What's the best deck sealant out there (especially for teak)?

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GouletPens

GouletPens

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I seal decks from time to time as a way to help my dad's powerwashing business, and I typically use CWF-UV with good success. I have one customer who is very particular about his deck and is paying a premium to have us clean it after a moron screwed it all up last year. Our normal process is good for 98% of people, but I want to make sure to really do this guy's deck right. I'm looking at CWF-UV5 which is a step up from the normal stuff. Whatever I use has to be water cleanup though, no oil. I need to be able to spray it in my airless sprayer. Also, the complication is that he has a huge hot tub enclosure that is teak, and I've never stained teak before. I've cleaned it, but never stained it.

So basically, is there any advice for a good outdoor sealant that I can spray in an airless sprayer that can be used on pressure treated pine AND teak? Thanks for your advice.
 
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This may be a totally silly suggestion, but can't you grab a teak pen blank out of your big bin o' blanks and spray it with the stuff you normally use to see if it properly takes the sealant?
 
I think teak is like cedar, it doesn't hold a finish. On cedar, it will peel/flake off.
 
Brian , fred is correct , check with a boat builder in your area for information on what is best for teak . I used to work in a boat yard building and repairing boats and we used to refinish Teak with regular Teak oil and Spar varnish . Teak oil is a penetrating oil but has no teak oil in it , go figure , it's acually Tung oil with special driers that allow the Teak oil to penetrate and dry IN not on the surface of the Teak wood .
 
Here's a product that works super good. One time wood. It's a 100% solid in a liquid form. Yea, it makes no sense, but neither does water based urethane. It is an incredible product, it is not cheap though. You should get 7-10 yrs. You can not apply it over an existing finish. Any finish that is there has to be removed. It also requires sunlight in order for the finish to cure. You don't have to have sunlight all day long, but you need at least a couple hours of sunlight to cure the finish. If you only have a couple hours of sunlight, it may take a couple days to fully cure, if you have no sunlight, it will not cure. It cures by UV.

http://www.onetimewood.com/Default.aspx

oh..btw, for cedar, one time works great. Tests showed a piece of cedar after 11 yrs was still protected..albeit on a fence. A deck takes a bit more abuse. The product goes into the wood like an oil finish and locks together by UV light. It's almost like a wood stablizer..or maybe it is a wood stabilizer. when properly applied, it looks like you have no finish on the wood at all. If over applied it will get shine spots. It is supposed to look like natural wood with absolutely nothing on it. There is no wax in it. Water does not damage a deck, sunlight does.
 
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It depends on what kind of finish you're after. You can leave teak unfinished and it will go gray. If you want a natural look that doesn't go gray as fast, use teak oil (and be prepared to oil again regularly). If you want a varnish, look for a good marine varnish with CETOL. It darkens the wood slightly (CETOL has a tint), and has good UV resistance. If there's a Boater's World near you, they might not have liquidated all their stock yet.

I used CWF-UV on my cedar deck once. It turned the wood orange - yuck.

Regards,
Eric
 
I wish I had a picture of this enclosure, it's incredibly elaborate....there is a trellace with 4" square openings.....that means hundreds of squares to have to coat....plus there are plexiglass windows to trim around with 4 panes in each window...4 windows on each side.....if I was going to hand rub oil on this monstrosity it would take me probably a week, not to mention the cost of the oil. And the fact my dad only quoted $100 for this guy really, really concerns me. I may just have to throw in the towel on this project and risk pissing the guy off if hand rubbing oil is my only option. Would an 'oil base water cleanup' deck sealant really be that bad on teak? I guess I could just to a test spot on it and see how it holds up for a week or so.....
 
I build a lot of decks on the homes that I build and I prefer Penofin or Cabot's Australian Timber Oil. Both can be applied with an airless and both work well on IPE. I do not use cedar, pressure treated, or anything else so am not sure how well it works with teak but I would think it would work just fine.
 
Crisis averted, it's not teak after all:tongue: I don't know exactly what it is, but I highly suspect it's redwood. There were a couple of stools that match the tub enclosure and I know how heavy they should have been if they were teak...and since redwood is so light (and also rot resistant) I greatly suspect it's teak. I ended up putting Flood CWF-UV5 on it, and it took it beautifully!!! I ran out of daylight and the rain is keeping me from going back, but I'll be able to finish it next week. WHEW!!
 
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