Using Alumilite Question...

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JD Combs Sr

JD Combs Sr

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Joined
Jan 30, 2010
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767
Location
Owingsville, KY
Making some tube in blanks that have a photo(water slide) wrapped around the tube and casting in Alumilite Clear. Having inconstant results.

What is the best treatment of the photo as in a clear coat that will bond with the Alumilite and not turn cloudy at the photo/Alumilite bond? At this point in time so far my best results have been from using Lacquer but was wondering if anyone had found anything better?

I realize that the best results are from the use of PR but I can't stand the smell and want to stick with Alumilite.
 
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resinman said:
Have you tried ModPodge? Seal the back of photo first. Then seal the photo. Do not be in a hurry---Wait 24hrs or so before you pour.
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Thanks Gary, ModPodge was going to be my next try, been a little hesitant using it since it is water based and Alumilite doesn't like water. I figured I hand enough chance of water with the decal and didn't want to add to it. Will just have to make sure both applications are good and dry I suppose.

BTW your suggestion for sealing the "back" of the photo would be very difficult on a water-slide decal. I am using water-slide decals on white tubes, much easier to handle then trying to fold on and glue on a piece of photo paper, at least I think so.:wink:

The tube with the decal on it before casting looks perfect. I just have to come-up with an appropriate Alumilite friendly coating for the whole thing prior to casting. I was hoping that someone had already done it.:confused:
 
I'm really looking forward to the time when I'm able to do some casting (very soon). One of my todo's is to use clear resin and/or alumilite. I still have to cut my HDPE into the mold size pieces and assemble but I have a plan and am inching closer. For the time being I'm working on my vacuum stabilization chamber setup and am almost ready to begin. Best of luck to all you tinkerers out there and thanks for posting the helpful tips.
 
I would think that real shellac would work well for adhesion of paper to wood but I can imagine image bleed might be problematic for certain inks. I have a can of Zinser shellac (not sure if it's pure or a formulation of sealers). Or maybe not, what do you think?
 
Not sure why folks are making suggestions for adhesion of "paper" photos?:confused:

I am looking for a way to encapsulate "plastic decals" in the form of a photograph printed on "water-slide" decal stock.

For those that are not familiar with water-slide decals think of the last plastic model you built and the insignia decals you had to dip in "water" and "slide" the very thin film of plastic off onto your model. You can buy the thin film stock in 8.5x11 sheets and print anything you want on it.

In my case I have printed a color photo of my granddaughter in her wedding dress onto the decal paper. The photo is sized to fit around a white pen tube. I stabilized the ink by spraying the decal with lacquer, next day I dip it into water and "slide" it onto the white tube. It adheres to the tube great and looks great. Now comes the problem. After a couple of days of drying to make sure no moisture is on the tube or under the decal I cast it in clear resin. PR works without a hitch but smells terrible therefore I am trying to come up with way to use Alumilite clear.

Someone must have done this before, please help and I donot need help with paper or with adhesion of the photo to wood or to the tube. Thanks.
 
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Thanks for the clarification my friend. When I'm not familiar with something I often blurt out something about what little I do understand. I would never have suspected toy model decal material! We used to get it at Christmas time in our Revell 3in1 kits! Ah the memories... :) BTW... what a great idea this is!
 
I haven't cast water slide decals and usually just encase them on the finished pen body in a ca finish. If you've used them successfully in pr casting, I would think the same process would work with alumilite. If you haven't used them under pr resin, try a thin layer of ca over them after they've dried on the tube. Just make sure to give them a day to degas before casting, or you may get a cloudy appearance.
 
When you have had enough of the alumilite, then get an organic vapor mask (about $20 for a good one) and go back to using PR. Even if you don't go back to PR, you should get and use an organic vapor mask. Just because you can't smell alumilite doesn't mean you wouldn't be better of with a mask.

Ed
 
I have used a clear polyurethane spray (minwax). Print your decal and let dry for at least 24 hours, he follow directions on can for drying/further application times.

I have done with this and it worked well. Now if I could just get my printer settings so the decal pictures were crisp enough to use.
 
After posting my response, I started to question myself. Sorry, but I can't remember if I used polyurethane spray or clear acrylic. I don't want to give you bad info. I will check when I get back to my shop tomorrow. Sorry.
 
Oh... ModPodge! I hate that smell! My wife loves sealing things with it!

I just can't stand that smell. I like the smell of MEK! Oh, now that I have retired from the Air Force, I see that it is life threatening & so hazardous! WHIMIS, MSDS, HazMat, EPA, etc...

Michael
 
Casting allumilite with images

I've been trying to figure out exactly how to cast allumilite with an image. I recently switched to a laser jet printer and I noticed that the image is breaking apart. I cracked open the blank and found that the image smears after coming into contact with the allumilite. trying the mod podge trick today. Have you guys tried avery shipping labels? You can buy them in bulk of 25-150 sheets. After printing your image onto the labels, they have an extremely sticky film on the back. Just peel and roll your pen tube on the label.
 
Cholliefield said:
I've been trying to figure out exactly how to cast allumilite with an image. I recently switched to a laser jet printer and I noticed that the image is breaking apart. I cracked open the blank and found that the image smears after coming into contact with the allumilite. trying the mod podge trick today. Have you guys tried avery shipping labels? You can buy them in bulk of 25-150 sheets. After printing your image onto the labels, they have an extremely sticky film on the back. Just peel and roll your pen tube on the label.
Click to expand...

Please don't post in old finished threads. Once laid down, they don't need to be brought back up. Using the search engine is great for finding old threads for learning, but we aren't supposed to post in old threads. One can always start a new thread!
 
Sappheiros said:
Cholliefield said:
I've been trying to figure out exactly how to cast allumilite with an image. I recently switched to a laser jet printer and I noticed that the image is breaking apart. I cracked open the blank and found that the image smears after coming into contact with the allumilite. trying the mod podge trick today. Have you guys tried avery shipping labels? You can buy them in bulk of 25-150 sheets. After printing your image onto the labels, they have an extremely sticky film on the back. Just peel and roll your pen tube on the label.
Click to expand...

Please don't post in old finished threads. Once laid down, they don't need to be brought back up. Using the search engine is great for finding old threads for learning, but we aren't supposed to post in old threads. One can always start a new thread!
Click to expand...
I respectfully disagree. There's no reason not to post in an old topic. And I've never seen anything that says we aren't supposed to post in old threads. What qualifies as an old thread anyway?

Back on topic.
Is there a reason that you don't use PR for casting over labels? I use both PR and Allumilite for casting, and each has their place. Now I don't do much casting over labels, but I have done some stamps. I've always used PR for this. Mainly because I know it works for me. But I'll be interested in hearing your results after using Mod podge with Allumilite.
 
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