White Alumilite

[clarkhall]

Is white Alumilite suitable for worthless wood casting without a pressure pot where the wood is about 90% to 95% of the final blank? If so, how does adding Alumilite dyes differ from the Alumilite clear as far as final result?

Clark

 

[MesquiteMan]

Sure, the white Alumilite will work for Worthless Wood. Just make sure you have an escape path for any trapped air, ie, no overhangs, etc. You may not get good penetration into the smallest cracks without pressure, though. The good thing is that the white is the thinnest Alumilite they make so that will help you some.

As for coloring...working with the white is a little tricky at first. You will think you have a real nice, dark color, but when it goes off and the white kicks in, it will be MUCH lighter than you thought. When mixed, the 2 parts are not white. They are actually a dark brownish yellow. When the resin kicks off, it turns white.

 

[TomW]

Also, dont waste your time with Pearl-ex if you are using white. Wont get any pearl.

Tom

 

[clarkhall]

Thank you for the replys.

How much Alumilite dye should I add as a starting point to get a dark solid color?
Or maybe I should be asking - how much dye is too much?

Clark

 

[Texatdurango]

Thank you for the replys.

How much Alumilite dye should I add as a starting point to get a dark solid color?
Or maybe I should be asking - how much dye is too much?

Clark

I use the white to make nice solid colors using the Alumilite dyes. Here is an example to give you an idea;

I use the round ice cube trays commonly found at Walmart and find that it takes 78 grams to fill three tubes, 39 A and 39 B. If I want to make a bright yellow I will add 24 drops of yellow dye. Adding a few drops more or less will make a big difference so keep track of your formula in case you want to duplicate for another pen or batch of pens.

Here is an example of the yellow I am talking about along with a red/orange... http://www.penturners.org/forum/showthread.php?t=54443

When I experiment, I mix tiny 10 gram amounts, 5 grams A and 5 grams B in small cups then add 3 or 4 drops keeping exact records. You would be surprised what shade difference there will be with just one, more or less drop of dye. When I get the shade I want, I simply multiply everything, grams and drops and so far it works out just fine.

Trust me, write each experiment down and remember where you wrote it down so you can duplicate it the next time rather than relying on memory or figuring out what you wrote the formula on, DAMHIK :biggrin:

 

[TomW]

I did the same with this, but forgot to write down the recipe....:curse: . Took about 5 attempts for both colors (white was first try!).
Tom

 

[wolftat]

When mixed, the 2 parts are not white. They are actually a dark brownish yellow. When the resin kicks off, it turns white.

Now you have me a little confused, I mix mine and it turns a cloudy white and then clear when completely mixed, then I add my coloring agents. Are you thinking of the tan Alumilite?

 

[Texatdurango]

I did the same with this, but forgot to write down the recipe....:curse: . Took about 5 attempts for both colors (white was first try!).
Tom

Tom, Looks like we've been down the same road, I was editing my post the same time you posted. Isn't it nice to have a little notebook in the shop now? :biggrin:

 

[MesquiteMan]

Now you have me a little confused, I mix mine and it turns a cloudy white and then clear when completely mixed, then I add my coloring agents. Are you thinking of the tan Alumilite?

Oops, Neil, you are right! I have used all of them and got them confused!

 

[wolftat]

I've made a few red (pink) blanks as well.

 

[wolftat]

Oops, Neil, you are right! I have used all of them and got them confused!

I have the tan as well but barely use it, does it color well?

 

[Texatdurango]

Oops, Neil, you are right! I have used all of them and got them confused!

Well, that and getting old and having brain cells die off by the millions! :biggrin:

I mixed some more tinted white yesterday and learned something I sorta already knew.... the alumilite does not like a 35 degree shop! 'Course you in your fancy schmancy shop wouldn't know anything about a cold shop! :biggrin:

Clark, If it's cold you really ought to pre warm your molds if you don't already! Else, it takes FOREVER for the white to set!

 

[Texatdurango]

I have the tan as well but barely use it, does it color well?

Yeah..... if you want a tan version of the color you are using!

I tried using several colors with tan and gave up because they all look "muddy" rather than vibrant. The tan really shows it's presence.

 

[wolftat]

Yeah..... if you want a tan version of the color you are using!

I tried using several colors with tan and gave up because they all look "muddy" rather than vibrant. The tan really shows it's presence.

That's what i always thought about it, I figured i would ask, maybe someone had a way of working it. My tan is almost 2 years old and is probably ready to be turned into paperweights.

 

[TomW]

ready to be turned into paperweights.

...or coffee bean blanks....

Tom

 

[clarkhall]

George,

Thank you for the detailed reply. I am sure there will be many trials, but with your help, I should at least be in the ball park.

My shop is in the basement and the temperature hangs around 60 degrees during the winter and 65 degrees in the summer, so hopefully that is ok.

Tom,

Is the blank and pen photo in your reply made from white Alumilite? It looks great.

Clark

 

[ElMostro]

I have the tan as well but barely use it, does it color well?

Neil, what George said. It's hard to get the tan to color correctly, even if you THINK you remember how many drops of dye you used the "other time". I have made several casts the same day using the "same formula" and when the casts were side by side there was still a hint od a different shade.

Hey George, having a notebook handy to write the formulas is really helpful, I call mine the "Book of Secrets" it died last week though...I was making a 30 oz mix of the Tan and tipped it over on the book, the pages sucked up enough of the alumilite to ruin the book, many of the pages stuck together and the ones that did not are now "stabilized" and feel like thin veneer, luckily I can still read the red writing through the alumilite but I am now going to several hundred "Post-it" where I had originally wrote the notes trying to recover the the formulas...

 

[TomW]

Tom,

Is the blank and pen photo in your reply made from white Alumilite? It looks great.

Clark

Thanks. No sir, the pen and blank in my sig line is Crystal Clear Alumilite with Sparkle Gold Pearl-ex, and Texas ironwood.
Tom

 

[jason_r]

Neil, what George said. It's hard to get the tan to color correctly, even if you THINK you remember how many drops of dye you used the "other time". I have made several casts the same day using the "same formula" and when the casts were side by side there was still a hint od a different shade.

Hey George, having a notebook handy to write the formulas is really helpful, I call mine the "Book of Secrets" it died last week though...I was making a 30 oz mix of the Tan and tipped it over on the book, the pages sucked up enough of the alumilite to ruin the book, many of the pages stuck together and the ones that did not are now "stabilized" and feel like thin veneer, luckily I can still read the red writing through the alumilite but I am now going to several hundred "Post-it" where I had originally wrote the notes trying to recover the the formulas...

That's part of the reason I keep my Resin color library. If I destroy the current copy of my recipe I go print another one.

 

[jason_r]

Well, that and getting old and having brain cells die off by the millions! :biggrin:

I mixed some more tinted white yesterday and learned something I sorta already knew.... the alumilite does not like a 35 degree shop! 'Course you in your fancy schmancy shop wouldn't know anything about a cold shop! :biggrin:

Clark, If it's cold you really ought to pre warm your molds if you don't already! Else, it takes FOREVER for the white to set!

Try doing the Crystal clear in 110+F temps. Instead of a 5+min working
time I've demolded in <5 min.

 

[Texatdurango]

Try doing the Crystal clear in 110+F temps. Instead of a 5+min working
time I've demolded in <5 min.

Since we're all sharing tips and stories and Clark might be interested in hearing this.....

When I ordered my last batch of white resin, I was whining to Carol about how fast the regular or "almond" was setting up and that I barely had time to pour the resin over the coffee beans before dropping the mold into the pressure pot before it began setting up.

She recommended doing three things to give me more working time and a more bubble free cast:

1. refrigerate the resin before use, this alone might add almost a full minute of working time, and that would be great since I barely have that now all together!

2. Mix the beans with part A then add part B THEN pour the whole mix into the mold rather than trying to pour the resin over beans already in the mold.

3. Pre-heat the mold

Haven't tried it yet but hope it works

 

[TomW]

2. Mix the beans with part A then add part B THEN pour the whole mix into the mold rather than trying to pour the resin over beans already in the mold.

That is essentially what I ended up doing with crushed red pepper and Crystal Clear. It's great not to have to worry about full coverage once you pot time has started.

Tom

 

[clarkhall]

I would like to thank everyone for their advice. The depth of knowledge on this site is incredible.

I need to spend a week traveling. When I get back, hopefully my supplies will be waiting for me. Then I can resume my descent deeper into the vortex.

Thanks again.

Clark