Wax or Oil Before CA on a wooden pen?

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Redcoat

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I tried to search for this and didn't see anything, so it's either something that is such common knowledge that nobody else has had to ask or so dumb that it's obvious to everyone else 😂 But I figured I'd ask before wasting time, effort and money.

I'm still brand new at this hobby only 7 pens deep at this point, but damn am I loving it. My question is this; with wooden pens, can a wax, oil or other finish for the wood be applied before the CA finish? Would it even help?

I've noticed the wood does liven up under the CA, so it might be unnecessary and I can guess the wax/oil might interfere with the CA or pull it out of the wood and get cloudy, I don't know so I'm asking :)

Thanks for any and all help.
(Attached my most recent 2 because even though there are still some flaws in technique/execution, I'm still proud of them :D)
 

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I have seen videos and comments from pen turners that used boiled linseed oil to darken or bring out the character of their wood before applying a CA finish. I think wax would be detrimental to the adhesion of CA though. I have never combined the two myself though, so I can not offer any direct experience. You should be proud of your pens. It's a skill that is learned and all of us went through the learning curve. Thanks for sharing them. - Dave
 
I use boiled linseed oil with CA glue as a pen finish. I put both on my applicator next to each other. I apply the CA glue first immediately followed by the boiled linseed oil on top. Continue moving the applicator until the finish is cured. Move on to the next layer applying as many as "needed".
 
I tried to search for this and didn't see anything, so it's either something that is such common knowledge that nobody else has had to ask or so dumb that it's obvious to everyone else 😂 But I figured I'd ask before wasting time, effort and money.

I'm still brand new at this hobby only 7 pens deep at this point, but damn am I loving it. My question is this; with wooden pens, can a wax, oil or other finish for the wood be applied before the CA finish? Would it even help?

I've noticed the wood does liven up under the CA, so it might be unnecessary and I can guess the wax/oil might interfere with the CA or pull it out of the wood and get cloudy, I don't know so I'm asking :)

Thanks for any and all help.
(Attached my most recent 2 because even though there are still some flaws in technique/execution, I'm still proud of them :D)
I've been using tung oil before CA to enhance the grain. Sometimes I use a dash of tung oil while applying the CA as well.
 
I've been using tung oil before CA to enhance the grain. Sometimes I use a dash of tung oil while applying the CA as well.
That's pretty much what I do - sand to 400, burnish with shavings, ting oil for grain enhancement, then CA or friction polish. I use friction polish more often than CA & usually apply a coat of carnauba wax over that.
 
While the suggestions above are very good, one thing to watch for in the future is whether to do this on all woods or not. Oils and waxes enhance wood and wood grain, but on some woods, it can distract. The beauty of while holly wood turns to an ivory color with some oils. That is OK if that is what you want, but it is distracting if you want the whiteness. Same for some other woods such as purple woods or bright red woods,- the hue or tone changes, some for good, some not so good. Test the woods before finishing.

Since you are just starting, this is something to be considered further down the road. Also, very good white/daylight or 5000K LED lights over the lathe help to notice the minuscule changes, which affect the color you see when outside in real daylight.
 
It's common practice ,on oily woods, to wipe down with acetone before applying a CA finish, so the CA won't pull away from the wood, especially on the ends. That's why I can't get my head around why you'd intentionally add oils to the process. I don't do it and I don't see the reason or purpose.
 
Some oils will dry, or cure, after application. Others tend to stay "Oily" and tend to not cure. Some respond to heat to encourage them to cure. Egnald addressed a few aspects of this in a current thread. Oily woods typically are wiped with a solvent to remove the oil from the surface prior to applying a finish such as CA. So these are just a few of the variables to consider. Variations might include using an oil to help bring out the figure or enhance the natural color, but then wipe with a solvent to decrease oiliness prior to application of a surface coat finish.

As with many search attempts, it may prove helpful to try different key words to find the answers to specific questions or to learn specific techniques. It is likely that you will be able to find answers for particular finishing procedures if you keep at it.
 
It's common practice ,on oily woods, to wipe down with acetone before applying a CA finish, so the CA won't pull away from the wood, especially on the ends. That's why I can't get my head around why you'd intentionally add oils to the process. I don't do it and I don't see the reason or purpose.
The is alot chemistry involved, but with certain oils mixed with CA create a cross polymer link and actually strengthen the ca bond.
Supposedly there is a 100+page paper written by a organic chemist which explains everything, but I've never been able to locate it ( as I don't know the chemist or name of the paper - I think it is something like "The effects of oil on cross polymer chain structures in the presence of cyanoacrylate". - it may be a research or doctoral thesis, which is why it is difficult to find. I think it was published some in the 1990s or early 2000s.


The oils in oily woods,such as rosewood or lignum vitae are different than the oils we would use in conjunction with CA.
 
I use boiled linseed oil with CA glue as a pen finish. I put both on my applicator next to each other. I apply the CA glue first immediately followed by the boiled linseed oil on top. Continue moving the applicator until the finish is cured. Move on to the next layer applying as many as "needed".
Yes. I do the same with very good results.
 
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