Tung Oil

[Andrew Arndts]

Why haven't I seen anything pro or con about the use of Tung oil in this forum. Am I the only one who uses it because no one has told me not to?

I basically use it as I am sanding, that is I apply between grits. Let it do what it does, come back in 30 minutes. After I finish with 600. I apply a final coat let it set over night. By morning I either do a Hut PPP or CA. Most of the time it is Hut.

 

[Smitty37]

Might try that

Well Tung oil is often used to finish furniture..it is kind of a presevative so I would think it's ok. I have used a dip stain then finished with a polish...It worked ok but I wasn't in love with the stain color.

 

[juteck]

I like it and still use it occasionally. I like how you can build it up and buff it to a nice sheen. I also use danish oil. I think the oil finish has a much warmer feeling, and feels more like wood than plastic. One of my daily use pens is one out of birdseye maple that was begging for an oil finish -- I've been using it for about 5 years, and there is no sign of the finish wearing or rubbing off, and it still feels as silky smooth as the day I turned it. I still like oil finished on my bowls and platters too, for the same warm feeling.

I also use CA and just started with Enduro for pen finishes, so I don't believe any ONE finish is best for all projects. If you're selling your pens though, the customer market may drive your actual selection more so than personal preference.

 

[bking0217]

I've never used tung oil before. How long does it take to dry? If it takes several hours, that may be the reason it's not commonly used. JMO

 

[Andrew Arndts]

I've never used tung oil before. How long does it take to dry? If it takes several hours, that may be the reason it's not commonly used. JMO

Min wax's version of tung oil has other ingredients to speed up the drying. It doesn't take a lot of time but I allow it time. Not to mention by the time one has taken a blank down to where you sand. there isn't much worry about dry time. :biggrin:

 

[DCBluesman]

I've never used tung oil before. How long does it take to dry? If it takes several hours, that may be the reason it's not commonly used. JMO

Min wax's version of tung oil has other ingredients to speed up the drying. It doesn't take a lot of time but I allow it time. Not to mention by the time one has taken a blank down to where you sand. there isn't much worry about dry time. :biggrin:

This is almost right. The Minwax and Formsby's Tung Oil Finishes are both tung oil-based varnishes...that is, they are mixed with normally about 65% mineral spirits. You won't get a true tung oil finish that way, but a thinned out varnish finish.

I have done several pens with pure tung oil. It takes 6-8 applications a couple of days apart, and then at least a week, preferrably a month, to fully cure through oxidation (not evaporation like the Minwax and Formsby products). Even at that, an every day carry pen has to be re-coated once a year or so. Remember grandma's adage about oil finishes. "Once a day for a week, once a week for a month and once a month forever." Well, she was about right!:biggrin:

I buy my pure tung oil here and only buy what I will use in six months as it does not store well.

 

[DCBluesman]

I can't swear one way or the other...but that's the company's story. The oil for their varnish is tung oil. Of course, it's no where in writing!

This is almost right. The Minwax and Formsby's Tung Oil Finishes are both tung oil-based varnishes...that is, they are mixed with normally about 65% mineral spirits.

Are you sure, Lou? When I researched this several years ago, I was told
(by many people) that neither Formby's nor Minwax contained any tung.
Both are oil/varnish finishes containing about 60% mineral spirits, 30%
boiled linseed oil and around 10% resins.
Of course, I didn't have them tested myself.. and there's no way either
company would ever tell you if they contain tung or not. (trade secret)

Neither one smell anything like tung, though.. at least not to me

 

[Smitty37]

Danish oil

I like it and still use it occasionally. I like how you can build it up and buff it to a nice sheen. I also use danish oil. I think the oil finish has a much warmer feeling, and feels more like wood than plastic. One of my daily use pens is one out of birdseye maple that was begging for an oil finish -- I've been using it for about 5 years, and there is no sign of the finish wearing or rubbing off, and it still feels as silky smooth as the day I turned it. I still like oil finished on my bowls and platters too, for the same warm feeling.

I also use CA and just started with Enduro for pen finishes, so I don't believe any ONE finish is best for all projects. If you're selling your pens though, the customer market may drive your actual selection more so than personal preference.

I've done furniture with about 10-12 coats of hand rubbed danish oil finish and as near as I can tell it will last forever. We never even used furniture polish on it.

 

[diver123]

Now if I may add to this confusion.
There are two types of "tung oil finishes". One is mixture of varnish, boiled linseed oil and mineral spirits (called an oil/varnish). The exact mixtures are proprietary but 1/3, 1/3, and 1/3 will get you real close. Some manufacturers add a dollop of drier to speed up the drying. This same mixture is frequently also called "Danish Oil" because it gives a finish that resembles the finish used on much of the "danish style" teak furniture imported in the 50's and 60's. It closely mimics a true oil finish but the addition of the varnish resins gives it more durability and protection.


Deft Danish Oil
General Finishes' Sealacell
Behlen Danish Oil
Maloof Finish
Behr Scandinavian Tung Oil Finish
Minwax Tung Oil Finish
Minwax Antique Oil Finish
Velvit Oil
Watco Danish Oil
McCloskey Tung Oil Finish (contains pure tung oil, not linseed oil)


The second "tung oil finish" is one made from varnish and mineral spirits. The approximate ratio is 1:1. This is really just a thinned varnish just like the stuff sold as "wiping varnish". When one two or three coats are applied, it also mimics the finish produced by a true oil but it is harder than the oil/varnish above because it does not have as much oil. It is slightly more protective than the oil/varnish type or tung oil finish. For all intents and purposes it is a varnish finish.

Minway Wiping Varnish
Watco Wiping Varnish
Formby's Tung Oil Finish
Zar Wipe-on Tung Oil
Val-Oil
Hope's Tung Oil Varnish
Gillespie Tung Oil
Waterlox
General Finishes' Arm R Seal
Jasco Tung Oil

Lastly pure 100% tung oil takes an eternity to dry which is slightly faster than 100% pure linseed. Often these oils are polymerized so they dry. Driers are added to help with the process. One more for the road is Boiled linseed oil which isnt really boiled. It is heated in an oxygen free inviornment untill thickened.

 

[Andrew Arndts]

well ain't this a fine kettle or horse poo.

Minwax has 0% of tung oil... well that is just peachy. this is something that I will continue to use but I just can't in good conscience say that it has a tung oil finish.

well it is after midnight here so pardon me so I will get a bass pale ale and continue reading other info in the forum.

 

[bking0217]

Lastly pure 100% tung oil takes an eternity to dry which is slightly faster than 100% pure linseed.

Let's say someone were to use 100% pure tung oil for a finish. How long would it take to cure?

 

[diver123]

Lastly pure 100% tung oil takes an eternity to dry which is slightly faster than 100% pure linseed.

Let's say someone were to use 100% pure tung oil for a finish. How long would it take to cure?

Well now that is the real question. First the oil gets into any pores in the wood and sits there. Warm the wood and the oil comes out seamingly to never dry. I had a pice of figured maple with a live edge that I wanted to use for a serving board. Cheese,breads,or fruits. I used pure tung. A week later the board still weeping oil,me wiping it off daily,and it still wasnt cured. Looked good how ever. So in reality pure tung oil can dry in a few days time provided it is a very thin coat. Full cure can take 15-30days. Want to speed up drying time add japan drier. Also tung oil is thick and really should be thinned with mineral spirts 1-1 to get a thin layer and more penetration into the wood. Hope this helps.

 

[VampMN]

I use 100% Tung Oil and CA for my finish on wood pens. I use the tung oil instead of BLO because that is what I had. Seems to be working pretty well for me.

 

[H2oLox]

Just to clear a few things up. Waterlox is an oil finish and it is also by definition a varnish.


As for the make up of Waterlox, I can answer that directly from our FAQ's on our website:

How much tung oil is in Waterlox?

By definition, Waterlox Original Tung oil finishes are "phenolic modified Tung oil-based varnishes". By design, our original formulas are low solids solutions (meaning high solvent percentages) engineered to offer the most desirable combination of wood penetrating and protective film build. Without revealing the exact nature of our proprietary formulas, we can disclose that the solids portion of these finishes is made up of 85% Tung oil and 15% resin, rosin and driers.

Hope this helps.
Chip Schaffner - Waterlox Coatings

 

[DurocShark]

Just to clear a few things up. Waterlox is an oil finish and it is also by definition a varnish.


As for the make up of Waterlox, I can answer that directly from our FAQ's on our website:

How much tung oil is in Waterlox?

By definition, Waterlox Original Tung oil finishes are "phenolic modified Tung oil-based varnishes". By design, our original formulas are low solids solutions (meaning high solvent percentages) engineered to offer the most desirable combination of wood penetrating and protective film build. Without revealing the exact nature of our proprietary formulas, we can disclose that the solids portion of these finishes is made up of 85% Tung oil and 15% resin, rosin and driers.

Hope this helps.
Chip Schaffner - Waterlox Coatings

Nice to read your post. And welcome!

 

[diver123]

Just to clear a few things up. Waterlox is an oil finish and it is also by definition a varnish.


As for the make up of Waterlox, I can answer that directly from our FAQ's on our website:

How much tung oil is in Waterlox?

By definition, Waterlox Original Tung oil finishes are "phenolic modified Tung oil-based varnishes". By design, our original formulas are low solids solutions (meaning high solvent percentages) engineered to offer the most desirable combination of wood penetrating and protective film build. Without revealing the exact nature of our proprietary formulas, we can disclose that the solids portion of these finishes is made up of 85% Tung oil and 15% resin, rosin and driers.

Hope this helps.
Chip Schaffner - Waterlox Coatings

I must say I went back to read my post and got things all buggered up in a bad way. Had wrong sentences with all the wrong products. No thank you cut and paste skills. Not to mention proof reading. I have corrected the previous post to reflect such. Think it makes sence now. Sorry about that.

 

[Hubert H]

my 2 cents

I believe Charlie is right. Pure tung oil takes days to dry, however it does leave a very soft and natural wood finish. I'm new to pen turning but have been finishing wood for 45 years. No one finish is the one and only finish however, I am learning the CA process. Haven't conquered it just yet.

 

[Wildman]

Pure Tung oil will have no additives! If you see additive you are probably using a wiping or oil varnish mix, which may or may not contain Tung oil. That is okay too just follow direction information on container for application.

Using pure Tung oil, light coats, let dry and sand between applications. It takes six or more coats to get a satin finish that is waterproof and stops exchange of water vapor. Do not try rushing the process. Too heavy coating can turn white. Only way to fix that is sand down and reapply thin coats of Tung oil.

Why use pure Tung oil finish? Like Shellac, Tung oil is a Green," finish. Is it okay to sell pens with either Shellac or Tung oil finish? Sure why not, people buying that pen comfortable with look and feel of the pen! No, neither Shellac nor Tung oil considered a durable finish.

I use a click pen finished with Crystal Coat daily no longer shinny. I like the wood feel, been using it for more than five years. The finish is on the pen may be lacking, but no dirt, grime, or scratches on the wood.

 

[BigguyZ]

Finishes are a sore subject for many woodworkers. There's a LOt of commercialism and marketing in them, and companies intentionally hide or misrepresent what's truely in the product.

I've used 100% tung oil before to try to finish some speakers. Now, I liked the color of it a lot, and when it was set it looked fabulous. However, it's not going to fill pores, and it takes forever to dry. I had the speakers in a closet overnight with a heater going, and it was still wet/ tacky the next day! I ended up wiping the excess off and using a poly.

If you want a durable, natural finish, I'd reccomend one or two coats of thin CA sanded on with 400 grit. That'll give you protection, but it won't be a super shiney and smooth finish that some people dislike as looking too plastic.

 

[AeroClassics]

Ah the glorious world of finishes! The furniture guys have gone round and round this topic forever. The information presented here is correct. Oil finishes breakdown into 3 basic categories: 1) Raw - this would be raw linseed oil or raw tung oil. These do take a very long time to dry but are quite beautiful and rub out very nicely. This category also contains one natural drying oil which is walnut oil. Walnut is not appropriate for a pen unless you are after a particular 'fee' and expect the oils and things on the users hands to patina the pen body over time; 2) Polymerized Oil finishes - these finishes range from Tried and True and other green finishes that contain either tung or linseed oil that has been "boiled" to increase the drying time. There are also "pure" tung and linseed finishes that have metallic Japan driers added to decrease the dry time. Make a great finish and rub out nicely! Dry somewhat faster but still looking at weeks for a full cure; 3) Oil Varnishes or wiping varnishes - these contain either tung or linseed oil, resins and solvents. The idea is to create a varnish that is easy to apply, dry's fairly quickly and can be rubbed out. My personal favorite is Waterlox which I use on furniture. I have only tried Waterlox once on a pen and didn't put enough coats on to get the finish I was looking for. I will try it again.

Doug