wet boxelder

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elody21

Member
Joined
Dec 30, 2004
Messages
1,596
Last month we lost a huge limb off of our boxelder tree. I cut one of the highly colored log pieces into 1/4 log sections. I decided to wet turn a vessel out of one piece and got a big suprise. There is a large hole and most of the center of the piece is rotted out. Oddly the rotten part is mostly on the inside and the good wood on the out side. It is beautiful wood and I would love to salvage this piece. Does anyone know of something that would stabilize and fill the void on wet wood. If the wood was dry this piece would be perfect for a fill of acrylic. It is only 3-4 weeks off the tree so it is very wet.
Do I toss it or try to save it? I doubt it would dry without really cracking.
Any ideas?
Alice
 
Alice,

If you were in Australia, I would tell you to get a 1lt can of Fungishield (wood stabilizer) and soak the wood with it, then put it to dry in a dark and well ventilated place. Any repairs/fillings could be then done without any problems...!

Knowing that you don't have this product, and unless you can find one that has identical characteristics, over there, one of the easiest ways to try to stabilize the wood, until it dries enough for the repairs/fillings, is to submerse it in soap water for a few days. The same dishwasher detergent you use is good and cold water in a container big enough to accommodate the bowl fully submersed.

Another method is to boil it by, submerse it in hot/boiling water for a couple of hours...!

Also, depending of the bowl's size, you could microwave it with "bursts" of maximum of 1 minute at the time with the wood cooling down in between bursts. Weighing the bowl before putting it in the microwave, is the best way to find out when is dry, as the wood will stop loosing weight, then it does...!

From this point, you can fill/repair the wood and completely finish the bowl, as the wood is now dry...!

Good luck...!

PS: Remember that with green/wet wood turning, and unless you want to take the wood to the final dimensions to allow the wood natural behavior (with most woods) of "setting"/drying out of shape, green/rough turning, as they call it, you need to leave about 1" of wood thickness all over the piece, this will give a little extra support to the wood while drying and also, a safe thickness (in most cases) to allow you to re-mount the piece and turn it to final shape, removing all the out of shape bits...!

Cheers
George
 
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I've worked with alot of Box Elder and most that I find is rotten or soft in the middle but I've not had a problem with it checking or cracking. I've cut pieces up and threw it in the microwave and dried them out well. I've also threw some on a shelf and they have yet to crack. Just keep it away from alot of light. It will fade the red out to a brown color.
 
Thanks guys. I just got back to the site. For the time being I filled the void with wet shavings and packed it in a box with more wet shavings until I get the time to mess with it. I know I need to do something soon.
FyI with boxelder I usually touch up the natural red with a watered down raspberry dye.
You need to put the dye on like water colors so it stays natural looking. It w\looks very well and will stay the color we like! I learned this from a world famous turner who's name I cannot say!
Anyway I sure hope I can get this dry enough to use resin. I think a red ish resin in the void would look great.
Alice
 
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