What to buy when getting started in casting?

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Pen_Turner

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I have read some threads and I believe I understand what it involves. I also understand that there is vacuum and pressure methods, correct? I was wondering what ALL I would need (from front to back) and about how much it would cost to round all of this up? I want to get into this and be able to make my own blanks. The color and swirl combos are endless and thats just too cool to me!! I hope to be able to get this stuff for Christmas. Any help would be appreciated friends!!
 
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First is to decide what your wanting to do. Just colors and swirls and such, then Simlar 41 maybe the way to go. It will cover most of the things your wanting to do with colors, casting snake skins, etc etc etc. If your going to do worthless wood casting you need Alumilite which bonds better to the wood. Then there are pigments, dyes, mixing cups, gloves, stir sticks and more. If your using worthless wood you need a pressure pot (pressure pot will also work for vacuum chamber). You can get away from not having to have a pressure pot doing colored blanks.
Molds there are several options here too, from pvc pipes, cutting board molds resin saver molds and so forth and so on.

Basic color mold casting to start from what I've gathered:
Resin
Mixing supplies(cups/stir sticks/dyes pigments/gloves)
Mold of some sort
If you spend wisely you should be able to start for about 50.00 or less, thats a small amount of resin.

Of course with so many options, I'd plan on more in the range of 150.00 to 200 range to start out if your serious. And it will go up from there.

If you can give more of an idea of what your wanting to do then I'm sure you'll get more answers.

James
 
If all you are going to make in the beginning is color swirl blanks then you don't need very much .
Polyester Resin or PR is available from several vendors . I use Silmar41 and I get it from www.uscomposites.com , in a gallon can it costs around $50 shipped . You can also buy Castincraft from Michaels for around $35 a quart and if you can get a coupon it costs a little less .
You will also need the following ,
A mold of some kind either bought or made . You can make a quick mold from a plastic cutting board , the ones at wally world work for this .
Some way to color your resin . I use the Mica powders from www.coastalscents.com . The 1 oz containers will make many blanks and costs between $3.00 and $5.00 for most colors .
Mixing cups , I use the 8 oz plastic coated paper cups that I buy at the local supermarket , about $3.00 for 100 of them and wood popsicle/craft sticks from Michaels , about $5.00 for 1000 IIRC , bought them a long time ago .

With those few items you can start casting color blanks . If you want to cast labels and stuff you just need to be more careful about bubbles , read Don Wards tutorial on casting without a pressure pot . http://www.penturners.org/forum/showthread.php?t=48807&highlight=casting+pressure+pot
 
James (phunky_2003) , Thank you for the quick response. I definitely want to get into worthless woods quickly and as soon as I learn my basics. Thats something I am VERY interested in!! Is that going to make a difference price wise or equipment wise? I am wanting to get into this seriously, not just to play around, you know? As far as price, I dont mind spending a few hundred $150-$300 to get the proper stuff I need. Thanks , John
 
Butch (idb2000) I'll start out by doing colors and swirly's in the beginning but I want to move on fairly quickly. Your information was very helpful especially with the $$ prices. $$ That helps. I'm sure the mold or molds will be VERY interesting for me to figure out as well. LoL. Thanks guys, John
 
Just remember, woodturning is a vortex , penturning is a vortex and therefor casting is a vortex.
I plan to cast unusual stuff ,but can buy blanks cheaper than I can cast them (check out woodcraft blank sale )free shipping too. can also get code for added savings.I know this cause a buddy just did it.
 
John,

There is a tutorial on my website for making molds out of cutting boards. You can find it under the penturning resources menu. www.turntex.com Hope that helps some.
Thank you Curtis, I'll make sure to check it out. Every little bit of info helps when you're starting something new like this.
 
And after you spend a bunch of money and time-----it cost less to order the blanks.
Sorry but you will get a dozen different answers from 10 different people----and they are all right.
 
And after you spend a bunch of money and time-----it cost less to order the blanks.
Sorry but you will get a dozen different answers from 10 different people----and they are all right.
LoL Gary, I understand. It's kinda like the 50 different ways to do a CA finish, but we all end up with the basic same results.
 
Along these lines, I heard of the lore that there was a worthless wood tutorial at one time, does anyone know where that thread went to? I won't be doing this for a while, but some time in the future it would be nice to know how those blanks are made and come out so clean and square....
 
sorry if this is a repeat, but there is lore out there that a "worthless wood method" was a tutorial at one time, I see it referred to a lot in posts but can never find the document. Help please......I'd like to see how these blanks come out so tight and square....

thanks,

Steve
 
Hi Pen_Turner,

I can most certainly understand your enthusiasm and interest for the casting "madness" and self satisfaction or disappointment as a result but, there is ONE thing that I haven't notice you or anyone mention about the casting process there is, how you are going to react with the toxic fumes and smells of the resins...!:eek:

I certainly got caught by surprise when recently spend over $400 setting up myself for casting, particularly, "worthless wood" which I produce tons of it with my all blanks size cutting, selling and using, then my first cast happened and the "surprise" started when I open the tin of resin (PR) and start mixing things, then the problem (humongous headache) become a lot worse when I open the pressure pot to get the molds out the next day. It did affect me that much that I couldn't get within 15 meters from my shed, until I got the molds out of there and took them to the end of the back yard, for at least a week before I got the cast out of the molds.

I had 2 different types of PR resin to experiment, the first one was a quality casting resin (as they call it) and the second one was a crystal clear resin which and for reasons unknown, using the same 2% hardener as I did with the previous mix, the smell became unbearable as soon as I start mixing the hardener on it, I notice that the cups that I was supplied to mix the stuff with got melted through pretty fast, making a big mess while I was trying to pour what I could save into the molds.

Well, talking about strong fumes and smell...! that mix nearly knock my socks off, my shed is not enclosed but my eyes were burning too much to see what I was doing and my head felt that it was going to blow off my shoulders with pain. Breading...? what breading...? I was outside (open back yard) for a good 10 minutes before I could get a decent breath of air into my lungs.

That resin mix took about 2 weeks before it was hard enough to get off the molds and before I could trim them on the bandsaw. I used a chemical mask I had for spray painting to handle the second batch of blanks from the moment I got them off the pot, including the bandsaw trimming.

Since I manage to get Eugene (ElMonstro) to use some of my timbers in his Mutts, which he is doing a great job with them but I produce far more good timber for these type of worthless blanks than I would like so, I have plenty for sale and I have a mate that has offered to do all the resin mixing and handling at his place (same town). He worked for 20 years in a fiberglass factory so, he is very much "immune" to the smells but he has the right gear at home to work with fiberglass so I just tell him what I want done and he does it for me. The blanks stay in his place for 3 weeks after they come out of the molds, for drying, curing and losing most of the smell. This works alright as by the time I get them, there is almost no smell on them and I use the mask to quickly trim and sometimes cut the square corners on the bandsaw. After the resins are properly cured, I don't seem to have any reaction handling these blanks!:biggrin:

Anyway, the moral of the story is...think about the possibility that the resins can affect you and that you will require some safety equipment that can add a considerable cost to the exercise!

Apart from that, good luck with your plan, hope you don't have any problems with it and I will be looking forwards to see some of your work!:wink:

Cheers
George
 
Hi Pen_Turner,

I can most certainly understand your enthusiasm and interest for the casting "madness" and self satisfaction or disappointment as a result but, there is ONE thing that I haven't notice you or anyone mention about the casting process there is, how you are going to react with the toxic fumes and smells of the resins...!:eek:

I certainly got caught by surprise when recently spend over $400 setting up myself for casting, particularly, "worthless wood" which I produce tons of it with my all blanks size cutting, selling and using, then my first cast happened and the "surprise" started when I open the tin of resin (PR) and start mixing things, then the problem (humongous headache) become a lot worse when I open the pressure pot to get the molds out the next day. It did affect me that much that I couldn't get within 15 meters from my shed, until I got the molds out of there and took them to the end of the back yard, for at least a week before I got the cast out of the molds.

I had 2 different types of PR resin to experiment, the first one was a quality casting resin (as they call it) and the second one was a crystal clear resin which and for reasons unknown, using the same 2% hardener as I did with the previous mix, the smell became unbearable as soon as I start mixing the hardener on it, I notice that the cups that I was supplied to mix the stuff with got melted through pretty fast, making a big mess while I was trying to pour what I could save into the molds.

Well, talking about strong fumes and smell...! that mix nearly knock my socks off, my shed is not enclosed but my eyes were burning too much to see what I was doing and my head felt that it was going to blow off my shoulders with pain. Breading...? what breading...? I was outside (open back yard) for a good 10 minutes before I could get a decent breath of air into my lungs.

That resin mix took about 2 weeks before it was hard enough to get off the molds and before I could trim them on the bandsaw. I used a chemical mask I had for spray painting to handle the second batch of blanks from the moment I got them off the pot, including the bandsaw trimming.

Since I manage to get Eugene (ElMonstro) to use some of my timbers in his Mutts, which he is doing a great job with them but I produce far more good timber for these type of worthless blanks than I would like so, I have plenty for sale and I have a mate that has offered to do all the resin mixing and handling at his place (same town). He worked for 20 years in a fiberglass factory so, he is very much "immune" to the smells but he has the right gear at home to work with fiberglass so I just tell him what I want done and he does it for me. The blanks stay in his place for 3 weeks after they come out of the molds, for drying, curing and losing most of the smell. This works alright as by the time I get them, there is almost no smell on them and I use the mask to quickly trim and sometimes cut the square corners on the bandsaw. After the resins are properly cured, I don't seem to have any reaction handling these blanks!:biggrin:

Anyway, the moral of the story is...think about the possibility that the resins can affect you and that you will require some safety equipment that can add a considerable cost to the exercise!

Apart from that, good luck with your plan, hope you don't have any problems with it and I will be looking forwards to see some of your work!:wink:

Cheers
George
WOW thats crazy, I guess I'll have to figure something out. I'll be careful.
 
Use Alumilite. No smell at all.

Just remember that when you finally get "that perfect color" you need to double the density of your ingredients because you will end up mixing in equal parts of the other half of the resin.

GK

WOW thats crazy, I guess I'll have to figure something out. I'll be careful.
 
My good friend JayFox uses alumilite and he casts at his kitchen table with no pressure/vacuum unless it is a complex mix. Then it is pressure only. Beautiful blanks.

What we use: alumilite, pearlex powders, alumilite opaque dyes, Transtint transparent dyes. Best blanks are usually a minimum of 3 colors poured to swirl.

For instance this one is two mixes per color, so 4 pours.
attachment.jpg

We waited until the green started solidifying then poured in the yellow and "swirled" but since the green was already thick it just shoved around in blocks.

And this one is 3 colors just poured and swirled as fast as we could.
attachment.jpg


GK
 

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