Universal Pen Tube Insertion Tool

Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad

calabrese55

Member
Joined
Apr 12, 2023
Messages
161
Location
Finger Lakes Region New York
Most of you folks most likely know this but I am new and yet to build my first pen.
Been tooling up to get going and saw the universal pen tube insertion tube for about $12.00 + shipping.
I had to kind of smile at the concept there are several ways of adding the tube to the blank without using this tool. Additionally the same insertion tool doubles as a pen section finishing toll / holder etc.
Here is what i plan on using, actually I have used this process not yet to turn a pen but have built about a dozen pipes , same gig just smaller.
The pics her should be clear what works for me so far, here is a hint handles to artist brushes :p.
calabrese55
IMG_2023-04-17-16-53-41-253.jpg
IMG_2023-04-17-16-53-11-299.jpg
IMG_2023-04-17-17-23-30-409.jpg
IMG_2023-04-17-17-23-24-821.jpg
 
Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
The only problem I see with that is that glue might get on the brush handle & possibly adhere to the tube. I use a piece if delrin rod that I tapered so I can use it for any size tube from 7mm to 1/2".

If it gets some glue on it, it won't adhere to the tubes & I can easily clean it with acetone.

That being said, whatever works for you is a good solution.
 
Never needed a tube inserter because you push tube in with fingers. Glue one half of tube and insert and spin around. Take it out and insert in other end of blank and now add glue to other end of tube. Use screwdriver to push tube down. Wipe ecess glue off . I always use epoxy for my tubes. Now on occasion I need to hold a tube for other reasons so I use a drift pin. Have several sizes. metal wipe off easily.
 
The only problem I see with that is that glue might get on the brush handle & possibly adhere to the tube. I use a piece if delrin rod that I tapered so I can use it for any size tube from 7mm to 1/2".

If it gets some glue on it, it won't adhere to the tubes & I can easily clean it with acetone.

That being said, whatever works for you is a good solution.
Similar solution here, but I used a scrap of HDPE that I cut off of a cheap dollar store cutting board. I tapered one end to fit into tubes, and cut a tenon on the other end to fit into a shop-made handle. Ordinary adhesives won't stick to HDPE, but it turns beautifully.

The only challenge was making the tapered plastic rod stay in the handle. My solution was to cut a couple of narrow coves in the tenon that fits into a mortise in the handle. I put a little glue into the mortise, and the act of inserting the tenon on the end of the rod into the mortise caused the glue to be squeezed such that it flowed into those coves. When it cured, the glue in the coves became ridges that mated with the coves to lock the rod in place.
 
The only problem I see with that is that glue might get on the brush handle & possibly adhere to the tube. I use a piece if delrin rod that I tapered so I can use it for any size tube from 7mm to 1/2".

If it gets some glue on it, it won't adhere to the tubes & I can easily clean it with acetone.

That being said, whatever works for you is a good solution.
"The only problem I see with that is that glue might get on the brush handle & possibly adhere to the tube".
Your comment brings a question for me please. What method do you use to keep the epoxy from entering the tube open end when installing in the blank ? For the few tubes I have installed I simply pack in some clay and clean it out later with a correctly fitting shank end of a drill bit.
Any suggestion appreciated.
calabrese55
 
When an insertion tool is used, the end of the tube that goes in first is the end that is most likely to gather adhesive as it is inserted, and it does make sense to try to block off that end to keep that from happening. And as you are inserting the plugged end of the tube, a little glue is inevitably going to transfer from the walls of the hole in the blank to the face of the plugged tube. There are many possible solutions for the plug - dental wax, modeling clay, a slice of potato, etc. Regardless of which option you choose, the plug needs to remain in place until the glue cures.

The other end of the tube has the insertion tool stuck in it which does block entry to adhesive. My experience is that I want to rotate the tube as I'm inserting it, and maybe wiggle it a bit from end to end, to make sure that the adhesive is spread over the entire length of the tube, and when I pull the insertion tool out, it is sometimes possible for a little adhesive to run back into the tube.

So after the glue has cured, there is always going to be a need for a little cleanup - either to remove that plug (which is llikely glued in place), and any residual glue that may have run into the other end of the tube.
 
I use medium CA to glue my tubes. I don't scuff the tubes & I put a lot of glue on the tube, then use an in-out & twisting motion to insert the tube.

A little glue gets into the open end, but not much. I always let the glue cure overnight (at least) before using. By then it's easy to scrape out any glue. I use the sharp end of an old barrel trimmer shaft - now that I square by sanding, it's a good use for the old metal trimmer.
 
When an insertion tool is used, the end of the tube that goes in first is the end that is most likely to gather adhesive as it is inserted, and it does make sense to try to block off that end to keep that from happening. And as you are inserting the plugged end of the tube, a little glue is inevitably going to transfer from the walls of the hole in the blank to the face of the plugged tube. There are many possible solutions for the plug - dental wax, modeling clay, a slice of potato, etc. Regardless of which option you choose, the plug needs to remain in place until the glue cures.

The other end of the tube has the insertion tool stuck in it which does block entry to adhesive. My experience is that I want to rotate the tube as I'm inserting it, and maybe wiggle it a bit from end to end, to make sure that the adhesive is spread over the entire length of the tube, and when I pull the insertion tool out, it is sometimes possible for a little adhesive to run back into the tube.

So after the glue has cured, there is always going to be a need for a little cleanup - either to remove that plug (which is llikely glued in place), and any residual glue that may have run into the other end of the tube.
Thanks for your reply. I typically use 30 minute epoxy I have tons of it for some R/C model airplane building stuff.
I am going to try of all things šŸ¤£ toilet bowl wax ring . It is quite sticky / oily at the same time. Should do a better job than the clay I am working with now just based on how it sticks to just about anything..
Thanks for your time and replay.
calabrese55
 
I use medium CA to glue my tubes. I don't scuff the tubes & I put a lot of glue on the tube, then use an in-out & twisting motion to insert the tube.

A little glue gets into the open end, but not much. I always let the glue cure overnight (at least) before using. By then it's easy to scrape out any glue. I use the sharp end of an old barrel trimmer shaft - now that I square by sanding, it's a good use for the old metal trimmer.
Thanks Edgar for your reply. I have CA glue but for some reason not really comfortable to use it to install the tubes.
Tried it but I either glue my fingers or the gloves to the blank šŸ¤¬
calabrese55
 
I bought this wax from Exotic Blanks, it works really well and comes out pretty easy.
Base Plate Wax - Pack of 5 Sheets
  • SKU DT-WAX
 
I sometimes get a little glue inside my tubes. I use a plastic flat tire plugging tool to clean the glue out. Just a little filing & presto glue is removedā€¦(picture shows a metal one but mine is actually plastic, been using the same tool for many years)
CAA1637D-1797-4091-B01B-7EF3A3FCF685.jpeg
 
I sometimes get a little glue inside my tubes. I use a plastic flat tire plugging tool to clean the glue out. Just a little filing & presto glue is removedā€¦(picture shows a metal one but mine is actually plastic, been using the same tool for many years)
View attachment 352356
neat idea I use a dental probe to effectively scrape the cured epoxy off the tube. I have used pin nail punches as insertion tools. They work well and grip tube enough to rotate on insertion.

I then made a tapered version from a scrap of HDPE I had left from making some bushes , it also works well.

I use blu tac ( white tac in USA I think ?) to plug the tube end I'm pushing into the blank. This is semi sticky so easy to get out on the probe once epoxy is cured. I was never happy with CA , even thick , for adhering tubes. If I have a blank with hairline cracks then I do soak those in CA and hope it's drawn down by capillary action.
 
I use only quality 24hr epoxy (Techniglue, with slow hardener in our tropical conditions) on pen tubes & "paddle pop sticks" from our $2 Stores as insertion tools, for epoxy mixing etc. Cheap here but those Walmart ones seem expensive. Simply trim a slight taper to the desired width for the tube dimensions. The make great cleanup tools too.

No issues with glue open time, tube positioning, or getting a good even glue spread. Cleanup is easy and less stressful too. In our conditions I'm able to glue up 20 or so tubes, accurately position them in segmented blanks, clean up any excess glue, then do a double check before the initial set / cure creates issues.

I use a paddle pop stick to remove any bulk excess glue then DNA or (Metho as we call it here) with some cotton buds to clean out any excess epoxy that may find its way into the tube/s. If you are a real Scrooge you can wipe off the sticks with DNA and reuse. :D

 
Back
Top Bottom