West System Epoxy

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MrKugelschreiber

MrKugelschreiber

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Anyone have info on this West System epoxy? I'm ready to start casting and have been given great info on Alumilite from an awesome source. For what I'm looking to start doing Alumilite may not be best. I interested in stamp blanks, cigar band blanks and photo blanks using Avery labels, & decals.

Any info on west system is appreciated. Which combo to buy, will it work on what I'm trying to do, etc?

I have also been given great advice on Silmar 41. Thank you to those whom have been so gracious to educate me. This is my last stop before deciding which to try.


Thanks in advance
 
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Head over to west marine. You want the base resin and 207 hardener. It's more durable than pr with out the brittle rating it has. If you drop a pr blank on the ground it will fracture and crack ... ask me how I know this. It happened to me. With epoxy it will bounce with ph out cracking, the under material may crack however.
 
Since this started with a question about West Systems I'll throw this in unless it will stir up trouble. I use and love the W.S. Epoxy. My problem is the hardener yellows really fast. Am I getting old resin off the shelf or should I be doing something different at home? At first I stored it in the original can indoors then I put it in a plastic bottle hoping it would cut down on the amount of air introduced in the can when I used it. I was told that moisture will cause it to yellow. Like I said it's stored and used inside so the temp. is the same. Thanks
 
I havent had that issue

Kenny Durrant said:
Since this started with a question about West Systems I'll throw this in unless it will stir up trouble. I use and love the W.S. Epoxy. My problem is the hardener yellows really fast. Am I getting old resin off the shelf or should I be doing something different at home? At first I stored it in the original can indoors then I put it in a plastic bottle hoping it would cut down on the amount of air introduced in the can when I used it. I was told that moisture will cause it to yellow. Like I said it's stored and used inside so the temp. is the same. Thanks
Click to expand...

I haven't had any issues with West systems epoxy yellowing .
I have several pool cues with a west system epoxy on them for over a decade
 
MrKugelschreiber said:
Anyone have info on this West System epoxy? I'm ready to start casting and have been given great info on Alumilite from an awesome source. For what I'm looking to start doing Alumilite may not be best. I interested in stamp blanks, cigar band blanks and photo blanks using Avery labels, & decals.

Any info on west system is appreciated. Which combo to buy, will it work on what I'm trying to do, etc?

I have also been given great advice on Silmar 41. Thank you to those whom have been so gracious to educate me. This is my last stop before deciding which to try.


Thanks in advance
Click to expand...

West systems epoxy is pretty thick ..... keeping the bubbles out could be a issue .
Better make sure the epoxy is warm ....
 
I haven't had it yellow after it's mixed and cast. It's yellowing in the can. As far as the other questions the reason I started using it was It doesn't shrink or chip as bad as P.R. I've been able to do cast that I wouldn't want to try with the P.R. It is for the most part comparable to Alumilite but the set time is longer so you have more time to look and adjust if necessary. It is more expensive so instead of .25 cents to .50 cents it costs about $3. Mostly I only cast for myself so the cost is no big deal for me.
 
No yellowing for me yet

I have been curious about the glue lines in segmenting, so I made these several weeks ago.

The clear cast is West Systems 105 and 206. The marine store by me did not have 207, so I did order it online as I would like a very clear glue line.

These are about 2 weeks old, and I have not done a 105 and 207 test. After the 105/206 dried, I question if the 207 will be much better as this is very clear, with no tint.

While I cannot cay that the 105 and 206 are an "optically clear" cast... I can very clearly read through the top to bottom; from the side the image is distorted I assume due to the curve of the cup. NO BUBBLES also - just mixed and sat on the bench since then.

The yellow cast is my typical brass tube/blank 5 minute epoxy - tons of bubbles, but has served me well.
 

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Kenny Durrant said:
Since this started with a question about West Systems I'll throw this in unless it will stir up trouble. I use and love the W.S. Epoxy. My problem is the hardener yellows really fast. Am I getting old resin off the shelf or should I be doing something different at home? At first I stored it in the original can indoors then I put it in a plastic bottle hoping it would cut down on the amount of air introduced in the can when I used it. I was told that moisture will cause it to yellow. Like I said it's stored and used inside so the temp. is the same. Thanks
Click to expand...

There is more than one hardner with west marine epoxy. Which one are you using?
 
mark james said:
I have been curious about the glue lines in segmenting, so I made these several weeks ago.

The clear cast is West Systems 105 and 206. The marine store by me did not have 207, so I did order it online as I would like a very clear glue line.

These are about 2 weeks old, and I have not done a 105 and 207 test. After the 105/206 dried, I question if the 207 will be much better as this is very clear, with no tint.

While I cannot cay that the 105 and 206 are an "optically clear" cast... I can very clearly read through the top to bottom; from the side the image is distorted I assume due to the curve of the cup. NO BUBBLES also - just mixed and sat on the bench since then.

The yellow cast is my typical brass tube/blank 5 minute epoxy - tons of bubbles, but has served me well.
Click to expand...

Mark, thanks for doing this little demo...I have the 105/207 materials, and do limited casting. I hope it does not go bad while still in the can. A SLIGHT coloration, although not preferred, is tolerable, except for white backgrounds. If large amounts do go bad beyond use, that will really drive up the per-blank cost. :eek:
 
Westnsystems

mark james said:
I have been curious about the glue lines in segmenting, so I made these several weeks ago.

The clear cast is West Systems 105 and 206. The marine store by me did not have 207, so I did order it online as I would like a very clear glue line.

These are about 2 weeks old, and I have not done a 105 and 207 test. After the 105/206 dried, I question if the 207 will be much better as this is very clear, with no tint.

While I cannot cay that the 105 and 206 are an "optically clear" cast... I can very clearly read through the top to bottom; from the side the image is distorted I assume due to the curve of the cup. NO BUBBLES also - just mixed and sat on the bench since then.

The yellow cast is my typical brass tube/blank 5 minute epoxy - tons of bubbles, but has served me well.
Click to expand...

west systems 105/206 is for bonding .....and can be tinted .
west system 105/207 if for the finish and it to can be tinted or dyed
Indian ink works too .

Don't mix ...........with a stick .

105/207
I made two rice heat socks.
I put rice in socks and stick them in the mirco wave for 3 to 5 minutes .
Then wrap the socks with rice around the cans of the epoxy to warm the epoxy up.

Don't ever shake the cans
Measure out the heated epoxy into a zip lock baggie and message the epoxy in the bag without creating bubbles.
Then cut the corner of the zip lock baggie .

if the epoxy dips it creates bubbles ..

Epoxy on pen blanks I use a clean eye liner brush to smooth the epoxy out with my lathe at 35 rpms .
I use the brush also to wipe off excess epoxy from the pen blank or really in my case pool cues ..

I like using CA on my billet rings .
But if I use epoxy I wrap the billet with the medical rubber hose they wrap around your arm in a hospital to pull blood .
 
If you are interested in using epoxy casting resin, try Easy Cast Clear Casting Resin. Walmart.com sells a 1 gallon kit for $86.49 + $2 for shipping. You may need to use a pressure pot to insure a bubble free blank.
 
I use the 207 hardener. I've never had a problem with the resin. The stuff is great except for the yellowing after about 4 months. Like I said earlier most of what I do is for myself so I don't use much of it. There's another thread that said "It doesn't hurt to ask" which I will agree with. I called the manufacturer, not the dealer, for the second time to ask about the problem. They said they didn't know but they are sending me another can free and want me to send the old hardener back so they can try to find the problem. 99% of the factory people I talk to are more than happy to talk about what and how I'm doing things to have better results with their product.
 
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