babyblues
Member
Does it matter if you cut a green burl into pen blanks or slabs to dry? How do some of you dry burl without too much checking and/or warping? I'm not even sure I'm asking the right questions.
What's the best way to dry a burl?
- Thread starter babyblues
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Gary Max
Member
All depends on what kind of wood it is and what you are wanting to end up with. Common rule would be cut it up---seal the ends and stack and store it in a dry place out of the sun where it can get air flow.
jrc
Member
I dry burl all the time. Cut in longer pieces like 3/4" X 3/4" or a little larger and leave in long pieces. Let dry for a few weeks and then cut to blank size and let dry another few weeks. To test, drill one or two blanks a let set a few days and see if the tube still slides in easily it is dry enought to use. If it is tight let them dry longer.
1JaredSchmidt
Member
I do what Jim said,except I dry in our food dehydrator. It works!
JohnU
Member
I cut mine up to 7/8" square by 6" and soak in denatured alcohol in cake pans for 2 days. Wrap each blank in a sheet of newspaper and put aside for 30 days. It like having another Christmas when it comes time to unwrap. I dry all of my selfwood this way and its working out great. If you decide to try this, buy your denatured alcohol by the gallon (pour the used back into the can when your done.) You'll save money in the long run if you continue to dry this way. I get mine at farm&fleet. I just finished unwrapping some white oak burl, amboyna burl and curly maple...
Most of my other blanks are self dried this way. Ive bought and traded for some but I like to cut my own any chance I get.
Types of oak, poplar, maple, cherry, hickory, lilac, osage, pear, mulberry, redbud, boxelder...
Most of my other blanks are self dried this way. Ive bought and traded for some but I like to cut my own any chance I get.
Types of oak, poplar, maple, cherry, hickory, lilac, osage, pear, mulberry, redbud, boxelder...
babyblues
Member
Nice collection! Gives me something to work toward.Originally posted by JohnU
I cut mine up to 7/8" square by 6" and soak in denatured alcohol in cake pans for 2 days. Wrap each blank in a sheet of newspaper and put aside for 30 days. It like having another Christmas when it comes time to unwrap. I dry all of my selfwood this way and its working out great. If you decide to try this, buy your denatured alcohol by the gallon (pour the used back into the can when your done.) You'll save money in the long run if you continue to dry this way. I get mine at farm&fleet. I just finished unwrapping some white oak burl, amboyna burl and curly maple...
Most of my other blanks are self dried this way. Ive bought and traded for some but I like to cut my own any chance I get.
Types of oak, poplar, maple, cherry, hickory, lilac, osage, pear, mulberry, redbud, boxelder...
I'll give that a try. I have this huge cherry burl that is still green. Where do you find most of your wood?
Rifleman1776
Member
I recently cut up some very wet Redbud burls. The wood warped on while being cut and even bound the bandsaw blade. Very ugly results. Fortunately I cut them way oversize. There are other big, burly, chunks in the garage that will be allowed to (somewhat) dry before I attempt cutting them. At least they won't be dripping water.
JohnU
Member
I get most of mine from friends. I have a few that cut trees on the side and they bring me the knots and odd growths. I repay them with a pen so it keeps them looking. Some I just stop and ask for a log or two when I see someone cutting a tree down. Good Luck!
Larry Gottlieb
Member
John,
What do you do to square the sides after the wood has dried?
Larry
What do you do to square the sides after the wood has dried?
Larry
JohnU
Member
I use a bandsaw to cut them into blanks when they are green but I dont usually have to do anything after they dry. Oak is the only wood I have found to change much (warp or bow). The rest of them are fairly straight from cutting on the bandsaw. If there is a real bad warp or bow I might trip them on the bandsaw before I drill but I dont usually have to. Since Im turning them anyhow, I dont worry about them not being perfect. I cut them at 7/8" so it also helps make sure if they do bow or warp a litte, that they are still thick enough to use or get around imperfections. You will want to use a large toothed low numbered per inch blade when cutting them green. If not, your small toothed blades will dull or fill full of wet sawdust, overheat and not cut easy. Hope this helps. John