What exactly is White Diamond?

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PMisiaszek

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At a WW show recently, a penmaker doing a demonstration said that the only "finish" he puts on antler is white diamond. I was under the impression that white diamond was a very mild abrasive that was used as a final step after MM, (or Tripoli,) but before wax or some other finish depending on the blank. Am I correct, or is there a wax or other substance in White Diamond that can serve asa a finish... say on the antler cigar I'm finishing up.
 
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I would say you are correct in your thinking. White diamond is a buffing compound, not a finish. It is interesting what I've heard others call a finish. Lacquer, CA, varnish, various oils, shellac, paint, powdercoat, various friction polishes, enduro, various woodturner finishes, other like kind solutions <s>and waxes</s> are finishes. Actually, I would not classify waxes as finishes, but protectants. I'm sure others will add their thoughts and even disagree with me.

I'm looking forward to others thoughts.

Do a good turn daily!
Don
Originally posted by PMisiaszek
<br />At a WW show recently, a penmaker doing a demonstration said that the only "finish" he puts on antler is white diamond. I was under the impression that white diamond was a very mild abrasive that was used as a final step after MM, (or Tripoli,) but before wax or some other finish depending on the blank. Am I correct, or is there a wax or other substance in White Diamond that can serve asa a finish... say on the antler cigar I'm finishing up.
 
I always think of a "finish" as a substance placed on the wood to help seal and protect the wood, and sometimes to give it a different appearance (e.g., glossy versus mat or natural). Using this definition, waxes may be a finish, but I'm not sure how much they actually protect; they beautify by filling in small scratches, thereby providing a more even surface, and I guess they provide some modicum of protection for the wood, but I typically think of a finish as something more durable. My understanding is that white diamond is a buffing compound that helps achieve a smoother underlying surface, much like any other abrasive substance. White diamond's abrasives are embedded in a waxy substance, and that substance may provide a "finish" similar to that of wax. I don't do any buffing, so I'm not sure.
 
Buffing compounds are abrasive regardless of the "grit".
White diamond is less aggressive than Tripoli and more aggressive than jewelers rouge.The are other compounds that are less aggressive than red rouge.
When working with antler due to its light color a white diamond compound would be more desirable due to the fact any type of residue would not show up.
All that being said.
In the scrimshaw techniques used for centuries, sailors would use the salt embedded sail cloth to polish the material they were going to "etch" their design in.
Scrimshaw is a "negative image process"
The highly polished piece is totally covered with India ink.Once the ink has dried on the polished surface the scrimshander etches the surface leaving the underlying non stained surface show up white as in the case of ivory or bone.The entire piece is etched with the design.Once this is complete the entire area is washed off and reinked.
The ink will be absorbed into the etched areas, the polished ares remain white.
This was all done without buffing compounds.
If the surface is highly polished to the point that nothing will penetrate the surface you can use any compound to "make it shine"
White diamond is a relatively abrasive compound.Jewelers rough would be a better choice provided it is sealed and no pits or rough spots.
The down side is the rouge is red and if you didn't do a good job up to that point you will have a mess.
For Antler I use DICO plastic compound.It is a light blue in color and will not stain most horn.
The shine from the white diamond I am guess is from the polishing effect in conjunction with the wax that carries the abrasive. This wax is not long lasting in the use with a pen.
This is an example of a piece I have used it on.
ANtler buffed with Dico plastic buffing compound
 
I recently changed my buffing compounds to Blue & Hi Luster for my final buffs and have noticed a difference.
Small, but a difference. This link shows the grits of the colored bars.
http://pipemakers.org/finishing_products.html

I would not call any buffing compound a finish. But I could see the demonstator saying, this is all I finish my antler with is white diamond buffing, because that is how I finish my anlter. Finish as in final step, done.
 
One more suggestion.
There have been numerous thread on Buffing. I just searched the archives usng the words
Buffing
Buffing compound
White diamond
and combinations of all.
Make sure you refine the search to archived posts.
Russ Fairfield has posted on some of the threads.
 
I would also suggest, if looking for that beyond-reality gloss on something white like antler or alternative ivory, the final polishing compoud to be 3M's "Finesse-It II". I have found it to be a good bit finer than 12,000 Micromesh. I use it on all my acrylics if I want a nutty shine on it (most all of them) and I finish off with some Mother's Carnauba or I just burn on some carnauba from a solid block I have- and buff it as if it were a friction polish, depending on my mood.
 
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