what glue to use?

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Holz Mechaniker

Holz Mechaniker

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So I want to bring pieces of acrylic together from left over cut offs. Can I use good old Testors plastic model glue. or should I get the plastic weld epoxy. or is there one that I have yet to discover.
 
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i actually use medium which gives me a little time to locate and clamp for a good tight fit and to ensure any needed special alignment. then hit the seams with accelerant and let cure for 24 hours.
 
I think you'll find that there are as many answers as there are members here.
The point is, is that ALL glues 'stick' as they are supposed to. The issues come afterward when individual people cut and grind and turn with a myriad of tools.
Joe's style of turning and choice of tool may not suit one type of glue but could be ideal for John, if you know what I mean.

I use CA for absolutely everything. If you browse my album, you can be sure that every single segment or finish ( if applicable ) was done with CA.

I buy thin CA and it gets thicker ( and slower ) as it ages.
I use the old stuff where I need a little more time. :biggrin:
Mmmm, I seem to be using that more lately!!!:wink:
 
Testor's model glue is actually a solvent, not a glue. It softens the styrene in which it comes in contact and welds them together as the solvent evaporates. Glue mechanically bonds itself to the pieces being glued, and hence to each other. If you wanted to weld the bits together (versus gluing them), then you would have to find the appropriate solvent for your specific material.
 
pianomanpj said:
Testor's model glue is actually a solvent, not a glue. It softens the styrene in which it comes in contact and welds them together as the solvent evaporates. Glue mechanically bonds itself to the pieces being glued, and hence to each other. If you wanted to weld the bits together (versus gluing them), then you would have to find the appropriate solvent for your specific material.
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Well, as they say on Mythbusters, only difference between science and messing around is writing it down. Might have to continue this in the wants deals and trades section...
 
OOPS said:
This might be the stuff you want to use. I haven't personally used it, but I saved this site when other IAP members were discussing this issue some time back. Here's the link:

Delvie's Plastics Inc.: Acrylic Cement
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I have used the Weld-On #3 and applicator bottle from them. It was nice because I could hold the parts in place and then let the glue wick into the joint. It was easier than trying to line things up with the glue already on them. It made a really strong bond on the acrylic sheets I glued together.
 
You question made me curious. And since I own a sign shop and we work with acrylics all day I tested it out to see. The solvent basically welded the two scraps together as one piece. I tried to get them apart with a hammer and chisel and it isn't coming apart. Make sure both surfaces your going to use the solvent on are perfectly flat. The solvent is water thin so will wick into the joint but if its not flat it wont weld it. Even the roughness of table saw cuts must be removed.
 

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Monty said:
Holz Mechaniker said:
Why not Testors model glue then, I have had CA and regular 15min epoxy break at the glue joint. or for that matter plastic weld Epoxy
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Well give it a try and see, but I'd wager it will fail also.
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Monty, it did fail after a couple of days... However when I left it alone for about a week or so.. Couldn't break it with a hammer.. Yet I wouldn't recommend Testor's model glue even then.
 
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