Blind_Squirrel
Member
I was at WalMart today and FINALLY found some bulbs marked DAYLIGHT 6500K. They have them from 10 watts and up. What is the best wattage to get for taking pen pics?
Which "Daylight" CFL bulbs?
- Thread starter Blind_Squirrel
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Fred
Member
Just how in the blue blazes is a "Blind Squirrel" going to be able to see to take pictures anyway? Had to ask that one!
Depending on the size of your setup I would choose the wattage that gives the most light over all the area of the work being photographed. One 60 watt bulb off to the side just is not the same as one to the left, one to the right, and another overhead and slightly out in front of your work. None of your lights should be "seen" by the lens and they should be away from any fabric you may be using as a light tent.
You also have to consider the amount of heat that is given off, but then again fluorescent lamps don't usually get that hot. That's a big plus when you have a lot of items to photograph.
One thing you shouldn't do ... NEVER mix lamps from different manufacturer's as the "color" of the lamps will be different. Never mix fluorescent and regular light bulbs either. If and when one bulb burns out - replace them all with new bulbs from the same maker. Use any that are still working someplace else.
Use fixtures that allow you to move the lights around a bit to change the positioning of reflections and shadows. The easier to move around the better. Just be sure they stay where they are put.
I am going out on a limb here since you didn't say what camera - film or digital - you are going to be using. I would imagine that you will be using a digital given the day and age. Either way, take a series of pictures starting at 1/60 or 1/125 second with the camera mounted on a good, sturdy tripod. Start at F2.0 or the widest aperture your lens has. Change each exposure by one F-stop F/2.0, F/2.5, F3.5, F/4.8, etc. until you have used the entire range of F-stops on the lens. Do not change the shutter speed unless they are either all wrong ... in case they are all wrong change the shutter speed one speed higher if they are all over-exposed or one speed slower if they are all under-exposed. Either way make a series of all F-stops again.
If you will place the pen across the viewfinder and not with the camera looking at one end down the length of the pen I believe you will get a much better representation of your workmanship. Of course IF you are needing to photograph the nib or clip end, then that is where you aim. Logical right?
Then, have the film developed or download to the PC, whatever, and check to see which exposure and shutter speed gives you the best color, detail, and focus. Always start at the same F-stop and go all the way through the others in order. Build consistency in what you do as you take all your test photographs.
Use that shutter speed and F-stop combo that looks the best and proceed to take photographs of several other pens. Darker color pens will require a little more light and lighter one's will need less compared to your initial "test" pen. Change the F-stop and leave the speed alone. 1/125th is a lot steadier than a 1/30th exposure. Use a cable release if possible or the camera's timer if you have to use a slow shutter speed.
Learn to compose your photographs in the lens finder and look closely for adverse reflections ... make lighting corrections by moving them a bit, and then 'click' the shutter and go to the next one on the list. Good luck and let us know how you do! :biggrin:
Depending on the size of your setup I would choose the wattage that gives the most light over all the area of the work being photographed. One 60 watt bulb off to the side just is not the same as one to the left, one to the right, and another overhead and slightly out in front of your work. None of your lights should be "seen" by the lens and they should be away from any fabric you may be using as a light tent.
You also have to consider the amount of heat that is given off, but then again fluorescent lamps don't usually get that hot. That's a big plus when you have a lot of items to photograph.
One thing you shouldn't do ... NEVER mix lamps from different manufacturer's as the "color" of the lamps will be different. Never mix fluorescent and regular light bulbs either. If and when one bulb burns out - replace them all with new bulbs from the same maker. Use any that are still working someplace else.
Use fixtures that allow you to move the lights around a bit to change the positioning of reflections and shadows. The easier to move around the better. Just be sure they stay where they are put.
I am going out on a limb here since you didn't say what camera - film or digital - you are going to be using. I would imagine that you will be using a digital given the day and age. Either way, take a series of pictures starting at 1/60 or 1/125 second with the camera mounted on a good, sturdy tripod. Start at F2.0 or the widest aperture your lens has. Change each exposure by one F-stop F/2.0, F/2.5, F3.5, F/4.8, etc. until you have used the entire range of F-stops on the lens. Do not change the shutter speed unless they are either all wrong ... in case they are all wrong change the shutter speed one speed higher if they are all over-exposed or one speed slower if they are all under-exposed. Either way make a series of all F-stops again.
If you will place the pen across the viewfinder and not with the camera looking at one end down the length of the pen I believe you will get a much better representation of your workmanship. Of course IF you are needing to photograph the nib or clip end, then that is where you aim. Logical right?
Then, have the film developed or download to the PC, whatever, and check to see which exposure and shutter speed gives you the best color, detail, and focus. Always start at the same F-stop and go all the way through the others in order. Build consistency in what you do as you take all your test photographs.
Use that shutter speed and F-stop combo that looks the best and proceed to take photographs of several other pens. Darker color pens will require a little more light and lighter one's will need less compared to your initial "test" pen. Change the F-stop and leave the speed alone. 1/125th is a lot steadier than a 1/30th exposure. Use a cable release if possible or the camera's timer if you have to use a slow shutter speed.
Learn to compose your photographs in the lens finder and look closely for adverse reflections ... make lighting corrections by moving them a bit, and then 'click' the shutter and go to the next one on the list. Good luck and let us know how you do! :biggrin:
gerryr
Member
That was an awful lot of words to not even answer the question. 23W is the minimum and if you can get 27 or even 30W, that's even better. If you want a copy of my article, send me a PM with your email address. Last I looked the 2008 Articles hadn't made the migration yet.
Fred
Member
OK, excuse me!
Mikey
Member
Fred, you may not have answered the question directly, but you did provide a great bit of useful information. Thanks!
Blind_Squirrel
Member
Thanks to both of you!
Gary Max
Member
Lots of great info Fred---Thanks
Hi Fred; These are my sentiments as well! and I thank you!
novop711
Member
Fred, again, thanks for the info.
gerryr
Member
Useful information? Not really, in fact it is pretty much the opposite.
You own stock in light bulb manufacturers or something? This is just totally wrong. One of the single greatest things about digital is the ability to mix different types of lights: tungsten, incandescent, fluorescent, you name it. That's why digital cameras have a white balance setting. This was accurate before the digital era, but not anymore. This statement alone makes me question whether you have ever used a digital camera or know anything about them.
You own stock in light bulb manufacturers or something? This is just totally wrong. One of the single greatest things about digital is the ability to mix different types of lights: tungsten, incandescent, fluorescent, you name it. That's why digital cameras have a white balance setting. This was accurate before the digital era, but not anymore. This statement alone makes me question whether you have ever used a digital camera or know anything about them.