Russianwolf
Member
Copied over from another thread.
The 207 is the "special Clear Hardener"
Been using it for about a year in my clear castings.
Pros
1)Longer open time. So more time for bubbles to rise or be reabsorbed. Easily 20 minutes.
2)No/Low odor. I've had no issues using it in the basement, unlike PR.
3)Less Chemically reactive. The "solvents" in PR will melt some materials (one of the big reasons I switched).
4)less finicky to mix (especially if you use the pumps). No guessing with drops, no problems on small pours.
5)lower heat while curing. another issue with some materials.
6)longer shelf life. I have a half gallon brick of PR (still in can) if anyone is interested.
7)not flammable. You can actually use a lighter to pop surface bubbles (Don't try that with PR)
Cons
1)Cost. It is more expensive. About $150 for 1.3-1.4 gallons, The 5 gallon set knocks it down to about $100per. Worth it as my failure are way down.
Turning wise, Its on par with the others. Less chippy for me than PR, maybe not quite as nice as Alum. Polishes great unlike some of the Alum mixtures.
The first Dichroics I did used PR, but when I started working on the Prism FX the PR distroyed it. Same for the Opal FX, the PR would melt the material chemically. So all of the Opal FX (if you've turned one of them) and the new Prism FX, and any of the newer Dichroic blanks are all West Systems 105/207.
As far as dying, I have only started to play with that. Some things that work fro PR don't for the Epoxy. They have more time to settle so if it has weight it may not work. Dyes do work, pearlex powders work. Oil paints, yep. Acrylics, not so much. I'll have to go back and look at my test pieces.
The 207 is the "special Clear Hardener"
Been using it for about a year in my clear castings.
Pros
1)Longer open time. So more time for bubbles to rise or be reabsorbed. Easily 20 minutes.
2)No/Low odor. I've had no issues using it in the basement, unlike PR.
3)Less Chemically reactive. The "solvents" in PR will melt some materials (one of the big reasons I switched).
4)less finicky to mix (especially if you use the pumps). No guessing with drops, no problems on small pours.
5)lower heat while curing. another issue with some materials.
6)longer shelf life. I have a half gallon brick of PR (still in can) if anyone is interested.
7)not flammable. You can actually use a lighter to pop surface bubbles (Don't try that with PR)
Cons
1)Cost. It is more expensive. About $150 for 1.3-1.4 gallons, The 5 gallon set knocks it down to about $100per. Worth it as my failure are way down.
Turning wise, Its on par with the others. Less chippy for me than PR, maybe not quite as nice as Alum. Polishes great unlike some of the Alum mixtures.
The first Dichroics I did used PR, but when I started working on the Prism FX the PR distroyed it. Same for the Opal FX, the PR would melt the material chemically. So all of the Opal FX (if you've turned one of them) and the new Prism FX, and any of the newer Dichroic blanks are all West Systems 105/207.
As far as dying, I have only started to play with that. Some things that work fro PR don't for the Epoxy. They have more time to settle so if it has weight it may not work. Dyes do work, pearlex powders work. Oil paints, yep. Acrylics, not so much. I'll have to go back and look at my test pieces.
