Wood prep....

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SDB777

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Feb 6, 2010
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I looked all through this sub-forum...searched, but nothing helpful.

I have some wormy, spalted persimmon wood that I have been cutting into pen blanks. Some of the wood has 'missing dust'(for lack of better description) in the worm holes, and the holes go all the way through the wood to the other side. Can't CA what isn't there, and mixing up some sort of stuff with CA and pushing it into the holes doesn't seem like the best idea, and could possible result in a 'funny looking' color that doesn't seem correct for the wood.


Now I'm thinking about the possibility of casting these blanks, or at least prepping them for those that are already casting.

#1: What is the method of choice amongst the pros here to clean the worm trails?
#2: Are worm hole blanks worth even cleaning up to use in casting?

If anyone has any thoughts or what not, feel free to let me know...I'm sure as these questions get answered it may possibly 'spawn' more questions. Sort of a never ending process of learning......



Scott (another expensive hobby probably) B
 
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Don't know if this helps... I have some Spalted Pecan with "worm" holes. I've slated it for a copper kit and have (collected) some copper filings that I'm going to use to fill the holes. Is that something you had in mind?
 
Don't know if this helps... I have some Spalted Pecan with "worm" holes. I've slated it for a copper kit and have (collected) some copper filings that I'm going to use to fill the holes. Is that something you had in mind?



Was actually thinking something along the lines similiar to WW(worthless wood) stuff. But that is an exellent idea....



Scott (might be cheaper too) B
 
Update....

I sent this chunk of wood off to Eugene and had him do his magic! Not sure how/what he did to the wood to get the worm 'pooh' out, but it worked!



Scott (just got a pot myself.....) B
 
What I did; get a 12 pack and find a comfortable place to sit. Get a dremel with assorted bits and a "high pressure" air gun, around 300 psi (I have a scuba tank rigged with a regulator that puts out 600 psi) you can use a regular 150 psi compressor but it will take longer and doesn't really get deep enough. If you use high pressure use gloves. Now, sit comfortably and follow the trails with the dremel and bits then use the air to blow out the stuff. Use eye protection bec some will blow back on you and the dry "frass" is pretty hard and stings, definitely dont want it in your eyes.

For a slow method you can soak the blanks in water and it will soften the frass then do the above...only problem is then you have to dry the blanks...so it takes longer. You can also use a pressure washer with a precision jet tip...just do it in an open area in case the blank goes flying you can see where it lands.

By now you should be done with the 12 pack ;)

Good luck,
Eugene.
 
What I did; get a 12 pack and find a comfortable place to sit. Get a dremel with assorted bits and a "high pressure" air gun, around 300 psi (I have a scuba tank rigged with a regulator that puts out 600 psi) you can use a regular 150 psi compressor but it will take longer and doesn't really get deep enough. If you use high pressure use gloves. Now, sit comfortably and follow the trails with the dremel and bits then use the air to blow out the stuff. Use eye protection bec some will blow back on you and the dry "frass" is pretty hard and stings, definitely dont want it in your eyes.

For a slow method you can soak the blanks in water and it will soften the frass then do the above...only problem is then you have to dry the blanks...so it takes longer. You can also use a pressure washer with a precision jet tip...just do it in an open area in case the blank goes flying you can see where it lands.

By now you should be done with the 12 pack ;)

Good luck,
Eugene.

Thanks for the info Eugene! I have some wormy wood that I wanted to cast and I was thinking of doing the same as you discussed. Now I know that is the correct way, maybe I will get to it sooner.
 
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