Weekend work

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Here is what I have been working on this weekend so far. These are 2 cap sections for 2 pens. One is blood wood and the other is purple heart. I have not drilled them yet but thought you might like to see what they look like before I turn them. I will post the end results after I turn them if they hold together that long. There is a lot of aluminum in these blanks and small parts. They each have multiple scalloped segments in them a total of 4 full sets of scallops in each barrel..

1_NewPenBlank1.JPG
 
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They'd better stay together!:laugh: I can't wait to see how they look after they are turned! I wonder if you'll still be able to see the "stars".
 
I don't think the stars will be there what I am expecting is 2 sets of scallops that are intertwined in the center. So you should see the points coming out of a somewhat round piece. Then scallops on each end. Now that is what I am expecting but I am not sure that all is cut right or not. There is a lot going on in these blanks and holding them together may be very tricky. Will have to wait and see.
 
I am using UFO by Hot Stuff Ordorless CA to hold things together with. I have my drills all sharpened and the skew all sharpened and am ready for tomorrow after things set up real well. I should be able to try to get the tubes in tomorrow morning and then turn tomorrow afternoon if I have time.
 
That's amazing and I can't wait to see the results.

I am also embarrassed to admit I have no idea how you did that from looking at the picture. lol

I might as well be trying to decipher ancient alien text.
 
A couple things come to mind with a complex blank such as that. When drilling to me I would reinforce the blank with some wood glued to the sides. All 4 sides. The same width as the sides. This will add the strength for drilling.

But before that if you ever do a complex piece like that and want to see what will get turned off. Just make a flat clear plastic piece and draw lines down the center the exact thickness the blank will end up. This is also a good method to use when cutting that fancy burled blank. You can layout the pen skeleton on top of the most figured part of the wood. Cut your blank out leaving the dull pieces or sections behind.

Good luck with the blank.
 
A couple things come to mind with a complex blank such as that. When drilling to me I would reinforce the blank with some wood glued to the sides. All 4 sides. The same width as the sides. This will add the strength for drilling.

But before that if you ever do a complex piece like that and want to see what will get turned off. Just make a flat clear plastic piece and draw lines down the center the exact thickness the blank will end up. This is also a good method to use when cutting that fancy burled blank. You can layout the pen skeleton on top of the most figured part of the wood. Cut your blank out leaving the dull pieces or sections behind.

Good luck with the blank.

I've read the second paragraph a dozen times now and I'm stumped. I can't picture it (which is normal for me as I have trouble forming mental pictures).
 
It took me a few times through too but I knew it was worth the effort because John has lots of cool tricks like this I am sure learned from experience and the experience of many other really talented segmenters. What he is saying to do is to put an outline of your tube plus the thickness of the blank onto the plexiglass and lay it over the blank to get an idea about what is going to be left after the turning. It is excellent advise.

I have one of the blanks drilled and tubes in. I will turn it in a few hours if I can wait that long...
 
Yeah. Now that it's daytime and I read that and yours it makes sense. He does have some great tips. So many on here do. Sometimes they are quite over my head but only because I can't picture it. Wish I had known this one long ago. Would have made some dull blanks get saved by segmenting (not by me at that time but still saved).

Looking forward to the final blank.
 
Sorry about that guys:redface:. Mike glad you were my interpreter. That is exactly what I meant. It works great. I should have included a photo but too much of a hurry.
 
Sorry about that guys:redface:. Mike glad you were my interpreter. That is exactly what I meant. It works great. I should have included a photo but too much of a hurry.

No worried John. It's been a log couple of days for me and the brain is kind of fried from putting out fires (not real ones but Marine ones). I re read yours and it makes sense but Mikes extra help really shows how awesome of an idea you told us.

Good thing I have map pens for my plastic so I can wipe it off when I need to and not just from use.
 
You have jumped in and helped me many times John. I am always happy when you do that also. We have to help each other nobody can do everything and I am no exception.
 
Now that I have that last post done. Here is what I have been waiting for 2 days to turn. One of the blanks really exploded. I could not even find all the parts so I am down to only one. That one didn't have a single failure. Go figure the one that blew apart had 4 failures ouch. I don't think I have ever had that many.

Ok so there is in my opinion way too much going on in this blank. Things didn't align the way I would have wanted them to either. The finished product doesn't look nearly as good as the unturned blank in my opinion. It was a huge let down for the amount of time I have invested in it especially when you figure out the 50% return on outcome. Anyway here is the image.

Hardware: Jr. Gent 2 Black Titanium
Wood: Purple Heart

1_oneuponedown.jpg
 
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Mike, that sure is disappointing. I just had one explode when I was mounting it to the lathe...

I kind of agree that it is a little busy but I still think the process and the skill involved is amazing. Looking at it it kind of reminds me of a spider web. Not sure if it would actually look better with a very dark wood blank but I think that would be the case.

Anyways that is too bad it didn't work.
 
Mike,

The exploded blank would be a great marketing tool for this pen....package and advertise them both together to show how much work is involved...and what can and does happen.
 
I like it Mike! I wonder about using different colored woods in your scallops as to get a mosaic or stained glass look. Also, I've had good luck with flexible CA when using metal and wood. Just a thought ... Always a pleasure to see what your up to. Good luck with the next one.
 
I like the idea but it would not be an easy task. You would have to make several at once and they would need to be just alike and of different colors. Then you would make the cuts and mix and match them it would not be an easy task at all. This one was not easy to make and I am not sure I will do any more like it.

Mike

I like it Mike! I wonder about using different colored woods in your scallops as to get a mosaic or stained glass look. Also, I've had good luck with flexible CA when using metal and wood. Just a thought ... Always a pleasure to see what your up to. Good luck with the next one.
 
Looks like a lot of work. What survived looks good to me. On the advise of a boat repair guy, I use T88 epoxy for segmented glue ups. I don't have near as many cuts as you. But it may be worth reading to see if it sounds good to you. I have had no problems with T88 after letting it cure overnight. It just might help you protect hours and hours of work. Mike
 
The design is inspired and the finished product looks great. The idea of different woods to create the mosaic, or stainded glass effect is a lot of work. Just look at the Kallenshaan puzzle blank with 27 different woods and 36 peices. Ken has to make 36 different pens out of 27 different woods, lazer cut them, then number the individual peices, then start putting together the 36 pens making sure he has the 27 different woods represented in each pen. Then we get to assemble.

To try that approach on one of Mike's great segments would be be similar, except that the segmenting process would entail some mind bending thought on the front end. Mike could do it, but that first pen would likely take months, years, maybe even decades. Better get started --- just kidding.
 
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