Which saw would you start with???

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Fish30114

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If you were going to start segmenting, what saw would you choose as the ideal saw for this endeavor? I think I would want a very thin kerf saw, in fact I don't even know what type saw gives you the thinnest kerf. Are there custom modeling saws that would be preferred? Is a scroll saw the way to go. As you can tell I am ignorant on this topic and wide open as to what saw to purchase.

Thanks for any info/feedback--Don
 
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Plus 1 on the Byrnes model makers saw, but you are going to pay for the precision. You could also invest in one of the Inca precision jigs and use it with a band saw, table saw or homemade setup. I myself, use a mini table saw with custom made jigs or a band saw with the Inca jig set up. This will give you paper thin repeatable precision cuts. For larger work, Ken's suggestions are spot on if cost is no object. Jim S
 
Don; The blade is more important than the saw. You can put a 7-1/4" carbide tipped circular saw blade on a table saw. You have to cut slowly as the blade will resonate (sing) and widen the kerf. Note: A 7-1/4 " blade doesn't work on a Saw-Stop equipped saw.

A scroll saw makes the smallest kerf with the band saw a close second. With either of these, you need a sled of some sort. Scroll saws and band saws are not meant to cut straight lines.

Jim; What Incra Jig are you talking about? Can you point me in the right direction?
 
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Thanks for the feedback fellas. I have seen the Byrnes stuff before, and that equipment is not out of the budget zone. I have a small Rikon 110 (read benchtop) band saw, but Rikon must have been in a bad mood the day they designed that saw, it has a 5/8 slot in the table--every decent miter attachment I have found is made for the standard, which is a 3/4 inch slot. I am willing to buy the Byrnes saw--what all accessories should I get for that saw??

I really like some of the blanks I have seen people make that have aluminum or other metals running through them in some fashion---I would like to set that as a goal, to build a quality version of a blank like that!
 
randyrls said:
Don; The blade is more important than the saw. You can put a 7-1/4" carbide tipped circular saw blade on a table saw. You have to cut slowly as the blade will resonate (sing) and widen the kerf. Note: A 7-1/4 " blade doesn't work on a Saw-Stop equipped saw.

A scroll saw makes the smallest kerf with the band saw a close second. With either of these, you need a sled of some sort. Scroll saws and band saws are not meant to cut straight lines.

Jim; What Incra Jig are you talking about? Can you point me in the right direction?
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Randy I have to disagree with you in saying "the saw doesn't matter, it's the blade that's more important. The most important tool in segmenting is the type of jig you use to make repeatable and precise cuts no matter what saw or blade you use. Also, band saws and scroll saws, are made and can be used to make straight cuts as well as curves. Both require proper tuning, a sled, and a fence or jig for this purpose as does a table saw. After doing many segmented pens, I find a table saw or miter saw much to powerful to do work with such small pieces, and prefer the band saw running at a much slower speed, equipped with a sliding sled, and precise jigs safer, more repeatable, and more forgiving to use. As for the Incra Jig I use on the band saw, it's the one sold for making dovetails and repeated cuts. Really just a precise resetable ruler. I am sending you a PM to explain how I use it. Jim S
 
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Hey Grampy, that saw looks very interesting, I doesn't offer much info on the website. Do you have one of these saws? Like the Byrnes saw, I am curious as to which attachments I should get if I go that route. Seems like they manufacture very high precision stuff.

Thanks for the lead--Don
 
Well shoot Grampy, you're the guy I need to be asking, having both saws--but no opinion :wink:

Which saw is heavier and/or is one easier to work with than the other?

Thanks much--Don
 
I think the byrnes is a little heavier with the motor. The JointMaker is larger in size. They also have a stand that you can put the JM on so it is the right height. The JM uses a Japanese type saw blade that gives a smooth clean cut.
 
OK Grampy, thanks for the intel. I can buy both, but I would prefer to only buy one of them. I have the benchtop Rikon bandsaw, but it has a funky (5/8") slot in the table, so getting a good miter setup for it has been challenging to say the least--got nothing so far!
 
My 2 cents, Google "segmenting sleds for bandsaw". Do a lot of reading and taking notes. The 5/8" slot is no big deal if you build a sled with runners to fit the table and groove of your bandsaw.

Next, do the same for table saws. If you can figure out the sleds and tune the saws, anything is possible.
 
Dogcatcher, that's good advice I appreciate it--I will do that on the sleds. I don't know if there is another blade I could get for my Rikon that would be preferred, I bought an upgrade blade when I got my saw...a ever evolving venture fueled by this pen thing!
 
I use my band saw for all of my segmenting. It hasn't let me down yet! I also use a sliding table that I made myself with just a few hours of work. As previously stated the most important thing is to be able to repeat your cuts. I usually need to sand also to get a nice smooth surface. I don't have unlimited funds to just purchase those fancy machines if I did maybe I would though ;>) My entire shop consists of 5 tools for pen making!

Lathe, Dust Collector, Band saw, Drum sander and a grinder equipped with a oneway sharpening system. Now all of these tools include attachments and such but I don't have any of the fancy machines and that is what the point is.
 
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If you're cutting small pieces and on a budget, should you consider a micro table saw with a 2 inch blade, like the one sold by PSI or Harbor Freight?


My funds are a tad bit short, myself ... I use a home made rigged vacumn cleaner for dust collection, I have a micro lathe, a drill press, a sander, and a combination miter saw ... all the tools are from Harbor Freight.

What money I have, I spend on the pen kits. :)
 
Skie_M said:
If you're cutting small pieces and on a budget, should you consider a micro table saw with a 2 inch blade, like the one sold by PSI or Harbor Freight?


My funds are a tad bit short, myself ... I use a home made rigged vacumn cleaner for dust collection, I have a micro lathe, a drill press, a sander, and a combination miter saw ... all the tools are from Harbor Freight.

What money I have, I spend on the pen kits. :)
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Keep your receipt when you buy that saw. Looks like it has a sewing machine motor to me. Can't imagine trying to cut hardwood with that thing! Even a junky old craftsman off Craigslist is going to be better than that. If I was building doll house furniture, maybe.
 
Well, then I may as well keep using that HFT Miter Saw...

But that tiny little saw does have the power to slice right through brass tubes, acrylic, and most hardwoods with ease ... I'll have to ask if it can actually handle ebony and pieces of aluminum.

I think my next purchase will be a small table saw from HFT. I know the fence isn't worth crap, but I can build my own fence. I just need something that I can use for ripping stock. Perhaps I can mount a very thin kerf blade in the table saw, but I'm not one for skimping on safety with a thing like that .... seen a kid in wood shop loose most of his middle fingers due to a kickback where he slapped the board back down onto the saw table and the blade came up right under his hand.

I don't even like messing with a circular saw, after seeing that happen up close.
 
Skie_M said:
I think my next purchase will be a small table saw from HFT. I know the fence isn't worth crap, but I can build my own fence. I just need something that I can use for ripping stock. Perhaps I can mount a very thin kerf blade in the table saw, but I'm not one for skimping on safety with a thing like that
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I have used some real junkers of table saws and bandsaws for segmenting. But I used a sled with all of them. But because of a spinal compression 16 years ago I haven't done any power saw segmenting since. My thoughts are is, "if" you can dial in the sled with the angles, and use the miter gauge slots to guide the sled that just about any table saw will work. Even the HF clunker table saw should be sufficient.
 
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