Turning differences between Acylic and home-made resins?

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jbswearingen

jbswearingen

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It was pointed out to me in another thread that the store-bought acrylics and home-made resins are different beasts. How different are they? Turning quality? Finish? Ease of turning? Over all cost? Which category do stabilized burls fall into?

Would you guys mind telling me your experiences with them?
 
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Made in China, Italy, India, Taiwan or my garage-- it doesn't really matter WHERE they are made (or bought). It depends on what they are made out of and the "technique" used (amount of hardener, pressure, etc.)... Some are soft, some are hard, some are brittle.
Stabilized woods are "impregnated" with a resin. When you ask what category they fall into, what do you mean? difficulty of turning? The stabilized woods (burls) that I have turned were easy to turn, but finished duller than a solid acrylic, so I usually use a CA finish for gloss...
 
So far my home casts are a bit more brittle but I really prefer to turn my own, because they are my own. Getting the "right" amount of catalyst seems to be the main issue as conditions can change altering the "Perfect" catalyst/resin ratio.


BTW I have done several home stabilization's, works well on wood that is in relatively good shape.
 
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Well Brad,

Here's the problem. I have been making pens from resins, acrylics, celluloids, lucite, and other plastics for over 15 years. This past weekend, I watched another turner (Jerry Sambrook) make pens. I learned things.

If you and I get in a room together with lots of plastic blanks and a lathe, we can learn---try to write down what it "feels" like to do something.

I know it is not the answer you want, but the right answer is buy a few from different suppliers and try them. Look on YouTube, there are several examples of how to turn various plastics, including four from me (ed4copies on youtube, as well)

After you have turned a few, I'd be happy to try to answer specific questions you may have.
 
Some store bought blanks are a pleasure to turn, some will self destruct, You need to quantify which types of commercial blanks. The differences between say Alumilite which is a Polyurethane and Silmar41 which is a Polyester is a complete different animal, and those are the resins that most of the cast at home blanks are made from.
Some blanks from the stores are pretty easy to turn and finish, some home cast blanks will make you say words the you wouldn't say in church.
Ed's Italian resins are a dream to turn, Rhino plastic is also nice and easy to turn, Some marterials like Acrylester is quite hard. in fact if your tools are not razor sharp, any acrylic is hard to turn, but just remember there are acrylics and then there are acrylics, See it's a pretty broad class, and as far as made in China Nuff said!! Where in the heck do you think a majority of the parts we use are from, I've seen blanks that literally would shatter if you dropped them on the floor. These were made in the USA.
I would be far more concerned with the sharpness of the tool and the skill of the turner than the country where the plastic was poured. but that's just my opinion!!
 
Thanks, guys. Those are all great, helpful responses. It seems the general consensus is: Try a few out and see how they feel.
 
Friends:
I have turned many pen blanks, wood, fully stablized wood, stone and different acrylics, It was not until I turned Elmostro's Alumilite that the LORD appeared!!!!!
 
They are one in the same - I have some acrylics I have bought which I wouldn't turn again ever - brittle, crummy, just plain aggravating - but on the other hand I have had the same results with mine. It is all about process and material.

PS - Don't try to cast a bunch of cut up rubber bands :rolleyes:
 
jbswearingen said:
It was pointed out to me in another thread that the store-bought acrylics and home-made resins are different beasts. How different are they? Turning quality? Finish? Ease of turning? Over all cost? Which category do stabilized burls fall into?

Would you guys mind telling me your experiences with them?
Click to expand...

Well let's see, I have never had any bad experiences from the blanks sold at various sources like Woodcraft, Rockler, Craft Supply and a few online vendors like Beartooth Woods and a place in Hawaii whose name escapes me at the moment. The only "store bought" blanks I dislike are the acrylester blanks sold at Rockler. They are brittle and I don't like turning them.

It seems that many vendors carry the same blanks as they usually have the same names so shop around for the best prices.

As far as buying "home made" blanks goes I have had the most hit or miss trouble with these. It seems like anyone who's wife can put up with the smell of polyester resin curing in the garage is making and selling blanks these days. Some know what they are doing but many don't so you can easily get stuck with some blanks that while they look nice, weren't mixed with the proper amounts of resin and catylist and will be either on the gummy side and not turn well , sand or take a shine well or be on the brittle side and give you fits to turn. Don't buy into the phrase... "use sharp tools and take light cuts and you'll be fine" because some blanks are so brittle, it doesn't matter how sharp your tools are, they'll crack and crumble on you.

That said, I would stay with established business who offer good prices on acrylic blanks or try a few from blank makers who have been making them for a while and have the bugs worked out of their formulas. Finding someone making blanks from Alumilite might be a good place to start.
 
Texatdurango said:
jbswearingen said:
It was pointed out to me in another thread that the store-bought acrylics and home-made resins are different beasts. How different are they? Turning quality? Finish? Ease of turning? Over all cost? Which category do stabilized burls fall into?

Would you guys mind telling me your experiences with them?
Click to expand...

Well let's see, I have never had any bad experiences from the blanks sold at various sources like Woodcraft, Rockler, Craft Supply and a few online vendors like Beartooth Woods and a place in Hawaii whose name escapes me at the moment. The only "store bought" blanks I dislike are the acrylester blanks sold at Rockler. They are brittle and I don't like turning them.

It seems that many vendors carry the same blanks as they usually have the same names so shop around for the best prices.

As far as buying "home made" blanks goes I have had the most hit or miss trouble with these. It seems like anyone who's wife can put up with the smell of polyester resin curing in the garage is making and selling blanks these days. Some know what they are doing but many don't so you can easily get stuck with some blanks that while they look nice, weren't mixed with the proper amounts of resin and catylist and will be either on the gummy side and not turn well , sand or take a shine well or be on the brittle side and give you fits to turn. Don't buy into the phrase... "use sharp tools and take light cuts and you'll be fine" because some blanks are so brittle, it doesn't matter how sharp your tools are, they'll crack and crumble on you.

That said, I would stay with established business who offer good prices on acrylic blanks or try a few from blank makers who have been making them for a while and have the bugs worked out of their formulas. Finding someone making blanks from Alumilite might be a good place to start.
Click to expand...


Most people think you need to be able to shave with your tools.:rolleyes:
I rarely sharpen my tools to that keen of an edge. I might swipe my tool across a diamond hone before starting, but not always.
I turn mostly my own casts, but occassionally (been a long time) turn an actual acrylic.
YMMV...
 
Texatdurango said:
Well let's see, I have never had any bad experiences from the blanks sold at various sources like Woodcraft, Rockler, Craft Supply and a few online vendors like Beartooth Woods and a place in Hawaii whose name escapes me at the moment. The only "store bought" blanks I dislike are the acrylester blanks sold at Rockler. They are brittle and I don't like turning them.

It seems that many vendors carry the same blanks as they usually have the same names so shop around for the best prices.

As far as buying "home made" blanks goes I have had the most hit or miss trouble with these. It seems like anyone who's wife can put up with the smell of polyester resin curing in the garage is making and selling blanks these days. Some know what they are doing but many don't so you can easily get stuck with some blanks that while they look nice, weren't mixed with the proper amounts of resin and catylist and will be either on the gummy side and not turn well , sand or take a shine well or be on the brittle side and give you fits to turn. Don't buy into the phrase... "use sharp tools and take light cuts and you'll be fine" because some blanks are so brittle, it doesn't matter how sharp your tools are, they'll crack and crumble on you.

That said, I would stay with established business who offer good prices on acrylic blanks or try a few from blank makers who have been making them for a while and have the bugs worked out of their formulas. Finding someone making blanks from Alumilite might be a good place to start.
Click to expand...


If I go the home-brewed route I'll mix up my own--I have access to very accurate scales at work so mixing the proper ratios won't be an issue. Then again, I'm assuming you're supposed to weigh the resin and catalyst before mixing? It's how we mix up the epoxies we use.
 
jbswearingen said:
Texatdurango said:
Well let's see, I have never had any bad experiences from the blanks sold at various sources like Woodcraft, Rockler, Craft Supply and a few online vendors like Beartooth Woods and a place in Hawaii whose name escapes me at the moment. The only "store bought" blanks I dislike are the acrylester blanks sold at Rockler. They are brittle and I don't like turning them.

It seems that many vendors carry the same blanks as they usually have the same names so shop around for the best prices.

As far as buying "home made" blanks goes I have had the most hit or miss trouble with these. It seems like anyone who's wife can put up with the smell of polyester resin curing in the garage is making and selling blanks these days. Some know what they are doing but many don't so you can easily get stuck with some blanks that while they look nice, weren't mixed with the proper amounts of resin and catylist and will be either on the gummy side and not turn well , sand or take a shine well or be on the brittle side and give you fits to turn. Don't buy into the phrase... "use sharp tools and take light cuts and you'll be fine" because some blanks are so brittle, it doesn't matter how sharp your tools are, they'll crack and crumble on you.

That said, I would stay with established business who offer good prices on acrylic blanks or try a few from blank makers who have been making them for a while and have the bugs worked out of their formulas. Finding someone making blanks from Alumilite might be a good place to start.
Click to expand...


If I go the home-brewed route I'll mix up my own--I have access to very accurate scales at work so mixing the proper ratios won't be an issue. Then again, I'm assuming you're supposed to weigh the resin and catalyst before mixing? It's how we mix up the epoxies we use.
Click to expand...

Don't assume. PR is measured by volume if you think that will work. When working with PR, you have to consider all of the variables.
Epoxy is completely different.
 
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