Wet Dry sandpaper or Micromesh

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spanky239

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Jan 17, 2011
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Maui, Hawaii
Which is better wet dry sandpaper or micomesh? Which one works better? Right now I use wet dry sandpaper up to 2000 grit on a CA finish, then I polish.

Aloha & Mahalo

Stacey
 
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After applying the CA, I use Norton sandpaper from 320-400 (whichever is required depending) then go micro mesh through all the stages, then brasso. Works for me.
 
I tried something new and like the results. Made an acrylic razor handle with several rounded shapes ( beads?) and sanded with 400 grit. Then I went straight to Kit car polish, used several times and rather aggressively. The results really surprised me - it looked like it had been micro meshed. Talk about saving some steps!!
 
I've tried that and yes it shines bit ultimately the scrathes underneath the shine seem to collect "gunK" and dull up.
 
Which is better wet dry sandpaper or micomesh? Which one works better? Right now I use wet dry sandpaper up to 2000 grit on a CA finish, then I polish.

Aloha & Mahalo

Stacey

I know you didn't mention it but another viable alternative is Abranet (or Abralon, basically the same thing). In the past year and a half, I have used nothing but Abranet on my pens from start to finish and am hooked on the results. The Abranet is a "clog free" mesh which seems to last forever and can be used either wet or dry, I choose dry.

One of my peeves about sanding is to be using 800 grit for example and have the paper load up on you creating "120 grit globs" which of course means you are now sanding with 120 grit all over again! With Abranet, this does not happen. :smile:
 
I prefer micromesh (wet) on acrylics. On stainless steel blanks I use the wet/dry sandpaper. On wood I use regular cloth backed sandpaper up to 400, then sometimes abranet. Most times just sand to 400, then EEE, then polish.
 
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