
Click to expand...

It would be hard to say, probably depends on what types of woods I've been drilling... the harder woods of course take a harder toll on the bit's edges... when the bits start to burn the edge of the holes, I start looking at new bits... I do touch up the larger bits on my belt sander to get a few more cuts from them.... if I had to put a number on them, I would guess I do a couple of dozen blanks before I change the bits.

You asked a question about pilot holes.... I've tried both methods and haven't found a great deal of advantage with pilot holes.... as said, the bits start on the out edge of the hole and cut with the blade part as you advance... obviously the less the blade has to cut, the smoother it will go, but the bit also follows the center tip for alignment and with a pilot hole there isn't a center point for the alignment... cutting a starter hold with the bit in question will aid in the guidance... I did some dried oak burls recently and the only way I could go was with the pilot holes... I actually had to drill in multiple steps, working up to the final size of the hole... that was some HARD wood.... but made a beautiful mill.
 
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