Which FP nib photo is best?
- Thread starter les-smith
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johncrane
Member
Les l would go with the last photo.[
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LanceD
Member
Last one also but I think it needs to be edited with a little more light.
Firefyter-emt
Member
To be honest, I think what is shown.. No-2 because it's the one showing the least fine scratches. The tines also appear very tight in that photo where the 1st one looks almost defective.
Fred
Member
Les ... Try this method. I am assuming you are using -or have - a tripod to hold your camera so ...
1) Get a large piece of white poster board, something along 36" square or thereabouts. If white turns out to "burn up" the really fine engraved details try a black or dark grey piece.
2) Carefully cut an opening that will allow the front of the lens to slip into. Make the opening as small as possible and allow the front of the lens to 'peek' through it. Actually allow the cardboard to hang on the lens.
3) Move the product forward a bit to avoid the curve of the background being in focus at all and also this will eliminate the slight shadow. You can even make the curve of the background a bit shallower and not at such a sharp angle as to be visible to the camera.
4) Put the cardboard and camera lens inside the light tent and drape the light tent material over the top and edges and out of your way.
5) Illuminate the light tent and pay attention to the reflection of the cardboard on your product.
6) Move the camera and cardboard towards or away from the product until the reflections are pleasing or eliminated.
7) Take the picture using as small an aperture as the camera will allow, probably along the openings of F22 or there-abouts.
8) Compose the produce in the viewfinder keeping in mind the size of the picture to be posted here. Keep the left and right background equal as well as the top and bottom areas. Look at these areas as if they were a frame - which they are in a way.
8) Take the picture and adjust the shutter speed as necessary to get a decent exposure.
AVOID wide open exposures (F2.0, F3.5, F4, etc.) as your focus will suffer drastically. The smaller aperture (F16, F22, etc.) increases the depth of field of the focal point and the detail will increase immensely (a good thing).
IF you can't get a decent exposure by changing the shutter speed, then OPEN the aperture from say F22 to F16 and retake the pictures. Keep making adjustments until you get a decent exposure.
Play around with the lighting to enhance detail keeping the light a bit back from any material to avoid 'hot spots' and/or scorching of the cloth. Ensure that you DO NOT heavily illuminate the white cardboard so much so that it burns out any detail with it's reflection in the polished surfaces. Move the lighting if necessary and try tilting the cardboard and/or the product a bit to cut back on some heavy and direct lighting.
Nothing says you cannot make changes, but it is easier to get the camera set up in such a way that you can get inside the photographed area to move the product, or change to another pen, etc. Don't crowd yourself so much that you can't move around with a fair amount of ease. Look through the view finder with each change and observe the effect of moving lights around. Even tilting the pen can make a big difference in reflections. Try to get the reflection of the cardboard to show the detail in the engraving and keep the reflection evenly spread along the shiny metal.
Try this and re-post the results and let's see how you made 'it' better. Get'er done! []
1) Get a large piece of white poster board, something along 36" square or thereabouts. If white turns out to "burn up" the really fine engraved details try a black or dark grey piece.
2) Carefully cut an opening that will allow the front of the lens to slip into. Make the opening as small as possible and allow the front of the lens to 'peek' through it. Actually allow the cardboard to hang on the lens.
3) Move the product forward a bit to avoid the curve of the background being in focus at all and also this will eliminate the slight shadow. You can even make the curve of the background a bit shallower and not at such a sharp angle as to be visible to the camera.
4) Put the cardboard and camera lens inside the light tent and drape the light tent material over the top and edges and out of your way.
5) Illuminate the light tent and pay attention to the reflection of the cardboard on your product.
6) Move the camera and cardboard towards or away from the product until the reflections are pleasing or eliminated.
7) Take the picture using as small an aperture as the camera will allow, probably along the openings of F22 or there-abouts.
8) Compose the produce in the viewfinder keeping in mind the size of the picture to be posted here. Keep the left and right background equal as well as the top and bottom areas. Look at these areas as if they were a frame - which they are in a way.
8) Take the picture and adjust the shutter speed as necessary to get a decent exposure.
AVOID wide open exposures (F2.0, F3.5, F4, etc.) as your focus will suffer drastically. The smaller aperture (F16, F22, etc.) increases the depth of field of the focal point and the detail will increase immensely (a good thing).
IF you can't get a decent exposure by changing the shutter speed, then OPEN the aperture from say F22 to F16 and retake the pictures. Keep making adjustments until you get a decent exposure.
Play around with the lighting to enhance detail keeping the light a bit back from any material to avoid 'hot spots' and/or scorching of the cloth. Ensure that you DO NOT heavily illuminate the white cardboard so much so that it burns out any detail with it's reflection in the polished surfaces. Move the lighting if necessary and try tilting the cardboard and/or the product a bit to cut back on some heavy and direct lighting.
Nothing says you cannot make changes, but it is easier to get the camera set up in such a way that you can get inside the photographed area to move the product, or change to another pen, etc. Don't crowd yourself so much that you can't move around with a fair amount of ease. Look through the view finder with each change and observe the effect of moving lights around. Even tilting the pen can make a big difference in reflections. Try to get the reflection of the cardboard to show the detail in the engraving and keep the reflection evenly spread along the shiny metal.
Try this and re-post the results and let's see how you made 'it' better. Get'er done! [
]
ahoiberg
Member
i think #2 has a nice, kind of mysterious feel to it and shows off the nib well.
gketell
Local Chapter Leader
If you had just a bit more fill light on #2 I think it would be your best. It actually shows the two-tone the best. But the dark side is too dark compared to the highlights which are just a bit too bright.
GK
GK
Randy_
Member
I would say the answer is none of the above. Check out the pictures of nibs on Lou's and Anthony's web sites. Maybe you could contact one or the other of them for some tips. I assume they are taking their own pictures; but it is certainly possible they are using pictures from the manufacturer.
arioux
Member
Hi,
#2 has a more "pro" look.
Alfred
#2 has a more "pro" look.
Alfred
Mikey
Member
#2 has best shadowing, but #4 is better for seeing everything. As others have said, you need more light.
Rifleman1776
Member
#1 but lighten up a bit.
gerryr
Member
This is what #1 looks like lightened in Picasa. Paint Shop Pro could do a better job but I only have that at home.
DKF
Member
#2 for me.......
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