Turning moose and deer antler, mammoth ivory

Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
yaroslaw

yaroslaw

Member
Joined
Sep 1, 2012
Messages
344
Location
Kyiv, Ukraine
Okay, so as I've passed my 50th pen, I'm looking for some more of natural materials.

Yesterday I've got a pair of really BIG moose antlers for $12. And very nice not-so-big pair of deer antlers for $18. Can you imagine that luck?:)))
Antler was hunted, which I do not like too much, but animals were not hunted for fun or for antler - they were hunted for food near the North Pole in expedition some 20-30 years ago in Siberia.
So,

  • any hints working with antler?
  • Some precautions? Does it need some preparation, like putting in water/DNA or drying in oven?
  • What kits do best with antler (besides bullet-themed)? Fountain pen from antler? Sierra? Slims overall look "cheap" but require a lot of material.
  • How to stabilize it - I've read that buffalo horn cracks, what's with antler?
  • How to best finish it? (I'm good at CA/BLO and becoming good at WTF poly finish)


Also, on a last show (okay, it was my FIRST show actually) there was a guy that suggested trying mammoth ivory for high-end-highly-overpriced pens (like $2000 for a pen just because there are people that have such money). He said that he has a source of Siberian mammoth ivory not-so-expensive.

So actually same questions - how to work with it, how to stabilize it and keep from cracking? Also, mammoth ivory often has some cracks already, which adds character to it - how to avoid blowouts?

Thanks:)
 
Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
Not sure about your species of moose or deer but here in the middle of the US, we have White Tail deer and the antlers are very unfriendly to your lungs. The dust from the antlers has the same dangers as asbestos (little hooks that attach to your lungs and don't come out). So better safe than sorry - use a good quality respirator!

I turn a good amount of antler and the only problem I have with it is keeping my dog away from it - she loves to chew on them! When I finish it, I don't use anything but sandpaper and micromesh and follow up with wax. No need for CA, shellac or anything else.

Since yours is 30 years old, you won't have a problem with drying or cracking - some people say to wait 6 months or so but I've turned 1 month old antler without any problems so far (knock on wood). The fresher antler has nicer color but older antler still has nice color too, just not as intense.

As for kits, I like it best on fountain pens and rollerballs (Navigator, Tycoon, etc.)

You'll also have a lot of spare pieces that are too small for pens so you can work them in as segments/scallops with native woods. Very sharp looking!
 
Any of the antler, horn, ivory are not good for your lungs you can also add Bone of any kind. Work only with a good mask if you are generating any dust.
:clown:
 
:frown: Be ready for the smell of burning flesh, as antler is not bone, but skin cells. Thats why the animals can shed them evey year and they grow back the next. You can soften antlers in hot warer to straighten them some, but not realy worth the effort. When turning I try to leave a little of the dark on the blank if possable. Good Luck Jim S
 
Thanks for safety considerations!
I try to always work with dust-and-gas respirator, but it's good to know what I'm working with. I have no dust extraction in my workshop (too little space and budget), but for some irritators (like wenge) i use my usual vacuum cleaner when sanding:)

Anyway, turned moose pen just now, looks good:) But it really needs A LOT of CA to fill the pores as it is very porous inside.

1080Wayne, thanks for suggestion! Alejanders turned out to be my age, russian-speaking (as am I), same profession as me and living only 800km apart (though, in other country:). Have to visit him!:)))
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom