Using an arbor press for a pen press . . . .

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sdemars

sdemars

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Joined
May 17, 2008
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318
Location
Louisiana, USA.
I recently received my arbor press from ENCO. Would appreciate any suggestions are pictures as to how it should be used, setup or customized to make it work properly for pen assembly.

How large of a space between the "base" platform and the top do I need for clearence? How long of a stroke is required?

Do I need a wooden platform at the bottom & does the top piece that "moves downward/presses" need to be flat or does it need a cone shaped recess. I have never assembled a pen so I am not sure . . .

Still gathering necessary tools and supplies . . .We have not started turning pens yet so have no idea what to expect.

I have placed an order with Paul for one of his vises. Will make do until it arrives with pre-drilled blanks most likely.

Also any suggestions for contents of initial order to get started would be also appreciated . . . . i.e . . . vendor & / or what to order . . .
 
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Hi Sdemers (no name listed on your profile)

Initial order eh? Try a couple of slimlines - they're quite easy...Sierra's the easiest pen to assemble, in my opinion...

On my arbor press, I glued a piece of corian to the bar that 'presses' downward to prevent scratches...I used a piece of wood between the pen kit and the metal before I had any corian to cut up...

I also use a piece of corian on the bottom, but hardwood would likely work for both of these as well...

To use, I just align the pen blank tube with the hardware, move the bar down to just touching, and press it on...

Pretty simple - might be hard to visualize now, but once you try it, it's easy!

Good luck!

Andrew
 

I have placed an order with Paul for one of his vises. Will make do until it arrives with pre-drilled blanks most likely.
Click to expand...


I don't know where you are getting pre-drilled blanks, have not seen a lot of them avail. But, for my money, since you are probably talking about many months (I'm at month 8 or 9) waiting for Paul to get the vise done....

I would suggest you look at the General Pen blank Vise...I saw one at Woodcraft and it was pretty good looking....and it is available now.

I've started with Cigar kits and they are, at least for me, very easy to make. Not a fan myself of slims.

Good luck, Have fun

Doug
 
Here is how I use mine. I built a stand fot it to be bolted to and make it high enough that I could see what I was doing without getting on my knees:



200862104942_mini-press%20001.jpg



I have a wood piece made for the botton to set the pen part on and a block of wood glued underit for support.

I stuck a piece of self-sticking on the piece tha comes down and presses so it won't damage/scratch the pen parts. Works great for me.

200862105424_mini-press%20002.jpg
 
Paul, that was what I was looking for . . . . it seems I bought the exact same (1) ton arbor press you have . . . .
I may do the same, but add Corian as Agent Maxwell Smart has done . . . just curious, I see the bottom is wood, what material did you use for cover on the moving part of the press? I thought about rubber since I have good bit, but figured it would give too much . . .

P.S. If anyone is in need of a square foot or so of 3/8' or 1/2" thick durable rubber sheet, let me know . . . .
 
If you mean the part that presses down on the pen part, I covered it with some self-sticking material. In this case I found some Velcro patches that my wife had (I said had:D), It is the kind you can peel off the paper on the back and it will stick to things. I cut it to fit the bottom of the presser thingy. Seems to work just fine.

You can buy those felt pads that you stick on the bottom of chairs to keep them from scraping the floor. They would work even better. I cleaned the bottom of the presser thingy real well with DNA before I stock the cushion on.
 
My arbor isn't as pretty as your Paul, it's begining to show some rust from all the humidity when I was in Houston, but I did same as you.. set a block of hardwood in the "toes" of the base and glued a piece of plastic on top to give it some stability... haven't covered the plunger thingy, but like your idea and think will do same. I haven't built a base for mine either, but when I set up my shop, I set my work benches at 36 inches high so I wouldn't have to bend over any to work on them.
 
Chuck, (refer to rust) truth is mine is not over two months old and I live in the dry desert. Rust is not much of a problem except for some reason my wife's cat likes to lay on top of my table say. Her body heat/moister tends to cause my table to to rust. I've got a solution for that problem, but my wife says no....[}:)]
 
sdemars,
I use an arbor press same as yours, made a steel table bolted to the floor at eye height when I sit at my custom sit down bench. I use one of those taller swivel chairs and swivel around to press the pens.
Corian make a 1/4 inch sheet of thickness, I glued one piece to top and also to the anvil section that is turned aluminium from 50 mm round, this anvil part is through drilled and bolted exactly flat. This has been in use for years.
I found the stem that goes up and down was flat on the top, not on the bottom, so I reversed the stem to make the best use of it.
I am 6 foot two so I made the steel framed bench higher to suit me and fitted the vac system under as well, I operate it with my foot.
At the left side of my VL100 Lathe I fitted a variable speed control and took the belt drive to the rear of the lathe with a suitable cover over the pulleys and belt.This saves having the danger under the bench of pulleys and belts giving more room for feet etc.
Peter.
 
I must be too easy to please, but I use a 1-ton arbor press unmodified. One end of the pen barrel sits on the rotating base plate. The other end contacts the ram. If I'm worried about scratching a part (such as the finial), I stick one of those little plastic baggies that the parts come in between it and the ram.

Works like a champ.
 
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