which is best for stabilization

Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
markgum

markgum

Member
Joined
Apr 8, 2008
Messages
3,831
Location
Keenesburg, CO
I have several blanks of spalted wood, that I would like to stabilize before I attempt to turn them. I see information on the product called Ultraseal, but was also curious if one is able to stabilize with aluminite? I also found info on Woodcraft's web site about a product there pentacryl and I think I read someplace about a minwax wood stabilizing product also.
But can't find that. But maybe that is dreaming..:confused:
Since I have my pressure pot all set up and ready to go, and with the temp in the high 90s now, wanted to experiment before we get HOT again.
thanks.
 
Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
Ultraseal works but it is the most expensive way. Minwax is cheaper and easier to get. I think pentacryl is more of a wood sealer. I haven't tried to stabilize with any resin yet.
 
Pentacryl :frown: is best for use on green wood (freshly cut living trees.) I do not believe you will be pleased with it's use elsewhere. Finishing is a PITA from many of the horror stories I have read about here and elsewhere.

I do not use acrylic resins myself so can't really give any insight on them. Ask our fellow IAP member Mesquiteman for his input on this as he is "the man" on this subject in my book. :biggrin:

Ultraseal (http://www.ultrasealant.com/ - click on the logo to enter site)may be costly, but the reported results are extremely acceptable. It is the same type chemical used by the professional stabilizers. Although the pros use some similar type "stuff" (maybe be the same stuff as many of the chemical components/ingredients have the same names) they also have many, many hours of experimentation and tens of thousands of dollars invested in their equipment. Therefore, their results will quite possibly be far superior to us 'home brewers!'

Minwax is good for many things and from my limited experience does a good job. It is available from paint departments in Home Depot, Lowes, various hardware stores. A can of the stuff is expensive in relation to the amount purchased.

For my money, and from all the favorable information I have read so far, I would go for the Ultraseal. Go to their website and read up on the company's prior history on the chemical AND their experience in the market. They make some of the best stabilization equipment out there and have a history to prove their product works.
 
Alumilite is not going to penetrate the wood very much. It will penetrate a little on the outside, but you'll spin that off in no time. Pentacryl is for stabilizing wet wood..to stop it from cracking and splitting..totally different than what you want. I would do what so many others do and use the minwax. Drill a hole just a hair smaller than what you want it to be. Put the minwax in a jar, put the blanks in the jar, close the lid and walk away for a few weeks. The minwax will penetrate at least enough for a fairly stable blank if not more because the pen is only so thick and you drilled it before stabilizing. Nothing against Utraseal..I have no doubt it's the best way to go, if you have the equipment for it.
 
workinforwood said:
Put the minwax in a jar, put the blanks in the jar, close the lid and walk away for a few weeks. The minwax will penetrate....
Click to expand...

To speed things up a bit you can put the wood into a jar, cover the wood with Minwax, then place the jar into a pan of very hot water. Let the Minwax heat a bit and then seal the jar with a tight fitting lid. You may have to change the water a time or two to get it hot, just keep ALL water from getting into the Minwax. You don't have to boil the water. but if you can it would work better.

When the Minwax cools down it will create a vacuum in the jar and pull the Minwax into the wood faster. Kinda like making jelly the ole fashioned way!
 
I've been using minwax, you can find it at Lowe's or HD.

What Ive been doing is drilling out the center like I would when preparing a normal blank for tube insertion. Then pour the minwax hardener in a small mold or bowl, put in your blank, put something to weight it down ( like a not-as-porous wood ) and with a lid over it, let it sit for a day or two to allow the hardener to soak into the wood so that it soaks into the area that your more likely going to need it.... which is near the center where your tubes will be. When you remove your blanks, you can pour the excess liquid back into the container from which it came, put the lid back, and store it for later.

This way your not wasting the extra hardener, and you're getting the hardener where it really needs to be. It's worked well for me to this point.

You are going to want to let the blanks sit for a day before turning, so they dry out.

Warning though, don't try it inside the house, this stuff is STRONG!!!
 
Fred said:
To speed things up a bit you can put the wood into a jar, cover the wood with Minwax, then place the jar into a pan of very hot water. Let the Minwax heat a bit and then seal the jar with a tight fitting lid. You may have to change the water a time or two to get it hot, just keep ALL water from getting into the Minwax. You don't have to boil the water. but if you can it would work better.

When the Minwax cools down it will create a vacuum in the jar and pull the Minwax into the wood faster. Kinda like making jelly the ole fashioned way!
Click to expand...

I like that idea Fred, maybe with a combination of drilling and your idea of warming it up to create the vacuum would work even better. I may try that the next time I do that.
 
Fred said:
To speed things up a bit you can put the wood into a jar, cover the wood with Minwax, then place the jar into a pan of very hot water. Let the Minwax heat a bit and then seal the jar with a tight fitting lid. You may have to change the water a time or two to get it hot, just keep ALL water from getting into the Minwax. You don't have to boil the water. but if you can it would work better.

When the Minwax cools down it will create a vacuum in the jar and pull the Minwax into the wood faster. Kinda like making jelly the ole fashioned way!
Click to expand...

Remember to watch this pot!!! It takes very little for the Minwax to start to boil and before you know it you'll have a big mess. Also, do not do this over an open flame!!! Minwax is flammable!!!

Like they said......once the Minwax has gotten hot....take it out of the water bath and screw your lid on tight and in no time it will pull a vaccuum.

Enjoy & be safe out there!!!


Barney
 
thanks all for your input. I think I'll try the minwax option once my kids eat all the pickles from the gallon jar. :wink:
 
Pickle Jar

That is what i use. But i set it out in the sun with the wood in the jar and the lid slightly ajar. The best time would be at the hottest point in the day and then close the jar completly and put it in the wookshop for a day or too. I don't even drill the blanks and it soaks all the way thru. The heat of the day heats up the jar and solution and it works itself. Cost nothing for the heat and water. May as well get some use out of this 90 plus weather. :biggrin::biggrin::biggrin: /call me cheap but it works.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom